Ordered my first ZebraLight

I do like it, except I think it’s more of a $75 light not a $120 light.

i think ramping would be nice to have as an option, but i prefer ZL UI for everyday use because it forces me to use premeditated, known output levels. i get a lot of runtime, and it's relatively predictable.

think of it as a USA price,
the Zebra business is in Texas,
they offer a unique product with premium features:

The Zebra is potted

the Anodising is upgraded

The switch is reliable and does not turn on in your pocket

the design optimizes thermal regulation, thermal mass, and heat dissipation, so higher outputs can be maintained longer

sophisticated battery management

sophisticated UI

High Efficiency

A Zebra is not a chabuduo light shipped from Asia.

I think of it like an iPhone, designed in USA, for sale at USA prices.

I agree. The premium in price is likely attributed to higher labor cost. Glad to pay it if you ask me.

If there was an American company that made a better TV than Sony or Samsung that cost more money, I would buy it.

Let’s not forget, the USA used to make the best electronics in the world for many decades.

things evolve
now USA companies outsource for lower labor costs

ZebraLights are designed and engineered in the U.S. and manufactured in China. I own 2 and am very happy with them.

I have 2 Zebralights. A cute little H53c with very cold emitter in it (6300k), and a perfectly sized SC64c LE w/LH351D (nicely warm). The build quality is excellent. And while the SC64c LE is outclassed in brightness by the similar sized FW3A, it is just wonderfully efficient. For the same price, I could’ve gotten an Emisar D4v2 with accessories… But I’d call it apples to oranges.

Mixed feeling about my Zebra. Quite powerful, nice UI, but there’s a problem with the switch compartment. The switch boot itself apparently clicks before the switch is even touched. So, I hear a double click. Repeats after 30 seconds or so. Mysterious. Still working and feeling good otherwise. Guess this is an isolated problem as I’ve never found another report of it.

On my H52 there’s quite a distance between the dome and the switch. I have the feeling it got worse over time, but that might be imagination. Effect is like a two-step button: first the dome makes contact with the switch, then it presses it down. During release you hear the switch first and then another click when the dome separates from the switch.

Same on my SC5c Mark II.

If spare parts were easy to come by, I’d crack it open.

The switch rubber cover from the D4v2 fits (I think all ZLs use the same size), you can buy them directly from Hank via email. It has a protruding tip inside so on its own it might solve the issue of empty space between the cover and switch, if not then the switch can be resoldered slightly higher.

That said it’s possible to pry the retention ring without damaging the rubber cover, but it sure is better to have a replacement in case of.

edit :

Thank you, Gaston :+1: .

BTW, I’d not raise the switch but glue some rubber into the boot. Already did it, simple job and feels good.

All my ZLs have that same feeling of the dome pushing down to meet the switch first, but the switch itself feels so good that I don’t really mind.

No much to see, but now I know it’s the switch. It does touch the boot. When pressing it slightly down, it clicks and stays there for some seconds, then again moves slowly upwards. Pressing it further down, there’s a second click and the light registers the signal.

Maybe a spring is broken that keeps the button under tension. The actual contact spring is ok. Hope it stays that way.

Ideas, anyone?

Switches can have pretravel, I assume this is true of electronic microswitches as well? Considering it actually sounds to be kinda common based on this thread (the 3 Zebras I own now all have it but zero other switch issues, and I think there were some posts about it on CPF once) I’d imagine it’s just how the particular microswitch these use operates.

Ah so it’s not the boot not touching the switch (I have several ZL where they don’t touch) but the switch is defective, I don’t see other option than to change it, This is what they use (or others of the same size, 250g)

I’ll replace it if I find a source for the switches. It doesn’t feel ok.

Thanks again!

You’re welcome, probably you’ll going to have to remove the driver from the light because replacing it from the switch opening looks difficult.

Yes, maybe my reflow station will do. Not yet ready to prey out the bezel (chicken :person_facepalming: ).