I’m partial to the Xtar ANT MC1 Plus charger; simple, cheap, reliable. I cut one open this morning for modification. It’s slider is soldered onto the pcb and too short. If 3d printed housing and a longer slider added this would be my choice of chargers. XTAR SC1 another 1st choice for all the same reasons. Wires and magnets for the more expensive chargers.
Thanks for the response! That is great to hear, and you said something i forgot to mention (and Battery Mooch's best suggestion to reSellers to fight against fakes) is that testing random samples from the batches of batteries as they come in. It is believed (not proven) that the large reputable resellers who got scammed by bad (fake) batteries and then unknowingly sold them to their customers, were never testing their shipments of newly received batteries to make sure they were of good quality. They are doing this now though.
https://www.facebook.com/batterymooch/
I think ^ this is the best way to contact Mooch, and probably the best way to get an idea of what he is about.
If nothing else, he could probably give up to date information on some things happening in the battery distribution world, as i think he has been looking into it recently.
It sounds like you have been doing your due diligence, having a solid distributor to buy from who has enough buying power to buy direct. Makes me personally feel better knowing there is another trustworthy vendor for us. I have pretty much switched to only buying Molicel recently because of the better chance for quality, newer batched cells.
And just for transparency, we all know Mooch does not hold back from letting us know if a battery is bad/tests poorly/ or is blatantly overrated - It is nice to see that the QB2600 tested well through his testing regime (as it did with reputable members here on BLF too!) .
Also, we know Mooch doesn't do "pulse" rating tests as he believes there is no industry-wide consistent definition of what a "pulse" is, therefor he only tests for Constant Discharge Current. But that is for vaporizer's, flashlights we know can be tested differently (turbo for 10 seconds/ 30 seconds/60 seconds, etc.. and the ability of a battery to handle that particular current load). It sounds like Texas Shooter has more info on this rating for the QB26800 (30 second Turbo Amperage ability), which is great! Thanks TS!
Just read Mooch's review - yes, excellent! Glad he decided to review it. The capacity is outstanding. Thanks Artiet59!
I got 3 26800's now, just ordered 2 more from Aloft. I swapped to bigger magnets, about 1/2", on my wiring rig to charge them using the MC3000 and it's working better now.
Aloft has a huge selection that look pretty good, full specs posted on them, link for just the disc shaped ones:
https://alofthobbies.com/accessories/magnets/disc.html
Can you post the “wiring rig” for charging 26800 using the MC3000? Thanks! Would also like to do that once I get hold of some 26800 batteries…
Think I posted this before:
I changed the magnets to wider ones, about 13 mm, and instead of using the copper, flattened out the soldered ends. Any battery will do, wrapped in kapton tape so as not to make electrical contact. The battery acts as a way to hold the wire ends in place. I'm still using the 20350 cell pictured, but actually an 18650, or even 21700 would be better because the spring will make the connections tighter. Also I might be using thicker wire now.
The wider magnets are working out much better. With the SkyRC MC3000 charger, it behaves different if you don't have a good circuit - think it all depends on resistance. Little additional resistance makes a difference, same is true of charging old Pana 18650 3400's compared to Samsung 30T's - the 30T's have very low internal resistance, and when you start the charge cycle, the voltage rises very little, maybe 0.04V but a high resistance cell will rise 0.12V or more.
I need to use a bigger cell and take some pics in use.
I’ve seen people use a wooden peg cut to length or anything round and non conductive. No need to sacrifice a battery if you have other stuff on hand.
Yea, what I got is a pain to work with. Just bought 3/4" and 1" dowels of pine. Figure I can make a conductive spacer of the 1" to convert a 2 cell 26650 to 1 cell 26800.
Is it easy to solder a magnet to the end of a copper wire? Doesn’t it lose its magnetic properties when you heat it?
Wow! this is incredible @ AloftHobbies! I think i ordered these 2 days ago?? From CA -> CT, really awesome!
except now i have to wait 3 weeks for the battery tubes to com in from BG lol.
EDIT : it will give me some time to figure out how im going to charge them lol. im thinking aligator clips & magnets on the xtar vc4s
Looks exactly like mine from a ways back, only I got a Snicker. 
That's what happened to the smaller magnets I used earlier - not totally lost but reduced magnetism. The larger ones seem to hold up better. I can pick up a 26800 cell by the wire magnet.
Went out and bought a 1" pine dowel, in the process of rigging up 2 copper discs with the wire/magnet soldered to each. Cut the dowel to ~60 mm long. I'll take pics when all done.
(man my chargers are dusty, my apologies) this is where I'm at right now, not ideal, but I'm not leaving the house for the rest of night so ill keep an eye on it. I will be picking up bigger magnets as TomE suggested, so i can solder wire to them. Would make it feel less like a bad science experiment and more like a charging solution lol. its charging slow at .5a, although it started on at 2 amps, but I'm sure the TINY magnets are to blame (5mmx2mm)
Battery charge check in- 3 hours later (@ .5amp charging) QB26800 is at 3.8v and 2055mah (additional to level it was shipped) charged, according to my xtar vc4s. Whoa. Gonna take a bit, pretty awesome though!
Here's my setup as of today. Wood dowel with 1" copper discs epoxied on the ends. It's not the cleanest setup, and not sure if the solder on the magnets will hold well.
It rises about 0.15V in the MC3000, a little high but not as bas as it was:
16 AWG, magnets are a little over 1/2 inch:
Batt+ has to be in the center to make good contact in the MC3000 bay:
Soldering is suspect. The Batt- came off and re-soldered, but the battery became weaker.
Ohhh, that's what you meant with a wooden dowel, great idea! Now Im thinking about it, I have some dummy 14500/AA "cells" (plastic and metal)... maybe I can make a similar setup with those. Going to try that, and if not I have plenty of wood in the workshop! Thanks TomE!
Edit: battery check (8 hours in to charge): 4.2v and 4550 mah! It should be done soon, then onto the next one 
I had so much trust in Aloft that when my box arrived I ate the peanut butter M&Ms before I even took out the batteries. :)
Both of mine were at 3.5v and using the little magnetic Olight charger they took about 10 and 11 hours to charge up fully (with the charger plugged into a capable wall wart so hopefully giving all of the 750ma that it's supposed to). Going forward I'll probably just charge them in the light itself.
Thinking about the charger rig, though, why not forego the magnets entirely and just solder copper discs on each end of the wires, then use a mini bar clamp to snug the discs on the cell and the dummy block in the charger bay as you are now. Or maybe magnets with a countersunk hole that you could poke a bolt through and attach the wire to it in various ways.
I got a Snickers. 
Serious question— can’t they just be charged in the light (ft03 for me). Would that work and it would be faster than like the o-light magnetic charger - right?
yes