What did you mod today?

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Haukkeli
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MoreLumens wrote:
I doubt there is Goof Off! around Europe, so what about CRC Brakleen? Brake cleaner, removes all kind of grease easily, not sure about leds, maybe too effective?

I use brake cleaner when cleaning dirty emitters and flashlight parts. Contact cleaner works also. Brake cleaner is effective when removing excess soldering residues from pcb’s.
nottawhackjob
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Haukkeli wrote:
MoreLumens wrote:
I doubt there is Goof Off! around Europe, so what about CRC Brakleen? Brake cleaner, removes all kind of grease easily, not sure about leds, maybe too effective?
I use brake cleaner when cleaning dirty emitters and flashlight parts. Contact cleaner works also. Brake cleaner is effective when removing excess soldering residues from pcb’s.

It may work butt it can also harm certain plastic finishes and coatings. It’s a gamble. That’s why they use it on not so delicate brakes and not delicate electronic components. Contact spray is safest, less toxic, and much easier to deal with if it gets on ya or yer clothing – stink wise.

I think brake cleaner to clean dirty emitters and associated parts is kinda well, plain
overkill. LOL Sick Shocked

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

Haukkeli
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Well, that might be. I think they are chemically quite close. They even smell the same and both evaporate very fast.

MoreLumens
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Brake cleaner evaporates pretty quickly, kinda like isopropyl alcohol. Yeah there is warnings about using it on certain surfaces, but haven’t found any plastic yet that would melt by it. It has pretty unique smell on it. Not like you should snuff it. Big Smile
Still, I got that and not enough brakes to clean so good to know that I could use it at electronics too if needed, with extra caution.

Haukkeli
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I checked from my spray bottles, so that I don’t spread false information. Brake cleaner and Electric cleaner both have kerosene as a base component. Brake cleaner also has small amount of acetone and benzol. Less than 1%.

mattlward
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Regarding break cleaner… be aware in the US there are green and red cans. The green, if I remember correctly, is non-chlorinated and the red is chlorinated. The red is the one that you need to worry about around plastics, but it is a much better solvent. I use both on firearms and only green on lights and electronics. I have see the red make plastic gummy and change colors.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

nottawhackjob
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Haukkeli wrote:
I checked from my spray bottles, so that I don’t spread false information. Brake cleaner and Electric cleaner both have kerosene as a base component. Brake cleaner also has small amount of acetone and benzol. Less than 1%.

Bottom line is that if the spray yer using doesn’t say, “Safe for Plastics”, yer gambling. High quality electronic contact sprays will typically say that. And I don’t care watt anybody sez, electronic contact sprays tend to evaporate faster and leave no residues. Evaporating faster means ya also have less of a chance shorting something out cuz ya got impatient to fire things up. Shocked

I’d have to be pretty dam hard up to use brake cleaner on an emitter or PCB that’ s fer sure. LOL

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

Sari33
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Have contact spray From CRC but don’t evaporate.Maybe not right for dedoming
I use it on switchs and contact points to avoid oxidation and increase cross current,it work well.
For this Led I’ll try again petroleum for lighters.
For dedome SSt-20 what about Acetone? Should be more aggressive,so maybe less time to wait.

MoreLumens
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Sari33 wrote:
For dedome SSt-20 what about Acetone? Should be more aggressive,so maybe less time to wait.

Why not slicing it? Seems safer and leaves some dome to protect the wires?

Haukkeli
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nottawhackjob wrote:
Haukkeli wrote:
I checked from my spray bottles, so that I don’t spread false information. Brake cleaner and Electric cleaner both have kerosene as a base component. Brake cleaner also has small amount of acetone and benzol. Less than 1%.

Bottom line is that if the spray yer using doesn’t say, “Safe for Plastics”, yer gambling. High quality electronic contact sprays will typically say that. And I don’t care watt anybody sez, electronic contact sprays tend to evaporate faster and leave no residues. Evaporating faster means ya also have less of a chance shorting something out cuz ya got impatient to fire things up. Shocked

I’d have to be pretty dam hard up to use brake cleaner on an emitter or PCB that’ s fer sure. LOL

No problem. I just told my own experience. No one has to do as I do.

nottawhackjob
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Sari33 wrote:
Have contact spray From CRC but don’t evaporate.Maybe not right for dedoming I use it on switchs and contact points to avoid oxidation and increase cross current,it work well. For this Led I’ll try again petroleum for lighters. For dedome SSt-20 what about Acetone? Should be more aggressive,so maybe less time to wait.

Huh? CRC QD Contact Cleaner doesn’t evaporate? News to me. Facepalm

It evaporates. Maybe not the absolute fastest butt it evaporates plenty fast enuff.

