*BLF LT1 Lantern Project) (updated Nov,17,2020)

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madcrow
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DrBashir wrote:
From what I understand only the other version has the green standby light, which seem to have all been orange-body models? Not sure if there’s a correlation, or if I’m mistaken with that.

This is the link I ordered it from, with “Black-NewVersion-with-Battery” selected:
https://sofirnlight.com/products/new-version-blf-lt1-lantern-with-anduri...

Sorry to disappoint, but unfortunately there is no such correlation (it would be too easy Big Smile ). For instance, I also have a black unit, ordered directly from Sofirn’s webshop using the same URL you did. And it’s based around the BLF-LT1-A2 driver. Same for the guy on reddit. He also has a black LT1 w the BLF-LT1-A2 driver and green standby light. Actually, at the time when he and I ordered ours, the orange color option was not even available yet.

DrBashir
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madcrow wrote:

Sorry to disappoint, but unfortunately there is no such correlation (it would be too easy Big Smile ). For instance, I also have a black unit, ordered directly from Sofirn’s webshop using the same URL you did. And it’s based around the BLF-LT1-A2 driver. Same for the guy on reddit. He also has a black LT1 w the BLF-LT1-A2 driver and green standby light. Actually, at the time when he and I ordered ours, the orange color option was not even available yet.

Dang. Should have looked more carefully. Thanks for letting me know!

madcrow
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DBSAR wrote:

…i was not as directly involved, or aware of driver changes. I have been however watching the LT1 te4am chat group, but there has been no updates from Barry with Sofirn or other team members during my downtimes.. I wish Barry would have consulted with the team, ( all of us active members on the design/development team for the LT1: (Myself, ToyKeeper, SIGShooter, Barry0892, Phlogiston, Lexel, sbslider, BlueSwordM, bmengineer, Lux-Perpetua and amishbill) were the team that contributed to the LT1.

Maybe SIGShooter has some background info (?). I mean it was not exactly a secret that a reverse charging variant was coming. And it was SIGShooter who published that info in the LT1 topic more than a year ago.
DBSAR
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CR888 wrote:
Lux-Perpetua wrote:

I am working on a new Andúril 2 manual (for LT1) already. Unfortunately, some last information on the configuration defaults for the new LT1 have arrived on very short notice. Moreover, I need to be careful not making a whole bible with too many pages. Facepalm


I still hope for these two models (wishful thinking, of course):


LT1R – three-channel version (deep red – 2700K – 5000K)


LT1Max – 4-6× 21700 with PD charging (12V 3A), significantly larger head and > 1.200lm

Yes Yes Yes! About a week ago I was starring at my LT1 I have mounted on a tall tripod stand & thought I’d rather a bigger lantern than a smaller one. Something with 4× 21700 or 26800 heaps of mAh’s….heaps of lumens if desired like 1-2000. Something that wasn’t focused on fitting into a hikers backpack instead focused on a camper who has a truck, tents and sets up a campsite. A light you could use for 4+nights, can be quickly topped up with the latest fast charging, maybe have some powerbank function. Just a BIG fk-OFF version of the LT1. I’d buy a couple and pay good money for them. It would sell too as most lanterns have a minimalist approach i.e they are tiny, have tiny cells and to maximize run times have tiny Betty & Jim LEDS that don’t sustain much light output. I must say the LT1 is definitely better than most of them, I’d just like bigger.

That is planned, for the LT2. four 21700 capability, with power bank, 3rd red LED channel.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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DBSAR wrote:
That is planned, for the LT2. four 21700 capability, with power bank, 3rd red LED channel.

My bets are this will be more vaporware, but I’ll keep my fingers crossed. Has anyone from Sofirn discussed when these might go into production?

Also, did they include you in the prototype phase, or are they going to skip that and move ahead by themselves (as they have done with subsequent LT1 changes)?

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Thumbs Up ……….. Facepalm Beer Beer …….. 2024+ ??

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FlashPilot wrote:
DBSAR wrote:
That is planned, for the LT2. four 21700 capability, with power bank, 3rd red LED channel.

My bets are this will be more vaporware, but I’ll keep my fingers crossed. Has anyone from Sofirn discussed when these might go into production?

Also, did they include you in the prototype phase, or are they going to skip that and move ahead by themselves (as they have done with subsequent LT1 changes)?

Barry of Sofirn has been in contact with me much more lately for future designs, as everyone know i was in a bit of a hiatus during my move and illness the past year. Lux-Perpetua has introduced a design based from my original LT1-Mini & refined in the design group chat, and things are looking positive for the LT1-Mini, LT1-Compact, and LT2/21700 versions.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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DBSAR wrote:
FlashPilot wrote:
DBSAR wrote:
That is planned, for the LT2. four 21700 capability, with power bank, 3rd red LED channel.

