I find the build to be quite sufficient. Most of it is even pretty good - like you said, the charging port inside the end cap is a nice design. However, as others have noticed with the D25S, it lacks a gasket for the front piece of the optics assembly. I think I would still trust it in the rain, but the D10 is surely better for water resistance.
Today I picked the driver from the Emisar D4 (v1) - which had a damaged switch - and “transplanted” it into the Acebeam H20 (headlamp).
For a while I’ve been wanting a better UI on that headlamp. Given that the switch of the D4 was damaged, I took a chance to mod the H20.
These are the original settings:
I had to diminish the driver diameter to make it fit the head’s hole. I used my “dremmel-like” tool with a sandpaper roll.
Then I replaced the wires.
And then I soldered everything!
Simple mod, great improvement in the UI 
I still have some doubts about the heat management on the driver part, but I won’t bother too much for now.
This Just In!
Acrylic paint with Strontium Aluminate…
TechnoGlow Aqua Acrylic
it goes on like a thick honey consistency… dries to the touch quickly, about 30 minutes or less…
fun times… looking forward to night
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Oh wow, that looks good. Might order some to put around the centering right on a couple lights. Wonder how it would do with the heat?
it is acrylic paint… google says acrylic tolerates up to 320F… might not be proper for a centering ring… not sure
its kind of thick… might be a bit tricky to put on the centering ring, in a way that does not alter how the reflector seats… also dont know if a tiny amount around the led would be very visible.
share what you learn
its kind of thick and does not flow flat… I did a second coat to even out the low spots… and Im quite happy with it now:
Simple pocket clips - never thought about adding it here, but figure in case nayone i ever looking for ideas. I use copper washers or wire to make the electrical connection for lights that aren't meant to have the "captured clip (i.e. fw3a clip installed onto the emisar D4 & DT8). I did about 20 minutes of dremel work to widen the KR4 clip to fit the e07x body. I used the bench top grinding wheel to narrow the "arms" of the Olight M2r Pro clip to fit the D4s. I think one of the best and easiest is the Convoy s2 clip on the D4. never falls off no mod needed.
Convoy C8+ triple. MTN Fet, modded S2+ reflectors, custon aluminium spacer and lh351d leds. Doesn’t heat very much even on 100%.
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Some nice modding there Haukkeli. What is the beam like?
Very nice actually. Picture at ~1, 5m
Nice mod, it is a bit like the Sofirn triple C8 that they used to sell (they still do?). Did you use a triple MCPCB or or three separate ones?
Three separate 16mm ones.
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Sweet idea jon !! Very nice accent and you gave everyone new options to mod lights and lanterns. :sunglasses:
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Great mod Haukkeli :+1:
Can you post more pics please 
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Sorry, I don’t have any photos of it being dismantled and it’s quite tricky to assemble after being in parts. Only other mod I have on it is pocket clip from Convoy store and spring bypasses. Those reflectors are filed down to correct diameter and then connected with JB weld.
Same C8+ showing the clip.
That’s an interesting take on a triplet. Combining 3 x S2+ reflectors plus the aluminium spacer gives me ideas.
Not described but I presume much fiddling to have the 3 separate MCPCBs and reflectors all ligne up. Nice workmanship!
It wasn’t that hard. MCPCB’s move nicely on top of a spacer when there is enough thermal paste and you haven’t yet pushed them all the way down.
If I was hinted at this mod about a year ago, I would have undertaken it. I had ordered a Sofirn C8F with the 3 LH351D emitters – but was lost in the shipping. After a much longer wait, Sofirn agreed to send another. However, they had no more in stock and I had to wait some more for the manufacturing schedule. All in all, 158 days (~5 months).
Aftermath: But in the following days of that 2nd order, so mysteriously showed up the 1st order. So now have 2 lights.
My stock lights don’t heat up much on high – 1800lm. On turbo (3600lm) it’s a different story. If your’s doesn’t heat up at these levels, I would suspect the shelf extension may not be transferring thermally to the head sides. Does it have much contact with the bowl? Nevertheless, the Sams are tough emitters and are a great choice. All milky white and just the right balance between throw and flood.
I use them on my bike. Best combo of throw with spill. Mostly on High with some moments on Turbo, and after some 2 to 2½ hours, change to my second unit.
It heats up, but it takes quite a while. That spacer is heavy piece of aluminium.
Thermal mass is the key to drawing the hotspot(s) of the emitters. Cooling fins only good if the air is circulating about.
But does the adapter fit nicely against the bowl? Drawing to the shelf may take some time.