What did you mod today?

[jon_slider]

@mattlward

the led does not seem to have the pop I expected. It just does not seem to live up to the CRI numbers.

I also find the LH351d a bit “washed out”.
I blame two factors that are different than the SW45k
The LH351d has less R9 CRI (specifically the Red output). The SST and sw45k are 90+ R9 CRI… the LH351d is lucky to hit 70…

the second factor is that LH351d, and also SST-20, have positive DUV, iow, Tint above the BBL, in the yellow/green range, instead of the sw45k which has tint below BBL

by slicing the LH351d, you move the Tint below the BBL… it does also lower the CCT 500 points

anyway, I hope you find a combination that suits you.

I agree btw that both the SST and 219b have smaller hotspots than the LH351d…

the supposed extra efficiency of the LH351d is spread over a larger target, so though more total lumens, is not necessarily more Lux on target

the LH351d tried to lay a claim to the sw45k throne, and imo, the coup failed miserably

even after cutting the dome off the LED… LOL

[Firelight2]

I quite like sliced LH351D. Specifically the “dog farts” bin at 5000K.

Output feels a lot like XPL HI, but with better CRI.

[Rayoui]

@thefreeman

I generally see +10~20 pts of Ra with 803, 5~10 with 804.
This LH351D 4000k with +24pts is indeed significant but don’t expect it to always be that high.

Yes, with most other high CRI / low R9 emitters I’ve tested the filter with I usually get R9 coming in around the 70s. The Zircon filters do seem to be particularly suited to the LH351D’s phosphor mix.

@contactcr

Doesn’t it also diffuse the beam some reducing the spot intensity?

Maybe i’m wrong but I always told myself that was the tradeoff I disliked the most. Narrow beam angles and reflectors generally have the most need for “adjustment” but also the biggest impact from filtering so it really is unfortunate if that is the case.

I don’t notice any diffusion of the beam. It’s slightly less intense due to slight loss of lumens (in this case about 15% flux) but the hotspot is the same size.

@jon_slider

that does not mean the comment is wrong, to me it means the CRI test is faulty. Because the test makes the filter look good on paper, but not in my reality.

from my personal experience with Lee minus green filters, they make the illuminated area Look like there is a Pink wash over everything … I really dont care for them, at all. They are, to me, just a cheap plastic toy to play with… I do not take them seriously, and would not want one on a light I consider valuable or special…

and yes, the lumen penalty is another reason I lose interest in filters…

The output is being slightly lowered but the test isn’t faulty. A spectrometer compares a number of color samples to a set of known samples under a 100 CRI (incandescent) source and figures the difference. More deviation results in a lower R (x) number. If the spectrometer is reading the R (x) value as high, in this case it means the filter is causing the color to be rendered very closely to how it appeared under a 100 CRI source (with all other considerations such as CCT and tint taken into account).

If your filter caused the light to become washed in a pink hue, you probably used a much too aggressive filter and went too negative on the Duv. I personally find an LED that is too pink to be just as offensive as a green one.

@jon_slider

imo, you would do better by slicing the domes, than putting pink plastic (lee filters) under the lens… yes, its thin plastic, and cuts easily… I use the lens as a template and cut around with an exacto… I cant cut a round circle with scissors at all.

Slicing the dome of the LH351D does improve the tint slightly but not to the same degree as a filter. It will also result in a much more aggressive shift in color temperature. You will also lose some luminous flux, just as with a filter (though slicing will result in an increase in intensity).

Also keep in mind that while slicing the LH351D results in a decrease in Duv, this won’t be the case with all LEDs. With most emitters, Duv will increase significantly after sliced or dedomed.

[jon_slider]

@Rayoui

I don’t notice any diffusion of the beam.

I agree, did not notice much diffusion, just coloration…

@Rayoui

The output is being slightly lowered but the test isn’t faulty.

Very helpful. Thanks for helping me to understand better… all the colors are being reduced by the filter, but at that reduced level, they are more balanced (R9 goes up and the others appear to also increase)

@Rayoui

Slicing the dome of the LH351D does improve the tint slightly but not to the same degree as a filter.

agree

@Rayoui

Also keep in mind that while slicing the LH351D results in a decrease in Duv, this won’t be the case with all LEDs.

thanks, I did not know, was only addressing mattlward’s LH351d “low pop LH351d” solutions

you have convinced me mattlward should try a filter

I volunteer someone (Rayoui?) to sent mattlward a piece of Zircon 803

[Rayoui]

I’d be willing to donate a piece of 803. I can also spare a piece of 802 and 804, for science.

[jon_slider]

[mattlward]

@Rayoui

I’d be willing to donate a piece of 803. I can also spare a piece of 802 and 804, for science.

It would be interesting if the effects of each were tested.

I have an FW3A setup with sliced 351d’s, the dogfights. It is very nice indeed.

[Xandre]

"S" ANSMAXABEAM Nachttöpfle

Regards Xandre

[Rayoui]

@mattlward

It would be interesting if the effects of each were tested.

Here is a great post by maukka comparing several Zircon filters and some standard minus green filters.

