Anyone else finding this stubidly and morbidly entertaining?……
Me real-time goin’ back and forth surgerying on this poor Ti2, the gallery looking down from up in the balcony, until maybe watt’s only goin’ be left is the tail end with the lanyard loop.
Cut another coil off the spring so all that was left was about 5mm.
IT WORKED!!! :laughing:
Arow55………………….’’YOU CRAZY BASSTURD!!! I READ YOUR BOOK!!!.” Gen. George S. Notta, Retired.
PS. Jon, I don’t know watt to say. This shouldn’t have werked. :student: :laughing: :person_facepalming: :+1:
PSS. I cut off enuff of the spring coil that if ya just freely drop in the Eneloop the top insulation face is about 1mm higher than the tube. That’s a lot of difference.
I just de-domed the XPG2 NW on one of my new Ti3’s. Bought quite a few at this price. Watt an improvement in tint and CRI. Instead of NW it’s definitely now a warm white. The NW IMO has a bit of a greenish cast so not so much NW, eh? Tonight I’ll see watt it did to throw and flood.
Hotspot now considerably steps all over the stock XPG2 NW on a white wall. No surprise it’ll throw further outside.
Very pleased with the results. Watt a bargain this was for $5.95. :+1: :money_mouth_face: And I certainly like that it has an AR lens to boot.
Thanks again for all your attention on the Ti2 issue. Appreciated.
PS. Both Ti2’s have that biggish black chip mentioned above in the OP with the “F” imprinted on top chipped at the corner essentially. It’s a big enuff chip that you can see the toroid-like wound wiring.
I think it’s a combination of me extra-torquing the head to get it to work and the coil cutback allowing contact. Butt like you said it’s a concentric spring. (???)
When you turn the head on the fixed ones it rotates down easily now so that it’s almost flush (about 0.25mm gap) with the tube step - the way it’s supposed to be. Before, there was about a 0.50+mm gap - even as I’ve said when extra-torque was applied. That’s when I’m pretty sure I did the main significant chipping on that “F” component, confirmed by the “krik” sound. :laughing:
Some all might get a kick outta this. Sealed in their boxes units btw……
Of the ten I received only one worked with an Eneloop. That one as I examined its driver components had that “F” biggish chip already with the corner nearest the positive anode showing a ‘crack’.
Hmmmmm. Someone at the factory (Sung Yu?) had obviously tried an Eneloop. Couldn’t get it to work either.
Was told…“Sung Yu!!! Stop trying Eneloop! Test only alkyline! How many time tell you!”.
’
Anyway, I figured leave the stock spring where it is. Stick in an Eneloop and see if it it’ll work with that chip corner already ‘pre-chipped’. Lo and behold, I hear a “krik!” as I turn down the head.
And it works.
So I remove the head and examine the driver. Sure enough the cracked corner is now completely chipped off leaving only a very very slim slice of chip plastic remaining at its base next to the anode. Wiring in the chip is now exposed as well.
There ya have it. The “F” chip being so close to the driver positive is the main culprit - not allowing the Eneloop positive anode to make full contact with the driver brass button. The 10mm long spring left intact now allows the flash to work. I think it would be pretty tuff to dremel that chip corner base down as fine as this “effortlessly” turned out. Risky because you’d be grinding so close around the tiny driver board at this juncture - much less accidently hitting other components in the process. You’d need one tiny grinding bit too. I wouldn’t do it unless I didn’t give a rat sh*t whether I won the battle or not.
Bottom line is that you’re prolly better off going with Arow55’s coil reduction solution and just leave it at that.
The Eneloop insulation face still sticks above the tube by about 4mm as it does when stock and as shown in Jon Slider’s pics above for his Olights. Previously I had mentioned that it stuck up about 1mm when the spring coils were removed to about a total of 4mm height. Well if anyone else runs into this I would suggest to get the Eneloop insulation face just even or slightly below the tube top. This means yer cutting off about 6mm to 7mm from the stock spring. That’s a lot and more than just one coil - for mine at least.
I mentioned to Arow55 that the tan version was sexy. B*tchin’ actually. I have to say it’s kinda becoming one of my favorite colors for any flash now. Makes a purrty little flash that particular ThruNite Ti2 tan shade does.
With that……
Good nite, Alice.
Good nite, Notta. See ya in a year or two.
PS. I just thought about it some more. I have a hunch that one unit wasn’t tested at the factory with an Eneloop. It was likely a outside pristine warranty return that indeed worked with their alkaline batt! Oooooooo.
> There ya have it. The “F” chip being so close to the driver positive is the main culprit – not allowing the Eneloop positive anode to make full contact with the driver brass button.
> Bottom line is that you’re prolly better off going with Arow55’s coil reduction solution and just leave it at that
I dont understand how those two statements are not mutually exclusive
from where I sit, the chip in the component allows the anode to touch the brass button… the spring stuff is just a distraction, that by coincidence breaks the chip off the component during repeated screwing…
but, I dont mind how you get there, cut the spring or not… if it works for you, rock on!
and if you dont want to chip the F chip, maybe a foil ball, solder blob, or magnet, to add some height to the brass button…
imnsho, its not the spring… we know the batteries are the same length, and that the eneloop anode is 0.3mm wider
until I see a photo of an intact, not chipped corner on an F Chip, that works with a short spring, Im calling Bulloney
my bet is every Ti2 that works with an Eneloop, has a corner chipped off the F Chip, regardless whether the spring is short or long…
Ive been wrong before, when I thought I was mistaken… LOL
I know. Butt for most folks this is likely the safest illusion/delusion. Btw if it’s repeated screwing that get’s it it’d have to be quite vigorous and hard. That little chip is tuff! :laughing:
PS. Bear in mind that of the 9 I had to fix using Arow55’s method the chip in question is completely intact afterwards - no vigorous screwing necessary either.
darn, there goes my perfect guesswork track record… lol
I dont understand, but, for the price, I almost dont care…
as far as the spring color, the silver ones are stiffer than the gold ones, but they should still screw down to the same body to head gap, as you describe, both cut, and uncut… or does the headgap change after cutting the spring (it shouldnt)
“……and if you dont want to chip the F chip, maybe a foil ball, solder blob, or magnet, to add some height to the brass button…”
Already tried a sizable solder blob on the brass button from the get-go. Still didn’t work. And that’s because in retrospect the tube negative couldn’t seat against the driver negative ring in combination with the stock spring made too much of a gap. Yes, I know the spring is concentric but it would also take a lot of twisting head pressure to get there and bridge that gap. Prolly would break something else too.
Ya know, Jon, maybe ya should get that 10 pak and mess with it. Like I said the 5 tan versions ya get is worth the price alone IMO.
“……as far as the spring color, the silver ones are stiffer than the gold ones, but they should still screw down to the same body to head gap, as you describe, both cut, and uncut… or does the headgap change after cutting the spring (it shouldnt)”
Head gap doesn’t change.
That silver spring version is quite stiff indeed. You might be surpised even tho’ it’s concentric how much turn pressure I had to apply on the head up to a certain point.
Then I had to eventually wuss out. It won.
PS. I just thought about it some more. I have a hunch that one unit wasn’t tested at the factory with an Eneloop. It was likely an outside pristine warranty return that indeed worked with their alkaline batt!
“So watts the prob with this thing, Sung Yu? We see nutting wrong! Put back in new box! Chop! Chop!”
I don’t understand most of what you two are talking about. My simple minded thought was the spring wasn’t allowing top of tube to make contact with head. The alkaline I used was a bit shorter.