My bets are this will be more vaporware, but I’ll keep my fingers crossed. Has anyone from Sofirn discussed when these might go into production?

Also, did they include you in the prototype phase, or are they going to skip that and move ahead by themselves (as they have done with subsequent LT1 changes)?

Barry of Sofirn has been in contact with me much more lately for future designs, as everyone know i was in a bit of a hiatus during my move and illness the past year. Lux-Perpetua has introduced a design based from my original LT1-Mini & refined in the design group chat, and things are looking positive for the LT1-Mini, LT1-Compact, and LT2/21700 versions.

Thanks for the update. I hope you are feeling much better these days and life has returned (more or less) to normal.

It looks like the 8 × 18650 LT1 adapter never got off the ground. Its too bad that such a cost effective, simple and useful add-on made it through the prototype stage but never went into production. Id have purchased several. I always wondered what the LT1 and possible upcoming variants and accessories might have been if they had been produced by Astrolux or Convoy. Ah well… Im still very pleased with my collection of LT1’s and they see a great deal of use. Thanks again to all who were involved. Thumbs Up

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DBSAR wrote:
That is planned, for the LT2. four 21700 capability, with power bank, 3rd red LED channel.

A more simple user interface like one button for mode change, one for brightness change and one on/off-switch would be awesome.
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angerdan wrote:
DBSAR wrote:
That is planned, for the LT2. four 21700 capability, with power bank, 3rd red LED channel.

A more simple user interface like one button for mode change, one for brightness change and one on/off-switch would be awesome.

In Anduril 2, there is a Simple Mode feature… Still by using 1 button as opposed to your 3 button request, but more in line with the usual kind of UI found in most lights.
CR888
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*DBSAR WROTE*****
[/quote]
That is planned, for the LT2. four 21700 capability, with power bank, 3rd red LED channel.[/quote]
That sounds awesome! I’m using my LT1 right now, I use it pretty much everyday. Would love a bigger LT2 but I am thinking big getting the new orange LT1 just because. They are such good value.

CR888

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FlashPilot wrote:

Thanks for the update. I hope you are feeling much better these days and life has returned (more or less) to normal.

It looks like the 8 × 18650 LT1 adapter never got off the ground. Its too bad that such a cost effective, simple and useful add-on made it through the prototype stage but never went into production. Id have purchased several. I always wondered what the LT1 and possible upcoming variants and accessories might have been if they had been produced by Astrolux or Convoy. Ah well… Im still very pleased with my collection of LT1’s and they see a great deal of use. Thanks again to all who were involved. Thumbs Up

I liked that 8 × 18650 adapter as well, i was thinking of designing a larger “ wider” battery tube, to hold up to 8 – 18650s in parallel, and would ad stability to the LT1 lantern head. ( and look much like how the base/tank of a Coleman gas lantern is. * Hey Barry! are you listening to these ideas? Big Smile make it a reality!

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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DBSAR wrote:

I liked that 8 × 18650 adapter as well, i was thinking of designing a larger “ wider” battery tube, to hold up to 8 – 18650s in parallel, and would ad stability to the LT1 lantern head. ( and look much like how the base/tank of a Coleman gas lantern is. * Hey Barry! are you listening to these ideas? Big Smile make it a reality!

This is a great idea

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DBSAR wrote:
FlashPilot wrote:

Thanks for the update. I hope you are feeling much better these days and life has returned (more or less) to normal.

It looks like the 8 × 18650 LT1 adapter never got off the ground. Its too bad that such a cost effective, simple and useful add-on made it through the prototype stage but never went into production. Id have purchased several. I always wondered what the LT1 and possible upcoming variants and accessories might have been if they had been produced by Astrolux or Convoy. Ah well… Im still very pleased with my collection of LT1’s and they see a great deal of use. Thanks again to all who were involved. Thumbs Up

I liked that 8 × 18650 adapter as well, i was thinking of designing a larger “ wider” battery tube, to hold up to 8 – 18650s in parallel, and would ad stability to the LT1 lantern head. ( and look much like how the base/tank of a Coleman gas lantern is. * Hey Barry! are you listening to these ideas? Big Smile make it a reality!

So possibly a large 8 × 18650 base that would screw onto the existing 4 × 18650 LT1 (for a total of 12 × 18650). That is ingenious and I like the way you think. And of course, Id buy several! That would also make for a great high capacity power bank.

Admittedly, my vintage Coleman lantern collecting obsession has reached new heights. All attributable to my inability to restrain myself from acquiring these finger burning photon emitters.

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Just stumbled on this thread – fantastic project and glad to read that OP’s personal life has gotten better Thumbs Up

An all-aluminium body and High CRI neutral white emitter, these are just the sorts of things I’m looking for in a lamp Love

As an Eneloop user, I’ll be on the lookout for the LT1-AA version.

