Does anyone know if the extra spare parts (additional o-rings, button cap, USB connector cap) are included in the normal (“without-battery”) option? Or only with the “with-battery” option?
My first one was ordered w/o cells and came with the spares you asked about. That was from the first batch but I don’t see any reason that would change as other lights I have purchased w/o cells have included the spares as well.
I will, sooner or later Ordered one last Friday. BTW, I also asked Sofirn some technical questions prior to making the purchase. Which they answered quite promptly:
Is it possible to use the power-bank function while the lantern is lit? >> yes
Is it possible to charge the lantern, while it is lit? >> yes
Is it possible to operate the lantern directly from an external (Type-C) power source, while no batteries are installed? >> yes
Is maximum brightness (maximum LED-driving current) achievable in any of the above scenarios? >> yes
If those replies are accurate, it is pretty damn impressive. (Although I admit, I am not sure how I should interpret the answer of “yes” to the 4th question: “yes, in all of them” vs. “yes, in some of them” ) I guess I’ll have to wait and see.
Do I remember correctly that flat top NCR18650GAs are also suitable for this lantern (i.e. it is not necessary to go for its less common and more expensive button-top counterpart)?
(Because the flat NCR18650GAs also have a slight “bump” at their positive contact.)
Do you know of any reliable sellers with reasonable prices in the EU? Unfortunately NKON.nl don’t seem to have either variant in stock now
Has anyone asked Sofirn if they are willing to provide the new driver board, with power bank function, for someone who already has the LT1, to replace the old one?
These appear to be the ‘older’ models that don’t have the power bank function.
Yeah, but Sofirn has been offering to email a coupon code to BLFers for an even better price, $62.24 including batteries, for most of this month. linky
Do I remember correctly that flat top NCR18650GAs are also suitable for this lantern (
You need button top, or the battery fouls components on the driver board as I recall, details are in the thread already if you use thread search (I know what you mean about the NCR bump but I think it would still catch)
Do I remember correctly that flat top NCR18650GAs are also suitable for this lantern (
You need button top, or the battery fouls components on the driver board as I recall, details are in the thread already if you use thread search (I know what you mean about the NCR bump but I think it would still catch)
I can use flat top batteries (Panny 18650B’s, 30Q’s, and various laptop pulls) in my 3 LT’s (part of the original buy) without any issues. It probably comes down to manufacturing tolerances on the LT’s.
It probably comes down to manufacturing tolerances on the LT’s.
Not really. It depends on the height of the positive terminal above the wrapper.
It’s more of an issue of the top of the wrappers snagging on the POT (inside of the copper ring). It’s useless and can be removed as several people have done with their LT’s.
I suppose the wrappers can also be damaged if the copper ring has burs on it but those can be sanded out if need be.
The tops of the POT on my LT’s are low enough that they don’t snag on and damage the wrappers on my cells.
Makes sense. To be honest, in my mind, I was focusing on just the copper ring itself, and totally forgot there were other components installed on the bottom side of the PCB.
With the new (power-bank equipped) variant I ordered, I guess I’ll only be able to determine compatibility once I get my hands on it and see what the layout of the new driver looks like.
Removing unused components is not an issue for me. I know my way around soldering/rework stations. But if in the new version, there are vital components moved to the bottom, which are in the way, that’s another story…
It might be helpful if someone could share a photo, or 3D model of the new driver. If anyone from the BLF “project team” is still involved, that is… Is Lexel still around?
Do I remember correctly that flat top NCR18650GAs are also suitable for this lantern (
You need button top, or the battery fouls components on the driver board as I recall, details are in the thread already if you use thread search (I know what you mean about the NCR bump but I think it would still catch)
I can use flat top batteries (Panny 18650B’s, 30Q’s, and various laptop pulls) in my 3 LT’s (part of the original buy) without any issues. It probably comes down to manufacturing tolerances on the LT’s.
Just to add info re flat-top NCR18650GA’s = these are actually “raised flat-top”, and will work properly.
