BLF LT1 Firmware update to Anduril2 failed - help needed! - SOLVED.

17 posts / 0 new
Last post
pol77
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 59 min ago
Joined: 02/21/2019 - 07:54
Posts: 420
Location: London
BLF LT1 Firmware update to Anduril2 failed - help needed! - SOLVED.

I was trying to update my BLF LT1 to Anduril2 using Hank’s programmer with a chip clamp attached. The configuration is tried and working, as I had just updated a Lumintop X9L Copper to Anduril2, using the exact same equipment.

I am using an Android phone with the ZFlasher AVR application, which has never failed my so far.

I first read the existing firmware and saved it fine. Then tried to write the Anduril2 firmware and the operation completed with errors (ie the verification failed). I have tried many times, both with the firmware I saved and the new Anduril 2 firmware but I always get the same result.

Any ideas?

I thought that maybe I would need to desolder some of the leads that go to the MCPCB, as I have heard is needed with the secondaries of the Fireflies E07 for instance, but the driver of the LT1 has pads on the exposed side for firmware updates and some people have successfully updated it that way. Is there a possibility updating will work using those pads but not a chip clamp directly on the AT85?

It may be helpful to note that the log indicated that the 1st verification mismatch is at byte 0×0000. It is as if the chip is write protected somehow. Is that possible? Does it have anything to do with the fuses or lock bits I see on a separate tab on the ZFlasher AVR?

Edited by: pol77 on 07/02/2021 - 09:08
mattlward
mattlward's picture
Offline
Last seen: 20 hours 58 min ago
Joined: 06/19/2015 - 09:20
Posts: 3239
Location: Illinois, USA

TK will know, but yes maybe a fuse thing.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k

flightless22
flightless22's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 17 min ago
Joined: 11/19/2018 - 12:07
Posts: 559
Location: California

Maybe the contacts are dirty? The clip can be really finicky. I never used zflasher because apparently my phone usb port is too low voltage or something.

About the flashing pad. I used HQ ProgKey. I also have Lexels prog key The one by Lexel is officially designed for his drivers (LT1, etc). Either one should work but you have assemble them yourself.

pol77
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 59 min ago
Joined: 02/21/2019 - 07:54
Posts: 420
Location: London

flightless22 wrote:
Maybe the contacts are dirty? The clip can be really finicky. I never used zflasher because apparently my phone usb port is too low voltage or something.

About the flashing pad. I used HQ ProgKey. I also have Lexels prog key The one by Lexel is officially designed for his drivers (LT1, etc). Either one should work but you have assemble them yourself.

The exact same chip on the X9L worked first time. I did the 2 lights in a row, with minutes between them, so I do not expect my clamp got oxidized or anything like that.

In any case, I cleaned the chip and clamp with IPA and it is still the same. The behaviour seems to indicate some kind of write protection…

pol77
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 59 min ago
Joined: 02/21/2019 - 07:54
Posts: 420
Location: London

Is it possible that I just got a faulty chip? Now it will not be detected at all. I tried flashing an AT85 on a FW3A driver and it worked fine.

I guess I need a new driver, if I can get it off Sofirn. Or, worst case scenario, an AT85 chip to replace on the driver.

HKSJOSHUA_
HKSJOSHUA_'s picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 months 5 days ago
Joined: 06/28/2019 - 01:25
Posts: 127
Location: OKC

Is andruil 2 worth the trouble of getting programming cable and misc. I would hate to ruin my emisar’s and newly acquired Copper X9L?

Appreciate all the little things in life!

pol77
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 59 min ago
Joined: 02/21/2019 - 07:54
Posts: 420
Location: London
HKSJOSHUA_ wrote:
Is andruil 2 worth the trouble of getting programming cable and misc. I would hate to ruin my emisar’s and newly acquired Copper X9L?

The emissars are easily programmable with the kit Hank sells, I have programmed many, with no issues.
To program my copper X9L, I used Hank’s programmer, a chip clamp and jumper cables. I had to desolder the wires off the MCPCB and remove the driver to reveal the AT85 chip and put the clamp on it. It all worked beautifully.

The LT1, not so much.

Then I programmed an FW3A driver with the clamp, just to check, and it worked fine.

Bottom line, if you feel comfortable desoldering, do it. If you do not, still do Hank’s lights, with his kit.

HKSJOSHUA_
HKSJOSHUA_'s picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 months 5 days ago
Joined: 06/28/2019 - 01:25
Posts: 127
Location: OKC

Hmm good to know I definitely will not touch my Blf LT1 I think it kicks ass with samsung 35E batteries. Btw what cells do you use for your X9L? I use two 40T batts and a imren 3750 mah batt that works great also.

Appreciate all the little things in life!

pol77
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 59 min ago
Joined: 02/21/2019 - 07:54
Posts: 420
Location: London

With the X9L, I use a Molicel P42A.

HKSJOSHUA_
HKSJOSHUA_'s picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 months 5 days ago
Joined: 06/28/2019 - 01:25
Posts: 127
Location: OKC

Sweet!

Appreciate all the little things in life!

SammysHP
SammysHP's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 48 min ago
Joined: 06/25/2019 - 14:35
Posts: 1041
Location: Germany

I have no problems programming my LT1 via its pads. You could try it with a computer, maybe it’s really the output of your phone. Also have you tried programming it with 3.3 V instead of 5 V or vice versa?

pol77
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 59 min ago
Joined: 02/21/2019 - 07:54
Posts: 420
Location: London

Now the chip will not be identified at all. I even installed the software on a computer and tried.

The 3.3V and 5V is new to me, I just use the programmer the way it came. Is it a jumper change?

SammysHP
SammysHP's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 48 min ago
Joined: 06/25/2019 - 14:35
Posts: 1041
Location: Germany

pol77 wrote:
The 3.3V and 5V is new to me, I just use the programmer the way it came. Is it a jumper change?

Yes, move the yellow jumper one pin to the right (towards the ribbon cable) to select 5 V.

And check all connections again (and again – they can fail erratically).

pol77
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 59 min ago
Joined: 02/21/2019 - 07:54
Posts: 420
Location: London

SammysHP wrote:
pol77 wrote:
The 3.3V and 5V is new to me, I just use the programmer the way it came. Is it a jumper change?

Yes, move the yellow jumper one pin to the right (towards the ribbon cable) to select 5 V.

And check all connections again (and again – they can fail erratically).

Thank you!

The connections are fine, I checked and programmed other drivers with the same setup. I will try the 5V option tomorrow. I have ordered an AT85 chip and I will try replacing it on the driver.

pol77
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 59 min ago
Joined: 02/21/2019 - 07:54
Posts: 420
Location: London

The AT85 chip arrived. I programmed it with Anduril2 and soldered it onto the driver. Everything is working fine now.

So, it is verified that the problem was due to a faulty AT85 chip that came on the driver.

gchart
gchart's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 17 min ago
Joined: 03/19/2016 - 11:57
Posts: 3176
Location: Central IL

Great to hear it’s working fine. Like SammysHP, I had no problems flashing mine to Anduril2 using the programming pads.

Is it possible that you hooked up the clip backwards once? It’s easy enough to do, though I’m not sure if that would fry the chip.

pol77
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 59 min ago
Joined: 02/21/2019 - 07:54
Posts: 420
Location: London

I am quite certain I did not. Besides, it was misbehaving from the start. It would “write” but the verification was always wrong. Then it stopped working.