Btw I wood say the de-domed XPG2 NW falls somewhere between the 219b 4500k and the 219b 3000 as shown in your above jpg link.
thanks for sharing your experience with The Ti2 arow55 Fix :+1:
I wonder if the spring in my Olight i3e is different than the spring in the Ti2?
or if your Ti2 works because the component corner is now chipped out of the way, after the number of times the light has been loaded and twisted?
here is my Olight i3e:
this is how far the battery sticks out on the stock spring:
the spring allows the battery to be compressed below the end of the body tube:
the spring is concentric so it can go totally flat:
it is gold colored:
do you see any differences to the spring in the Ti2? (I dont own one)
about Ti3:
glad youre enjoying the dedomed option…
fwiw, because the Ti3 reflectors have a large enough opening at the base, the LH351d is also a good match for modding the Ti3 LED…
Ti2’s spring is silver.
Total coils of 5 including concentric flat-top.
Coil thickness is 0.60mm.
Stock coil height is 10mm.
PS. Both Ti2’s have that biggish black chip mentioned above in the OP with the “F” imprinted on top chipped at the corner essentially. It’s a big enuff chip that you can see the toroid-like wound wiring. 
I think it’s a combination of me extra-torquing the head to get it to work and the coil cutback allowing contact. Butt like you said it’s a concentric spring. (???)
When you turn the head on the fixed ones it rotates down easily now so that it’s almost flush (about 0.25mm gap) with the tube step - the way it’s supposed to be. Before, there was about a 0.50+mm gap - even as I’ve said when extra-torque was applied. That’s when I’m pretty sure I did the main significant chipping on that “F” component, confirmed by the “krik” sound. :laughing:
Some all might get a kick outta this. Sealed in their boxes units btw……
Of the ten I received only one worked with an Eneloop. That one as I examined its driver components had that “F” biggish chip already with the corner nearest the positive anode showing a ‘crack’.
Hmmmmm. Someone at the factory (Sung Yu?) had obviously tried an Eneloop. Couldn’t get it to work either.
Was told…“Sung Yu!!! Stop trying Eneloop! Test only alkyline! How many time tell you!”. 
’
Anyway, I figured leave the stock spring where it is. Stick in an Eneloop and see if it it’ll work with that chip corner already ‘pre-chipped’. Lo and behold, I hear a “krik!” as I turn down the head.
And it works.
So I remove the head and examine the driver. Sure enough the cracked corner is now completely chipped off leaving only a very very slim slice of chip plastic remaining at its base next to the anode. Wiring in the chip is now exposed as well.
There ya have it. The “F” chip being so close to the driver positive is the main culprit - not allowing the Eneloop positive anode to make full contact with the driver brass button. The 10mm long spring left intact now allows the flash to work. I think it would be pretty tuff to dremel that chip corner base down as fine as this “effortlessly” turned out. Risky because you’d be grinding so close around the tiny driver board at this juncture - much less accidently hitting other components in the process. You’d need one tiny grinding bit too. I wouldn’t do it unless I didn’t give a rat sh*t whether I won the battle or not.
Bottom line is that you’re prolly better off going with Arow55’s coil reduction solution and just leave it at that. 
The Eneloop insulation face still sticks above the tube by about 4mm as it does when stock and as shown in Jon Slider’s pics above for his Olights. Previously I had mentioned that it stuck up about 1mm when the spring coils were removed to about a total of 4mm height. Well if anyone else runs into this I would suggest to get the Eneloop insulation face just even or slightly below the tube top. This means yer cutting off about 6mm to 7mm from the stock spring. That’s a lot and more than just one coil - for mine at least.
I mentioned to Arow55 that the tan version was sexy. B*tchin’ actually. I have to say it’s kinda becoming one of my favorite colors for any flash now. Makes a purrty little flash that particular ThruNite Ti2 tan shade does. 
With that……
Good nite, Alice.
Good nite, Notta. See ya in a year or two.
PS. I just thought about it some more. I have a hunch that one unit wasn’t tested at the factory with an Eneloop. It was likely a outside pristine warranty return that indeed worked with their alkaline batt! Oooooooo. 