Regarding Samsung flat-tops though (30Q, 35E), I’ve notice sometimes these 18650s may be slightly recessed, and if the spring on the body tube is not so good anymore, there may be uneven contact of the Samsung flat-tops (which appear to be slightly recessed compared to other flat-tops like Sony VTC, which are very very slightly raised flat-top). Have also tested using genuine LG HG2 which works well on the LT1.
But as mentioned something raised (eg. “flat-top NCR18650GA) or button-top probably will make better and more uniform contact.
Do I remember correctly that flat top NCR18650GAs are also suitable for this lantern (
You need button top, or the battery fouls components on the driver board as I recall, details are in the thread already if you use thread search (I know what you mean about the NCR bump but I think it would still catch)
I can use flat top batteries (Panny 18650B’s, 30Q’s, and various laptop pulls) in my 3 LT’s (part of the original buy) without any issues. It probably comes down to manufacturing tolerances on the LT’s.
Just to add info re flat-top NCR18650GA’s = these are actually “raised flat-top”, and will work properly.
Regarding Samsung flat-tops though (30Q, 35E), I’ve notice sometimes these 18650s may be slightly recessed, and if the spring on the body tube is not so good anymore, there may be uneven contact of the Samsung flat-tops (which appear to be slightly recessed compared to other flat-tops like Sony VTC, which are very very slightly raised flat-top). Have also tested using genuine LG HG2 which works well on the LT1.
But as mentioned something raised (eg. “flat-top NCR18650GA) or button-top probably will make better and more uniform contact.
Do the size and posistion of the two screws (holding the driver PCB in place) not cause any problems when using GA’s or similar “raised flat-top” cells? The screw heads seem exactly as tall as the copper ring itself and are rather close to it. And if it were possible for the “bump” of the positive terminal (which is quite wide for the GA’s) to touch them, it could cause a lovely short, since they are at GND potential. Are they far enough from the ring to prevent something like this from happening?
Someone on Reddit took photos of the new LT1 with power bank functionality (there's also now photos of the driver which is quite nice). Looks like they removed the solder jumpers from the bottom of the driver, so I'm going to assume they run 7x 7135 by default now? That'd make lowest mode quite a bit brighter I'd imagine.
Someone on Reddit took photos of the new LT1 with power bank functionality (there’s also now photos of the driver which is quite nice). Looks like they removed the solder jumpers from the bottom of the driver, so I’m going to assume they run 7× 7135 by default now? That’d make lowest mode quite a bit brighter I’d imagine.
Someone on Reddit took photos of the new LT1 with power bank functionality (there's also now photos of the driver which is quite nice). Looks like they removed the solder jumpers from the bottom of the driver, so I'm going to assume they run 7x 7135 by default now? That'd make lowest mode quite a bit brighter I'd imagine.
They have arranged the flashing pads in a circular pattern with varying distance and removed the labels. Neat. Now they are absolutely useless.
omg I didn't even really actively notice before. I did see 8 pads and thought to myself "well, guess we'll have to guess the pinout now" but I didn't even think about pad spacing. That's so annoying. Like, you'd think whoever sits in china designing these drivers is an electronics engineer and understands what these are for. But no, as so often features just get copied over or "improved upon" but also slightly altered in the process, which breaks them due to not a single thought being put into them. Sometimes (not limited to electronics) I really wonder if the people who do these things even understand what they're replicating. Annoying, ngl. Sorry for the rant.
For your information: The final UI diagram for Andúril 2 on Sofirn’s new LT1
Great job!
Only one minor issue:
The trigger action (7C) is missing from the transition line going from state [OFF] to state [Brightness of AUX / Button LEDs in Standby] in the Advanced UI section.
Also, on my unit, the advanced UI was enabled out-of-the-box. Not sure if it was a one-off production anomaly or an intentional, generic change, though. In any case, your manual says “default UI==simple UI”, so I thought it might be worth mentioning.
For your information: The final UI diagram for Andúril 2 on Sofirn's new LT1
Great job! Only one minor issue: The trigger action (7C) is missing from the transition line going from state [OFF] to state [Brightness of AUX / Button LEDs in Standby] in the Advanced UI section. Also, on my unit, the advanced UI was enabled out-of-the-box. Not sure if it was a one-off production anomaly or an intentional, generic change, though. In any case, your manual says "default UI==simple UI", so I thought it might be worth mentioning.