LeeFilters Swatch Book for $.01 from LeeFiltersUSA

Ordered some sheets of Lee Zircon filters. Six 61x61cm sheets were 40 euros. They’re supposed to handle heat better. I got the minus green filters in three variations, 803, 804 and 805. Here they are installed in front of the Olight S1 Mini CW. Normal minus green filters are included. The 804 and 803 Zircon filters are better at retaining the color temperature while just moving the tint towards the BBL. However, they can’t be used to correct a severe green tint. Also would have wanted the stron…

[djozz]

@Xandre

"S" ANSMAXABEAM Nachttöpfle | Taschenlampen Forum

Regards Xandre

Hi Xandre,
How do you keep the fresnel lens flat? It is really big but still thin plastic. Is it mounted all around in a stress-free way?

And what is the parabolic part of the body made of?

[jon_slider]

Lumintop TiTool AAA mod to 219b 3500k

[NeutralFan]

Thanks for the link Rayoui - very interesting read.

[Rayoui]

Swapped the emitter in my SF A2. CRI/R9 is great

I’ve got some high CRI warm white 5mm LEDs on the way with which I’m going to try swapping the secondary LEDs (currently red). That should make for an interesting amalgamation of new and old world tech, especially with its buck converter driven Xenon lamp.

[mattlward]

Well guys, about my most lame mod ever… I have been having eye problems and could not see to mod. Don’t know if I will ever get back to building my own drivers or not.

I have been on a kick with AA/14500 lights lately, not much out there with a decent driver. Now, I love the P60 modules for testing new emitters and drivers, way back in my P60 bin I had a Solarforce .8-4.2V XP-G R5 dropin. As you could guess, from Solarforce a very low drive current, crappy CW emitter. But, 3 decently space modes!

To me, this was almost no use because of the existing emitter. Given that high mode on 14500 is only about .9 amps, I decided to use something with a fairly low Vf… this required Nichia of course. I have them all from sw-30, sw-40, sw-45, sw-45k and sometimes multiple bins, my favorite emitter, But, my eyes… so I found that I had 2 sw-40 D200 already on Noctigons… Swapped out the nasty XP-G, wire soldering was bad enough. But now I have a very low voltage dropin that I swear now has a bit more output and makes my eyes happy.

The copper tape on the dropin is cut and folded back on itself to all for a better fit in the FiveMega 18500 tube. It was not making reliable contact without it. Someone told me there is a fitment ring made that drops in on top of the dropin, under the retainer that would likely fix that issue. According to FM the tube is SolarForce parts compatible, that switch and one other are the only 2 that I had that would screw on the tube. I was really bummed by that as I really want this to tail stand as it is a SHTF light for me. Overall, I am fairly happy with the final product.

I have Convoy low voltage drivers on the way, if they ever get here… I will test them in a shell, they will take more work as they are springless, I will either cut as solder a longer brass pin on the driver or see if the old AK springs will fit and find a longer version of them for the driver. But, the Convoy driver is 4 mode and a bit higher current draw. A good while back I built a dropin based on the Jaxman M2 driver for 2xAA operation and I am reasonably happy with it as well.

On an interesting side note, I compared all of my ECD 4000k lights in low modes to this dropin… Most look sick! I have lights with 2 bins of SST-20, 2 bins of Lh351D and with XP-L 5A3 and 5D2. Of all of them, the 5D2 was about a perfect tint match, but much lower CRI. All of the SST’s and one of my LH351D’s looked down right yellow green next to this emitter.

Anyone have an extra one of this dropin? I would really like one more, not sure why I only bought one at the time. I guess I figured SolarForce would be around forever.

!!
!!

[Xandre]

First test not focussed

@Djozz The lens is stabilized with metal
The lens sit in in the falt

https://www.lueftungsmarkt.de/wickelfalzrohr-muffe-R-600-mm-fuer-formteile-verzinkt?channable=00b3af6964004c4d532d31343931352d303139a6&gclid=CjwKCAjwos-HBhB3EiwAe4xM99M-ZYJspMBZu0IWfFkVqabFAEK7D_CVfMgMfYp-OlppQkpX9bq8VhoCcS4QAvD_BwE

https://www.depot-online.de/de/p/metallring-21248?gclid=CjwKCAjwos-HBhB3EiwAe4xM9_oqm4eDgNG1Huz68w34IVSE9rZYAhm7KnAST2dznYDupkqanfbcxhoCy7MQAvD_BwE

Regards Xandre

[djozz]

Thanks Xandre, that sounds good. Nice beam, it looks like it will be a bit of a rainbow around the focus, like I had with my XM-L2 36cm fresnel box, but I hope it will still be a good spot

[Haukkeli]

I’ve been trying to get Convoy 12V boost driver with current sense resistor value halved to work with XHP70.2 on 12V MCPCB. Well, not a success. It lits up and is quite bright, but I can’t change modes. Few taps and nothing happens, few more and it flickers. 20 taps and I can get to config mode and change groups. If I use GT-FC40, the driver works just fine. Can’t really tell is it brighter than with stock driver. At least it works. So partially success?

[thefreeman]

Half the value will double the current, was that what you wanted to do ? It might hit the switch current limit and some components might be undersized for it.
Which driver is it, is it originally for 6V or 12V?

[Haukkeli]

Yes, that was what I tried to do. It is meant for GT-FC40 and is 12V boost driver. I was trying to use it as a 12V 5A driver for XHP70.2. Didn’t work. For GT-FC40 it did work. Molicel P42 is the battery I used.

[Haukkeli]

Convoy S21A with GT-FC40 and S2+ clip.