Keep up the good work Beer

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Ok I received the my lantern I used https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097MN6P1B?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details and purchased the “New LT1 Kit”

It has a green light and has the following:
https://imgur.com/1g4tRqd

Presumably this is the latest rev?

azur2
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Could anyone please help me out, my lantern’s light output gradually decreases in time? I factory reset by unscrewing and holding the button for 4 seconds while rescrewing the body back. Then I double checked by doing 13H for the factory reset in Andruil 2.0. I then changed the tint to bright white by 3H, but the issue that when the light is on the lamp decreases the brightness until the lamp is off after 2 second increments!

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The batteries are charged and protective covers removed? Did you try other batteries or measured the ones that came with it with a DMM?

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azur2 wrote:
Could anyone please help me out, my lantern’s light output gradually decreases in time? I factory reset by unscrewing and holding the button for 4 seconds while rescrewing the body back. Then I double checked by doing 13H for the factory reset in Andruil 2.0. I then changed the tint to bright white by 3H, but the issue that when the light is on the lamp decreases the brightness until the lamp is off after 2 second increments!

That is odd.. never seen that happen before. Maybe Toykeeper or Barry can chime in on that.. if the driver is defective, contact Sofirn i’m sure they will help! – DB

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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azur2 wrote:
Could anyone please help me out, my lantern’s light output gradually decreases in time? I factory reset by unscrewing and holding the button for 4 seconds while rescrewing the body back. Then I double checked by doing 13H for the factory reset in Andruil 2.0. I then changed the tint to bright white by 3H, but the issue that when the light is on the lamp decreases the brightness until the lamp is off after 2 second increments!

This sounds like a weak battery (getting “low-batt” or “empty”), but if the batteries are not “low-batt” (can check using the triple-click from Off for “Battery Voltage Check” function).

If batteries are not “low-batt” (not nearing 3.0v), then it could be some poor contact issue (fully-charged batteries might be detected as “weak” due to poor contact somewhere — sometimes it could be due to an o-ring that’s entangled and interfering with the contacts).

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So … What model to order ??

Emisar d1s 3a. ZL sc700d,sc64w hi,H600c,Streamlight tlr1-hl, Astrolux mfo1s 4k/purple. Olight I3t Eos black. Ylp 2m cri.ZL sc64le, k1 xhp35 hi in 4k.

azur2
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Finally managed to figure out how to reset the lamp. I fully charged it, then had to unscrew it and hold the button down for 4 seconds. The manual had this kinda hidden and not well marked out on how to reset the lamp.

I hear a lot of people like to set the light to 4000k. How do you all set it to a specific color temp? Do you just ramp up to 5000k, release then hold it back down for 1 second and approximate that as 4000k? It would be nice if it ‘clicked’ at 500k increments.

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Approximate it. See how long it takes to go from one end of the ramp to the other, and do half that.

Or better yet, don’t worry about the exact temperature. Just set it for what looks right in the current context. During the early evening when the sun has set but there is still a fair amount of glow from scattered light in the sky, I might set it all the way at the 5000K end of the ramp. As the ambient fade, especially if I have a campfire going, I adjust it progressively warmer.

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I have the one with the version 5.0 driver. The firmware was updated from Andril to Anduril 2.0.

The flashing key/pogo pins did not work. I had to remove the driver and use the SOIC clip. It was successful. It is all good. The flashing kit with this flashing key/pogo pins works on other lights, so the problem seems to be in the light itself. Other than that, there is no problem. Everything works.

I am curious what I did wrong. The error showed the connections were not good. Has anybody had the similar experience?

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I just received a version 5.0 from Amazon. Am I missing any functionality / feature by not having the latest driver? Perhaps I should order from Sofirn instead? Thanks!

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DBSAR wrote:
That is planned, for the LT2. four 21700 capability, with power bank, 3rd red LED channel.

Take my money!

I really hope that project comes together. Having a 3rd red channel is the one thing I’d really love to see. It makes it useful for so many additional applications where red is required: stargazing, sailing, avoiding bugs, etc. (Yes, I know that requiring red is a hotly debated topic, but lots of groups still require it, and it’s easier just to go with the flow and have a red light.)

The power bank feature would also be nice with 21700s, you could get a nice 20 Ah (~72 Wh) capacity with that. I don’t find I’m ever lacking for run time on the LT1, but including a power bank would make that extra capacity really nice.

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Quick update. My “Sofirn 1.0” Powerbank LT1 does not charge my iPhone with a USB C-A adapter. But it will charge my Wurkkos FC11 with that adapter.

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DrBashir wrote:
Quick update. My "Sofirn 1.0" Powerbank LT1 does not charge my iPhone with a USB C-A adapter. But it will charge my Wurkkos FC11 with that adapter.