Oh shoot…thanks for telling me. That „7C“ must have disappeared accidentally. I just removed the „default UI“ part to avoid any confusion.
It looks like the new driver not only has nonsense firmware update pads, but also no solder pads to enable the extra chips. Does that mean all chips are active from the factory? This would mean the light will need thermal regulation and stepping down etc, which may be a problem with no thermal calibration in the firmware. Or does it mean the extra, inactive chips were removed and are no longer an option in this driver?
I “accidentally” bought one of the new ones, order a second LT1 in orange and was surprised when manual mentioned power bank and that it has a new driver when I opened it.
As noted already, no pads to control output.
Programming pads are totally messed up, I have oshpark pcb with pogo pins and had no idea I was getting an LT1 I could not program
UK comment: Ali steals the tax! They charge the VAT citing Brexit but under declare the value on shipping and don’t pay the tax. I prefer the old way where no one pays the VAT…
Does anyone know if the extra spare parts (additional o-rings, button cap, USB connector cap) are included in the normal (“without-battery”) option? Or only with the “with-battery” option?
My first one was ordered w/o cells and came with the spares you asked about. That was from the first batch but I don’t see any reason that would change as other lights I have purchased w/o cells have included the spares as well.
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Does anyone know when sofirn might restock the colours?
Anyone tried the new board with power out?
I will, sooner or later
BTW, I also asked Sofirn some technical questions prior to making the purchase. Which they answered quite promptly:
If those replies are accurate, it is pretty damn impressive. (Although I admit, I am not sure how I should interpret the answer of “yes” to the 4th question: “yes, in all of them” vs. “yes, in some of them”
) I guess I’ll have to wait and see.
Amazon has some Prime Day deals on the LT1 in green, brown, and orange.
Price is about $66 with batteries, before tax.
These appear to be the ‘older’ models that don’t have the power bank function.
Do I remember correctly that flat top NCR18650GAs are also suitable for this lantern (i.e. it is not necessary to go for its less common and more expensive button-top counterpart)?
(Because the flat NCR18650GAs also have a slight “bump” at their positive contact.)
Do you know of any reliable sellers with reasonable prices in the EU? Unfortunately NKON.nl don’t seem to have either variant in stock now
Has anyone asked Sofirn if they are willing to provide the new driver board, with power bank function, for someone who already has the LT1, to replace the old one?
Yeah, but Sofirn has been offering to email a coupon code to BLFers for an even better price, $62.24 including batteries, for most of this month. linky
== We save the planet from darkness ==
Looks like they’re offering an Amazon code that brings the price down to $61.03 with batteries, more info in this thread.
It sounds like they will also honor the price for the new colors, according to their recent replies in that thread.
They sent me a code for an orange one.
You need button top, or the battery fouls components on the driver board as I recall, details are in the thread already if you use thread search (I know what you mean about the NCR bump but I think it would still catch)
Can anyone verify if these have the power bank feature?
Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience
A little John Prine
I can use flat top batteries (Panny 18650B’s, 30Q’s, and various laptop pulls) in my 3 LT’s (part of the original buy) without any issues. It probably comes down to manufacturing tolerances on the LT’s.
Not really. It depends on the height of the positive terminal above the wrapper.
It’s more of an issue of the top of the wrappers snagging on the POT (inside of the copper ring). It’s useless and can be removed as several people have done with their LT’s.
I suppose the wrappers can also be damaged if the copper ring has burs on it but those can be sanded out if need be.
The tops of the POT on my LT’s are low enough that they don’t snag on and damage the wrappers on my cells.
Makes sense. To be honest, in my mind, I was focusing on just the copper ring itself, and totally forgot there were other components installed on the bottom side of the PCB.
With the new (power-bank equipped) variant I ordered, I guess I’ll only be able to determine compatibility once I get my hands on it and see what the layout of the new driver looks like.
Removing unused components is not an issue for me. I know my way around soldering/rework stations. But if in the new version, there are vital components moved to the bottom, which are in the way, that’s another story…
It might be helpful if someone could share a photo, or 3D model of the new driver. If anyone from the BLF “project team” is still involved, that is… Is Lexel still around?
