Basically you can think of cells in two groups as far as "matching" one to a light...and really that's not often a huge issue with decent cells.
Low/Standard drain: These cells have magic jelly inside that gives them a higher mAh rating so they store more juice and can give longer run times, apples to apples. The tradeoff is that they can only handle so much heat (current draw) and these days that's usually at least 8 amps or so, and the vast majority of lights are still in the 1.5 to 6 amp range, so these cells are just fine. If you put a standard cell like this into a powerhouse light that pulls 10 amps or whatever, then at a minimum there's going to be so much heat buildup and performance loss that you'll be unhappy...and there may be other issues with the battery itself or the components on the driver, etc, maybe even the springs in the light.
High drain: The magic jelly in these is slightly different and allows them to withstand the heat of much higher currents running through them, but their tradeoff is that they don't store as much, so even with lower currents they have shorter run times. These will generally be at least a 15 amp rating but can be double that or more. We talk about those ratings with their "continuous drain" rating...what they can run at all the time and be happy. They also have a "pulse rating", which is much higher and meant to convey what they can handle for brief bursts, like turbo mode or vaping or a "max" setting on a vacuum, etc. You can put a high drain cell in any normal lower performing light, you'll just have shorter run times.
Then you can have added protection circuits to any of these cells. Generally not necessary - if your light doesn't have any protection built in to the electronics then you just don't pull an oops and leave the thing turned on unattended to where the battery drains alllll the way down. Otherwise you're good. These protection circuits (can be read about and seen in photos in the above links) are tacked on to the standard as-manufactured cell by the companies that sell them. Usually a tiny circuit board on the negative end, a conductor that runs up the side to the positive end, and another cap there...then it's all sealed up in a second plastic shrink wrap on top of the original manufacturer's shrink wrap. Depending on the maker and the cell size/circuit choice, this added protection extends the cell length by 3mm-8mm or so. Sometimes that added length is a problem for some light designs and you have to use plain normal factory cells in those (or explore modding avenues to let longer cells fit). The current drain on protected cells is almost always lower than the factory cells...again, that just depends on things, and these days the current rating for some protected cells is a lot higher than it used to be, which is great if you want protection for whatever reason. They also cost more and you're limited in choices.
So unless you have a high drain light that's really pushing the lumens for the included components, standard cells will often be a fine choice. If your light needs high drain cells, then pick up a couple for the collection. I would stay away from the cells with on-board charging. I've only had a few of them and they're so-so, but all of them had lower mAh and two of them failed (charging circuit...cell was ok). To make room for the charging components you necessarily have to reduce the height of the cell if you want to stay in standard dimensions...thus less magic jelly inside to work with. They can be convenient, though, and in emergency times you can just use some other juice pack to charge them up whereas a normal charger will require electricity (unless it will take a 12v DC car adapter).
So...look at the specs for the light(s) you want and look up reviews here that provide real life testing with numbers. If it turns out your light wants 10 amps then be sure you have a cell that will deliver, and if it's a normal just-a-few-amps light then you're good with whatever.