FW1A Pro - replacing emitter for more throw

Put an osram in it! That's what I'm going to do once I buy one again lol

i thought throw was more about the reflector, than the driver/LED

I think that for turbo is better to go with 2mm2 osram. 1mm2 tops out around 4A-5A.

So to confirm again, the original driver for XHP50.2 in the FW1A Pro works if i swap in a SFT40 or CULPM1 mcpcb? Or do I need to swap the correct driver as well?

I read you were having trouble finding CULPM1, Here is the link on Convoys store,

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001352708356.html

Either one will work. CULPM1 will have to be bought on mcpcb and make sure to ask Simon for proper led gasket

Ok Thanks!

I have done it.
FW1A Pro with CULPM1.
Now waiting for the smooth reflector to arrive.
The original mcpcb is 3mm thick.
So i double stack a bare mcpcb below the CULPM1 mcpcb, both 1.5mm.
Btw, the original body is from the stainless steel FW3A/FW3S.
P/S…I had to file the edges of the 20mm CULPM1 mcpcb as the original diameter of the mcpcb is 19mm





Yes, definitely better throw than original XHP50.
I have no idea why they designed it like that.
I put a whole lot of thermal paste to fill up the gaps.

Just to check, does the bottom of the original MCPCB have channels to accommodate the wires? I’m struggling to believe it just sits on top of the wires.

What smooth reflector are you planning on using?

A key factor is the surface intensity of the LED, the more intensity the more throw there is.
If you have 2 LEDs with the same total brightness (total lumens output) and one has half the emitting surface area of the other it will have more intensity, more brightness/lumens per area, and will have more throw as a result.

If you have a bright LED with a large surface area and a less bright LED with a smaller surface area that happen to have the same intensity they will throw the same but the larger LED will give a larger hotspot.

The driver comes into play by providing enough power to the LED for it to run correctly, brighter an LED the more throw there is. Sometimes an LED is underdriven so doesn’t reach it’s full potential but an LED can also be overdriven and can lose brightness as a result.

That’s a stainless steel head, it never had a single MCPCB, they’re all triples.

I’m confused by this, from what i’ve seen the FW1A PRO is sold with a single emitter, the XHP50.2 pictured above, and stainless steel will provide some heat transfer through the body to the outside air, not as much as aluminium or copper but certainly more if the MCPCB touches than the shelf than if it doesn’t.

EDIT - It’s entirely possible my confusion is down to me not realising that body means head as well, and not just body as i assumed:

I think that’s the situation. But, I agree it would be better, even with stainless, to get the MCPCB resting on the shelf.

Unfortunately, yes, that’s how it is. Can’t do anything about it.

Getting a reflector from FW1A. It’s a smooth reflector.

Sorry, i meant the head.
It would be perfect if the wires had a channel to run through and the mcpcb sits flat inside the head.
But it still managed to dissipate enough heat through the head after i added more thermal paste into the gap where the wires are.

I’m shocked it came out the factory like that.
As a thought, as you’ve double stacked the MCPCBs for the right height you could possible add another that has been cut in half and trimmed in the middle so it each piece sits flush on the shelf either side of the wires, that would give some direct transfer to the shelf, and if it’s the same height as the wires it wouldn’t affect height.

Nice one for changing the LED though, let us know what you think of the new throw :slight_smile:

I agree, adding another mcpcb with trimmed slots for the wires would be the ideal solution.
But unfortunately i dont have the right tools to do that, and lazy too…lol
I’ll have to wait for the smooth reflector to know the final outcome of the throw.
Will update then.

How about drilling holes in the shelf for the wires in normal positions? I did this years ago on my original FW3A that I converted to a FW1A before they ever existed.