Just to add info re flat-top NCR18650GA’s = these are actually “raised flat-top”, and will work properly.
Regarding Samsung flat-tops though (30Q, 35E), I’ve notice sometimes these 18650s may be slightly recessed, and if the spring on the body tube is not so good anymore, there may be uneven contact of the Samsung flat-tops (which appear to be slightly recessed compared to other flat-tops like Sony VTC, which are very very slightly raised flat-top). Have also tested using genuine LG HG2 which works well on the LT1.
But as mentioned something raised (eg. “flat-top NCR18650GA) or button-top probably will make better and more uniform contact.
https://sofirnlight.com/products/new-version-blf-lt1-lantern-with-anduri...
Orange in new version is available now!
New version uses Anduril 2.0 and charges your devices via 5V 2A (max 3A according to your devices.)
My new Facebook account: https://www.facebook.com/barry.dong.9250
Still waiting for Green ~~~~~~~~
Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience
A little John Prine
Do the size and posistion of the two screws (holding the driver PCB in place) not cause any problems when using GA’s or similar “raised flat-top” cells? The screw heads seem exactly as tall as the copper ring itself and are rather close to it. And if it were possible for the “bump” of the positive terminal (which is quite wide for the GA’s) to touch them, it could cause a lovely short, since they are at GND potential. Are they far enough from the ring to prevent something like this from happening?
Someone on Reddit took photos of the new LT1 with power bank functionality (there's also now photos of the driver which is quite nice). Looks like they removed the solder jumpers from the bottom of the driver, so I'm going to assume they run 7x 7135 by default now? That'd make lowest mode quite a bit brighter I'd imagine.
https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/oaj762/nld_blf_lt1_powerbank_edition/
They have arranged the flashing pads in a circular pattern with varying distance and removed the labels. Neat. Now they are absolutely useless.
omg
I didn't even really actively notice before. I did see 8 pads and thought to myself "well, guess we'll have to guess the pinout now" but I didn't even think about pad spacing. That's so annoying. Like, you'd think whoever sits in china designing these drivers is an electronics engineer and understands what these are for. But no, as so often features just get copied over or "improved upon" but also slightly altered in the process, which breaks them due to not a single thought being put into them. Sometimes (not limited to electronics) I really wonder if the people who do these things even understand what they're replicating. Annoying, ngl. Sorry for the rant.
In my opinion, they should include the proper pogo pin adapter to flash new firmwares to the driver. Minimal cost for them, huge convenience for us.
For your information: The final UI diagram for Andúril 2 on Sofirn's new LT1
Very nice! Thank you.
If I may suggest something, it looks like you have some space there to explain voltage calibration.
Great job!
Only one minor issue:
The trigger action (7C) is missing from the transition line going from state [OFF] to state [Brightness of AUX / Button LEDs in Standby] in the Advanced UI section.
Also, on my unit, the advanced UI was enabled out-of-the-box. Not sure if it was a one-off production anomaly or an intentional, generic change, though. In any case, your manual says “default UI==simple UI”, so I thought it might be worth mentioning.
Oh shoot…thanks for telling me. That „7C“ must have disappeared accidentally. I just removed the „default UI“ part to avoid any confusion.
UI diagram is updated, now.
It looks like the new driver not only has nonsense firmware update pads, but also no solder pads to enable the extra chips. Does that mean all chips are active from the factory? This would mean the light will need thermal regulation and stepping down etc, which may be a problem with no thermal calibration in the firmware. Or does it mean the extra, inactive chips were removed and are no longer an option in this driver?
I “accidentally” bought one of the new ones, order a second LT1 in orange and was surprised when manual mentioned power bank and that it has a new driver when I opened it.
As noted already, no pads to control output.
Programming pads are totally messed up, I have oshpark pcb with pogo pins and had no idea I was getting an LT1 I could not program
UK comment: Ali steals the tax! They charge the VAT citing Brexit but under declare the value on shipping and don’t pay the tax. I prefer the old way where no one pays the VAT…
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