Did you try using a USB-C to Apple Lightning cable when charging your iPhone? I suppose the iPhone‘s chipset expects a special code in order to start charging. When you use a type A to type C adapter in between, the chipset communication between LT1 and iPhone might become corrupted.

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Lux-Perpetua wrote:

Did you try using a USB-C to Apple Lightning cable when charging your iPhone? I suppose the iPhone‘s chipset expects a special code in order to start charging. When you use a type A to type C adapter in between, the chipset communication between LT1 and iPhone might become corrupted.

I don’t have one, but will see if I can borrow one to test. I did wonder about that, but also felt like if it normally charges from USB-A it isn’t expecting a whole lot. This is a topic I’m totally clueless on though.

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madcrow wrote:
Lux-Perpetua wrote:

I try to persuade Barry to revise the indicator scheme as follows:


Green: Lantern fully charged


Green blinking: Lantern being charged


Blue steady: Lantern in reverse charge mode (powerbank mode)


Blue blinking: Low voltage 


Amber: Standby switch illumination (off/low/high/beacon) as usual in older revisions of LT1

Coincidentally, this is exactly how I want to rewire mine at the moment Smile

Well, sh*t… As it turns out, a DIY modification of the indicator LED color scheme might be a bit more difficult than I anticipated:

I was hoping the reassignment of LEDs would be possible by simply swapping some of the wires connecting the driver (BLF-LT1-A2) and switch PCBs. Or at worst case, swapping the SMD LEDs themselves on the switch PCB assembly. Plus if necessary, replacing the current limiting resistors. The datasheet of the powerbank IC also supported this theory.
Boy, was I wrong, though…
Here is the reverse-engineered schematic of the switch assy and its connections to the driver PCB:

The circled numbers denote the identically numbered wires between the driver and switch PCB

As you can see, the LEDs controlled by the PB controller are connected antiparallel to each other and driven sort of “differentially”. Which makes wire swapping not feasible.
What’s even worse, the blue and amber LEDs Sofirn chose are in fact not separate components. They are part of the same 0606-size duo-LED. (The green one on the other hand, is a plain 0603 single-color led.)

The different package sizes and the fact that the blue and amber LEDs are integrated means swapping the existing LEDs around is also out of the question.

At this point, the “easiest” option left is to buy new LEDs, 2 duo and 2 single with the colors you want, and replace the current ones with them. If you’re determined enough to do that, and you intend to use a hot air soldering iron for the removal part, be careful not to melt the tact switch (wall it off with Kapton tape or aluminium foil), as the clearances are awfully tiny here… If I were to go ahead with this mod, I think I’d just use 2 normal irons (or an SMD tweezer iron) instead, just to be safe.
Here are some examples of applicable replacements for the duo led:
https://uk.farnell.com/kingbright/kptb-1615surkcgkc/led-red-green-80-50mcd-smd/dp/2426238
https://uk.farnell.com/kingbright/kptb-1615esgc/led-red-green-7-12mcd-smd/dp/2426236
https://uk.farnell.com/lumex/sml-lx0606igc-tr/led-1-5mm-x-1-2mm-red-green-smd/dp/1789153
https://uk.farnell.com/dialight/598-8410-207cf/led-red-green-65-59mcd-633-570nm/dp/3548426
https://uk.farnell.com/w/search?led-colour=red-green&packaging=cuttape&st=150066
If you live in luckier parts of the world where the really big distributors (Digikey, Mouser, etc.) do not have absolutely ridiculous shipping fees, you might find more options.
Unfortunately, I am pretty much stuck with Farnell, and in the applicable package size, I found only the handful of LEDs above in their catalog.

Fun fact: the indicator LED driver configuration utilized in the LT1 is not documented at all in the IP5310 datasheet. Its 2-LED mode is supposed to drive the LEDs in a basic single ended configuration, with no series (current limiting) resistors, since the IP5310 itself has integrated current regulators:

So either Sofirn decided to use the driver “in a creative way”, or it is an intended, but undocumented feature of the IP5310, borrowed from its bigger brothers which support differential LED drive natively.
What I still cannot wrap my head around though is why the engineer at Sofirn chose to implement the LED drive this way in the first place. The usual argument for the differential approach is to save an extra wire (no dedicated GND needed).
Bun the LT1’s switch PCB needs a GND wire anyway for the switch and the green LED, so in our case the number of wires connecting the 2 PCBs were not reduced… It is also strange they went for the blue-and-amber duo LEDs, which are rather exotic, and I imagine more difficult and expensive to source, instead of the more ubiquitous red-and-green ones combined with standalone amber LEDs. I guess we’ll never know…

Anyway, happy modding! Wink

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