Emisar D3AA is available now

The pinkest setup would be all sw45k.
Tint mixing sw45k with sw30 will get you medium pinkness, medium tint and medium brightness, between sw45k and sw30.

Amazing news. I can’t wait for my D18 Nichia 219B sw35.

Thank you

How much is the D18 with these LEDs?

It’s $134. You have to select sst20 LED’s then send an additional $35 via PayPal to Hank.

D4V2/KR4 219B version is with 9A constant current without FET, if you need FET, please send us an email.
DT8 219B version is with 9A constant current + FET (current limit).

Is there no-PWM on the D4V2 & KR4 219B versions?

I am excited to see some beamshots from these!


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I have to ask, with the TK219 firmware, I’ve heard the FET is restricted to 80% (20% reduction) of full direct drive current. With the D4SV2 and 26650 batteries that have upwards of 20-22A of constant discharge and 30A of pulse discharge, would this be an issue for the 219B’s? I think each LED tops out at 4A? So we cannot see more than 16A of FET current for quad 219B set ups.

Should I get 26650 batteries that have 15A constant discharge but the thing is most unprotected 26650’s have 30A pulse discharge. Would that damage the LED’s?

JonSlider, thank you! this is very helpful. placing order now

for sw45k or sw35?

In 2017 people were building FET triples with these using 30Q’s.

The entire circuit dictates the amount of current. In reality 4x 219B with a single battery will not pull above 15A for any length of time. The emitters can take it briefly and by that time resistance has begun climbing and voltage dropping as to not be a problem.

The D4S is a beefy host with a very good/large DTP MCPCB. Assuming the heat path is working as it is designed and there is no big flaws it will be fine.

Im still stuck on what light i want. I'm torn between the KR4 aluminum, D4 aluminum, or the D4s in a color i dont have.

I am going sw45k though.

unless i go with the DT8, in which case i will do (4 x 3500 + 4 x 4500k).

but already have 2 DT8's, so I'm not sure if i want a 3rd (i have a xpl-hi 4000k coming in).

this is helpful as i am considering them in a D4s

Long time ago I measured a FireFlies E07 w/ 7x 219B using a “24A CDR” (who knows pulse) battery. Got 21.xx Amps for a very brief time.

4x 219B will pull less total amps but likely more per LED. Even if we assume a D4S could peak at 20A (likely less in reality but don’t know for sure) that would be 5A per LED which is slightly over driven but not enough to kill it with good heat path.

The truth is if the PCB was making very poor contact or the LED reflow was bad to begin with any LED can die under these conditions even with 50 or 80% PWM. Emisar generally has very good quality though so issues like this are very rare.

Thank you for the information! That is good to know. I am also interested in modding some lights with my 219B stash one day and always wanted to utilize a 26650/219B set up for long run times and maximum performance.

So, an Orbtronic battery like this below should be safe to utilize? (~22A)

I know there are Keeppowers and Shocklis out there with less constant current drain (15-20A), should I use these instead?

There are so few 26650’s out there these days that I wouldn’t be surprised if every accurately rated >= 5500mAh 26650 battery is the same exact battery underneath. Most people recommend this (heavily re-wrapped/re-sold) high capacity battery for all use cases both low and high discharge.

^ agreed, about them all most likely being the same battery. Not too many companies making 26650's

I have seen people mention that no matter what LED’s they try, they ultimately come back to the 219b SW45K. That includes the warmer 219b’s as well, and I can see why now. There is no warmer & pinker CCT than the SW45K the lower you go in 219b’s. I have heard people say the Nichia SW35k are the best ones, but clearly not for pink. People that say that just like warmer CCT’s, not pinker ones obviously. I’m glad I found this out because I was already putting my order in for SW35K’s. I likely would have been seriously disappointed to not be getting the warmer pinker light I imagined it’d be. Thanks for posting this and reconfirming. I may end up preferring a mix of E21a’s to achieve that warmer pinker light than SW45K i’m hoping to find.