Well this is great news. My first Al triple version is coming this week. Would’ve held off had I known this
Just received my FWAA Copper SST-20 4000k
First impressions… wow, thats tiny… The LED does not seem “too” green, quite nice as a single source. Of course compared to an sw45k the SST is not pink at all, but the SST has a nice golden color.
the light worked fine out of the box, the tailcap was very tight. The retaining ring in the head was loose… now tight
a few more photos:
my first foray into reprogramming:
I set thermal step down to 31C,
and calibrated the Thermal sensor to my ambient temp.
I confirmed the light is limiting head temperature to the specified temp, with my IR thermometer
The copper host heats up very evenly, quite pleasant in fact… Hotter at the head, but dissipates into the rest of the body, very evenly. Feels good in hand.
initial output tests
Simple mode
default minimum is 3 lumens
ceiling is about 580 lumens which quickly drops and settles around 90 lumens sustained
advanced mode:
minimum is 0.1 lumens
maximum is about 1150 initial lumens on my meter
battery check is very accurate, maybe reads 0.1v low, which is fine
battery is charging, using an Olight Universal USB charger the max charge rate is slightly below 1C at about 800mA, which tapers down to about 170mA as the charge passes 4.1v
I turn the light on by press hold, so it ramps up from the floor. This works well.
I can see how this UI would be a problem in pocket activation, as leaning on the button makes it ramp up. I would definitely recommend using Lockout to avoid HotPockets.
The switch is easy to use, the O ring mod may follow to make it a bit higher resistance. Took the pocket clip off…
The FWAA is a fun little light, weighs 88 grams loaded, the AA Tool weighs almost exactly the same, 89grm w eneloop. The AAA Tool weighs about half as much, 46grams w eneloop.
I like the little FWAA form factor a lot… Am tempted to buy a Ti version for the weight reduction…
Has anyone modded a pocket clip
Or found a better one for this light?
I’ve seen where someone cut the two way clip part off. Careful grinding was needed I’m sure.
here is a cut clip on a FW3A:
Basically exactly like that.
My problem is with the “soft retention”
Does this improve the ability for the clip to hold on better?
No, cutting the bend off wont increase the grip of the clip.
I agree the clip does not have strong retention. Maybe in the future there will be a better option. The clip location does not ride on any knurling, the grip is only against smooth surfaces. The clip is also not deep carry enough, for my liking.
you could try bending the clip to increase pressure, but it wont solve the lack of deep carry, and it will still be riding only on smooth surfaces of the light. So I dont think bending will produce meaningful change, but here is a visual for you to consider:
Meanwhile, Ive been entertained experimenting flipping the body (right pic), which I like. I also experimented flipping the clip (middle pic), which I also like, but the light wont turn on that way.
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Congrats on the new flashlight jon_slider 
Seems like you have a nice piece there and I hope you enjoy it
BTW, as for the clip, at least in the alu version, you can also use it under the bezel, I don’t know about the Cu version and other! Enjoy it
Thank you for a detailed reply
I have already preloaded the bend as much as I feel safe to (without bending excessively) and I feel like if I bend it any further I won’t be able to tighten the tail cap down without cross threading it
I LOVE the flashlight
I HATE the clip and am afraid or it popping out of my pocket and losing it
I’ll keep looking for an alternative solution
Thanks for all your help
I agree, and hope some accessories come along, including a better clip with deeper carry, and a glow gasket
suggestion to test
if you move the clip between the head and body (and if the light still turns on)
it will make the clip slightly more deep carry, but still not tight grip.
I would use the clip under the head, if it made contact, but no luck.
I stayed up late learning to set ceilings and floors.
1. My simple mode now has a ceiling of 200 lumens (72 steps down from 150), and 24 steps, just like an HDS. That max output is sustainable, does not trigger thermal step downs. I like this sustainable output option.
2. My advanced mode now has a ceiling of 550 lumens (50 clicks down from 150). also 24 steps. That max output is NOT sustainable, it triggers the 45C default thermal step down, and goes down to 90 lumens, sustained… Not ideal.