> There ya have it. The “F” chip being so close to the driver positive is the main culprit – not allowing the Eneloop positive anode to make full contact with the driver brass button.
> Bottom line is that you’re prolly better off going with Arow55’s coil reduction solution and just leave it at that
I dont understand how those two statements are not mutually exclusive
from where I sit, the chip in the component allows the anode to touch the brass button… the spring stuff is just a distraction, that by coincidence breaks the chip off the component during repeated screwing…
but, I dont mind how you get there, cut the spring or not… if it works for you, rock on!
and if you dont want to chip the F chip, maybe a foil ball, solder blob, or magnet, to add some height to the brass button…
imnsho, its not the spring… we know the batteries are the same length, and that the eneloop anode is 0.3mm wider
until I see a photo of an intact, not chipped corner on an F Chip, that works with a short spring, Im calling Bulloney
my bet is every Ti2 that works with an Eneloop, has a corner chipped off the F Chip, regardless whether the spring is short or long…
Ive been wrong before, when I thought I was mistaken… LOL
I know. Butt for most folks this is likely the safest illusion/delusion. Btw if it’s repeated screwing that get’s it it’d have to be quite vigorous and hard. That little chip is tuff! :laughing:
PS. Bear in mind that of the 9 I had to fix using Arow55’s method the chip in question is completely intact afterwards - no vigorous screwing necessary either.
darn, there goes my perfect guesswork track record… lol
I dont understand, but, for the price, I almost dont care… 
as far as the spring color, the silver ones are stiffer than the gold ones, but they should still screw down to the same body to head gap, as you describe, both cut, and uncut… or does the headgap change after cutting the spring (it shouldnt)
“……and if you dont want to chip the F chip, maybe a foil ball, solder blob, or magnet, to add some height to the brass button…”
Already tried a sizable solder blob on the brass button from the get-go. Still didn’t work. And that’s because in retrospect the tube negative couldn’t seat against the driver negative ring in combination with the stock spring made too much of a gap. Yes, I know the spring is concentric but it would also take a lot of twisting head pressure to get there and bridge that gap. Prolly would break something else too.
Ya know, Jon, maybe ya should get that 10 pak and mess with it. Like I said the 5 tan versions ya get is worth the price alone IMO.
“……as far as the spring color, the silver ones are stiffer than the gold ones, but they should still screw down to the same body to head gap, as you describe, both cut, and uncut… or does the headgap change after cutting the spring (it shouldnt)”
Head gap doesn’t change.
That silver spring version is quite stiff indeed. You might be surpised even tho’ it’s concentric how much turn pressure I had to apply on the head up to a certain point.
Then I had to eventually wuss out. It won.
PS. I just thought about it some more. I have a hunch that one unit wasn’t tested at the factory with an Eneloop. It was likely an outside pristine warranty return that indeed worked with their alkaline batt!
“So watts the prob with this thing, Sung Yu? We see nutting wrong! Put back in new box! Chop! Chop!”
Oooooooo.
glad you are enjoying the color of your new Ti2 Tans
and
glad you managed to get all the lights working
the reason Im not buying the Ti2 is because I dont have the confidence to swap the LED, due to the plastic pill
meanwhile this is what I did tonight
Ti3, LED swap to 3500k 219b:
these have a metal pill, so the LED swap is straightforward
thanks for the interesting puzzle and conversation, and for tracking all the variables
I can hesitantly believe that cutting the silver spring makes it easier to screw the body tube to contact the pill…
I recant my previous opinions and yield to the distinguished gentleman:
prize goes to arow55
honorable mention to nottawhackjob
Nice! 
I don’t understand most of what you two are talking about. My simple minded thought was the spring wasn’t allowing top of tube to make contact with head. The alkaline I used was a bit shorter.
On one Utorch the tube was too short so I put a spacer in tail cap. Same idea.
