regards Xandre
Need an account to see this.
Handy torch site….not. Even with setting the default settings from German to English site translation, it still presents as German!!!
Anyway once signed up the link still doesn’t allow access.
There’s 20min of my life I wont ever get back 
Vunderbar
I should have told you 
.
Keine Ahnung, was los ist, Xandre, aber ich sehe das auch nicht.
Ich wünschte ich wüsste was los ist!!!..aber leider ist mein Deutsch so gut wie mein Swahili
Swapping L21A’s Sst40 with Sft40, sanded down the top of the emitter gasket, and modding the driver to 8A.
Sorry the album was privat,
now it works ?
Yep.
Now that’s a head. How many cd?
We hope over 54 MCD
to get on the top.
Regards Xandre
Holy crap!
That flashlight head is huge.
is it high cri? 
I could not agree more. They will get dropped and that thin aluminum is not very strong. My EDC FW3’s and FW1’s all have them.
[presumably from thinwall Al tubing of the S11C?]
“Doc, it hurts when I do this…”
“So don’t do that.”
There’s always a price to pay. You want lightweight, you gotta have less metal. You want sturdy, you need more metal.
I got a Xeno E03 which takes 14500/AA, but is almost the size/weight of a compact 18650 light. The walls are so thick, it even has “finger-grooves” milled into the side for better grip. That’s thick. And it’s heavy.
With the S11C, you slip that into your pocket and it almost disappears because it’s so light. Some people value that vs being able to baton a killin’ knife into a log with your flashlight without damage.
It just depends on what you want.
Lightbringer, I mostly agree. But, weight is not the issue. I like the little bit of sturdy protection on the front end of the light to protect my investment, after all they always hit the ground nose first. The FWAA is borderline underpowered for an EDC, but some days in some pants if fits well. Otherwise I am normally going to carry an 18650 light.
Maybe it’s just me, but the only time I ever dropped a light was when I had my MH20 precariously balanced on my bike’s seat when poking around in the dark.
I try to not drop my lights, like, ever. 
Some are tools, some are shelf queens and some are in between. I don’t try to, but it does happen. I work around gensets, mechanical vaults and data centers… crap happens.
That may be true, but sometimes your cat(s) help sweep them off the table onto the floor.
Actually it was on a sort of pile of papers and mail that I didn’t get to yet, and that was off a coffee-table, so total drop was a paltry 8” or so.
Work-lights, absolutely, you need rugged. That’s why you’d pick Snap-On vs JiffyTool.
But for the average schmo who wants a light light (ha!), the S11C would be great.
Sofirn IF25 clip mod inspired by M2R clip mod (S2+ clip also fits D4. )
The mod takes basically the same method as M2R mod with a rotary tool / grinder to make the bezel slimmer fit.
Sofirn SP35/IF25 clip, Convoy S2+ Clip, Emisar D4 clip
Modded IF25 clip (2.80mm) vs Unmodified IF25 Clip (5mm)
Perfect on S2+ and D4v2, (The M2R is deeper than IF25 clip but it’s few extra dollars more)
So my curse may have been broken. As of late some of my mod endeavours have failed, but alas I have vanquished by perseverance.
Some time ago I purchased an Amutorch YooToo SD3 that I wanted to upgrade with an SST 70. My first attempt was partially successful but the reflector shorted the leads to the MCPCB. Tried to salvage the driver but ended up with a mess of components that had partially unsoldered and slid around. The second driver was a dud right from the start. Never worked but as I may have done something to it, took the fall and re-ordered a 3rd. Yesterday this one landed in my mailbox and it tested OK.
Then onto some mechanical changes as the cavity of the SD03 is rather shallow so I made an extension ring with a seat adapter of 24 to 22 mm. (on the left the LHT ‘dud’)
Had to replace the solid brass button with a spring. Simon’s driver is more compact (using both sides of the board) and the overall battery cavity is only some 71 mm. After all was done, the driver no longer stayed ON but would flicker and turn OFF. Thinking some brass dust may have gotten caught under a component (I had to use a grinding disc with a rotary tool to cut the button, unknowingly this was just surface mounted).
After multiple cleanings and some detailed inspection, I nicked a few components and traces.
But the driver is still in working condition so I set out to troubleshoot the culprit. It turns out the adapter that I made was not making proper contact along the outside ring of the driver. A bit of solder did the trick. Convoy’s are cleaned with a bevel whilst LHT’s are snapped off the array leaving a sharp edge.
Tonight I’m taking it out for a few beam shots and comparisons to its siblings, the SD1 w/ SST 20 and the SD2 w/ SST 40.
Preliminary tests give me some 2700 lumens. My lightbox will have to be rectified as throwers give lower values than blasters. I believe the concentrated beam is partially absorbed by the styrofoam (it glows throughout!) and maybe a couple of coats of neutral white paint could solve the discrepancy. I also set aside a larger aluminized bubble-wrapped cardboard box, the type used for food deliveries. That may be the better solution.