3. I set manual memory to 10 lumens using my light meter (it is step 10 of 24)
4. Calibrated the thermosensor, am still using default 45C thermal step down.
5. Battery check is great, it reads 0.1v low, which I like. Im leaving voltage calibration stock.
6. To determing when Im in simple mode, I do a battery check, 3C from off. IF the battery check turns off after the first readout, the light is in Simple… IF the batt check repeats in a loop, Im in advanced.
At this point, the practical difference between advanced and simple (besides ceiling), is that when I want to use a strobe to alert traffic, while crossing the street, I must be in advanced. I have strobe set to bike flasher, there is no strobe in simple.
I have zero interest in any of the candle and lighting modes… random flickers and flashes really bother me.
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FWAA Anduril2 non standard commands trivia:
1. the temperature config position in the menu, it comes 3rd, after battery check and beacon
2. in advanced, 2C gives ceiling, but a second 2C does not work to go to Turbo. I dont mind… 1000+ lumens of Turbo for 3 seconds is not necessary for my application. Momentary Turbo is still available from Off with 2H
Here is an edited Lux Perpetua FWAA Anduril 2 UI flow chart:
I made 3 changes, in blue…
- moved FWAA temp config to 3rd position
- blocked out 2C to turbo in advanced, with a blue box
- I put the number 3 instead of a 2, in the ceiling and floor config menu, for the step count
Im enjoying the FWAA very much, presently running in Simple Stepped mode with the body tube reversed (gives a better grip imo):
I painted some glow paint around the inside of the head (onto the plastic ring). It works, but a properly fitted glow gasket would be better.
Sorry, I guess I explained myself wrongly. When I meant under the bezel it was really under the bezel, not between the head and tube.
I am not sure if it can be done in the Cu version…
As for running it with the tube inverted, I tried to do it on mine but it doesn’t turn on. I guess it may be related to the internal tube, eventually.
I am glad you are liking it and that you “found” your optimal confirgurations for it
BTW, will it receive some Nichias anytime soon?
Wow!!
Great idea!
I knew if I asked here. I’d get the right answer
The clip under the bezel REALLY gives it the retention needed
THANK YOU!!
thanks for the photo,
that option is a bezel up carry… will think about it…
under the head would allow bezel down carry…
Have not decided what LED mod to use yet, the SST-20 is pretty nice as is.
before I decide…
Im waiting for azhu to restock 219b 3500k, which is slightly more pink than the SST:
hard to capture in a photo, the difference that I see with my eyes. The SST is slightly greener and cooler than the 3500k 219b.
The SST is not obviously green, like I feared. Its quite nice.
Cool, glad it helped It was an experience but I am actually fond of it too!
Yup, this option I’ve shown is not suitable for bezel down carry, it would need to be a longer clip for that.
I do like, though, that it won’t burn pockets since it is bezel/light up. It can activate accidentally, of course, given the switch can be pressed by things inside the pockets. There is no perfect solution with this clip :zipper_mouth_face:
Hum, I only have 2 lights with SST20, but I guess all of them will always have some green that the Nichias don’t have.
A 3500K Nichia will look great on that Cu version, so if you go for it, please show it to us then
yay!
did putting the clip under the bezel, reduce the pressure on the lens?
(compromised water seal)
Did you add an extra lens or O ring to make up the gap created by the clip lifting the bezel away from the optic?
It does reduce the pressure, so it is advised to use an extra o-ring under the glass less (between that and the optic), or get a thicker lens
yes
the internal tube has a lot of resistance to sliding towards either end
by tightening the tailcap onto the “head” (the flared end) of the body tube, with the clip installed, I was able to push the inner tube towards the “tail” (not flared). Now it works with the head on the flipped body. As pictured: (light is ON to show it works)
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Hey jon_slider, congrats on getting your first Anduril UI flashlight! And thanks so much for the comparative beam shot photos. I’ve got one of these on the way as well. Very encouraged by the emitter tint. I was worried there might be a greenish tinge but it’s obvious that it’s more golden in color. A nice pale golden that’s closer to neutral than it is to full-on warm. That’s pretty much what I’ve been looking for in an AA sized EDC. There’s also something nice about sleek copper like this, as opposed to chunky, busy designs.
exactly right, pale gold for the 4000k color temperature
and very neutral tint,
it is an overcast day, the SST-20 does not look green at all
and flipping the body is fun too
all but the FWAA SST-20 4000k have sw45k mods
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