I dont understand what youre talking about either… LOL
but if it works, it does not matter whether I understand
and I will still buy you a virtual Beer for helping nottawhackjob get his lights working. It does sound like the silver springs are preventing the body tube from reaching the pill
Hey Arow, I don’t blame ya at all here. If it wasn’t for that lucky one unit that had that chip corner pre-cracked down to its gnat’s a*s base this wouldn’t make sense fer sure. Butt I left in that stiff stock spring just as it came from the factory and lo and behold it now worked with an Eneloop. I know……
Arow……
I hope I can explain something better here since ya have a Ti2 in hand.
If you remove the head from those where you’ve shortened the springs I bet you’ll find that “F” stamped black chip has one corner that’s at least partially caved-in or completely sliced off.
The combination of shortening the spring AND the F chip’s corner slight cave-in allowed as you say for the negative driver ring to eventually make contact with the tube’s negative end and the batt positive anode to also make contact with the driver ’s positive button. One without the other will likely not let these Ti2’s work. That little stock spring is deceptively stiff.
(Except in the one exception I show immediately above where the chip’s corner is completely shaved off down to its nitty gritty base. Then the stock spring will work with an Eneloop. In that case there is no chip corner interference with the positive batt anode and the negatives can complete their connection.) As you’ll see on your heads the chip corner is likely just caved in enuff and then WITH the shortened spring everything works as it should.
Nonetheless your solution still ends up as the simplest and most practical.
I’m drinking tequila because I figured I wasn’t getting enough cactus in my diet.
HAHAHAHA!!!
Great one!
Btw if anyone cares I’ll try to explain a perhaps subtle mechanical nuance about watt I’ve said above tomorrow.
I still do not understand how the spring is the issue… but there are a couple of differences…
I took the silver spring out of my Ti3 and put it in the i3e.
I suspect the Ti2 and Ti3 use the same silver spring.
The i3e works fine with the silver spring from the Ti3, and also fine with the gold spring the i3e came with. This suggests to me, that the spring is not the problem… but then… I cannot deny all your reports that cutting the spring solved the problem, without chipping any corners off the driver components.
fwiw, the silver spring is Not fully concentric, the bottom wind sits on top of another, creating a 2 wire thickness when fully compressed.
The silver spring is also stiffer, it uses thicker wire… (and the silver spring is also shorter, but I dont think that is relevant)
otoh, the gold spring compresses fully concentrically, to a single wire thickness.
and it is easier to compress.
I do not know if the thickness of one extra wire, is the cause of the problem with the silver spring in a Ti2, it is not a problem with the Olight i3e. However, cutting off part of the bottom of the Silver spring, would eliminate the overlapping wire. That suggests that there is a logical reason for why the arow55 fix works to solve a possible issue with the body tube not reaching the pill. But the arow55 spring cut does not address the component that gets chipped because it sits closer to the brass button on the Ti2, than on the i3e…
(An update on ThruNite’s response to my issues and referencing this thread which they are now monitoring. This is now elevated to engineering. They’re not gonna like what they’ll find. )
Regarding the spring wire not being truly concentric on the silver I think you’re spot-on. This would help explain why cutting off the lower coils made a difference too.
Since we know the chip interference is also part of the contact problem there’s another little wrinkle here………
If and when the ‘F’ chip is even just slightly ‘chipped’ off at its closest to the brass button corner the batt’s positive anode is now effectively ‘cocked’ to one side of the brass button yet it still makes contact. This slight cocking at the brass button end translates accordingly to the batt negative end due to the non-parallel distance to gap law, where the gap increases accordingly. Soooooo…………we have two things going on here. At the batt negative it’s now not quite pressing vertically concentric to the stock spring. This causes the spring to cock as well. Now we have binding and friction and that would explain why the stock spring doesn’t give enuff to also allow the negative driver ring and the tube negative to connect.
When the ‘F’ chip corner in my one unit example above was essentially completely sliced off at its base the positive batt anode made full flat contact with the brass button and consequently concentric vertical compression occurred and the stock spring was now able to allow clear non-binding travel for the two negatives points to connect. This was the mechanical ‘nuance’ I briefly mention to Arow above.