The fastest evaporative contact cleaner I almost exclusively use is, Puretronics Contact Cleaner. Stock No. 3500. Relatively cheap yet absolutely fantastic stuff. Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Grad

One other tip: Take a can of compressed air, hold the can only horizontally, and after ya spray the contact cleaner over your partially dedomed led, give it a blast or two of air.

This will clear out tiny particles of dome material from the phosphor and any remaining contact spray will get blown out too. Thumbs Up Grad

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

Sari33
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nottawhackjob wrote:
Sari33 wrote:
Have contact spray From CRC but don’t evaporate.Maybe not right for dedoming I use it on switchs and contact points to avoid oxidation and increase cross current,it work well. For this Led I’ll try again petroleum for lighters. For dedome SSt-20 what about Acetone? Should be more aggressive,so maybe less time to wait.

Huh? CRC QD Contact Cleaner doesn’t evaporate? News to me. Facepalm

It evaporates. Maybe not the absolute fastest butt it evaporates plenty fast enuff.

The fastest evaporative contact cleaner I almost exclusively use is, Puretronics Contact Cleaner. Stock No. 3500. Relatively cheap yet fantastic stuff. Grad

One other tip: Take a can of compressed air, hold the can only horizontally, and after ya spray the contact cleaner over your partially dedomed led, give it a blast or two of air.

This will clear out tiny particles of dome material from the phosphor and any remaining contact spray will get blown out too. Thumbs Up Grad


My CRC it’s another old product called “electro”.Not a specific contact cleaner as you said and guarented doesn’t evaporate,infact he still where I had applied
But I“ll try also your method
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nottawhackjob wrote:
Huh? CRC QD Contact Cleaner doesn’t evaporate? News to me. Facepalm

Some contact cleaners have a light oil in it to a) act as a lube and b) lightly coat the contacts to prevent corrosion/oxidation.

Dunno from that particular brand.

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Finally I can use my chemistry degree. The base of an LED should be ceramic. The dome should be clear epoxy or clear epoxy with bismaleimide-based polymers added for strength and heat resistance. The Phosphorus is probably vapor deposited with Silicon “the element, not the gooey stuff” I’d say some of the harshest solvents out there should be fine. Of course I’ve been out of a lab for 27+ years.

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texas shooter wrote:
Finally I can use my chemistry degree. The base of an LED should be ceramic. The dome should be clear epoxy or clear epoxy with bismaleimide-based polymers added for strength and heat resistance. The Phosphorus is probably vapor deposited with Silicon “the element, not the gooey stuff” I’d say some of the harshest solvents out there should be fine. Of course I’ve been out of a lab for 27+ years.

Some datasheets mention the materials used, Nichia’s for example and the dome is made of silicone, Cree presentation about dome and domeless LEDs mentions it too.

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Looks great in orange though!

Did you drill out a reflector for this or find one somewhere?

Haukkeli
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I used lathe and centerdrill.

Haukkeli
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It is little bit darker, so I finally took beamshot of S21A with GT-FC40 4000-4500K led. Distance is about 3 meters.

texas shooter
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thefreeman wrote:
texas shooter wrote:
Finally I can use my chemistry degree. The base of an LED should be ceramic. The dome should be clear epoxy or clear epoxy with bismaleimide-based polymers added for strength and heat resistance. The Phosphorus is probably vapor deposited with Silicon “the element, not the gooey stuff” I’d say some of the harshest solvents out there should be fine. Of course I’ve been out of a lab for 27+ years.

Some datasheets mention the materials used, Nichia’s for example and the dome is made of silicone, Cree presentation about dome and domeless LEDs mentions it too.

Then have at it, the silicone should easily be removed with harsh chemicals without harming the substrata. Less harsh try Vinegar and isopropyl alcohol with good long soaks.

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Gasoline, AcMe, MEK, etc., all work fine without eating at the phosphors.

Hard to get the stank of gasoline out if you use that, though.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

nottawhackjob
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Lightbringer wrote:
nottawhackjob wrote:
Huh? CRC QD Contact Cleaner doesn’t evaporate? News to me. Facepalm

Some contact cleaners have a light oil in it to a) act as a lube and b) lightly coat the contacts to prevent corrosion/oxidation.

Dunno from that particular brand.

If the can sez……“Leaves No Residue”, then yer good to go. Those that don’t, caveat emptor.

CRC QD Contact Cleaner says exactly that. And I can vouch for it when sprayed on glass. No residue.

On the front of the 11 oz blue spray can in largish white lettering….

Quick Drying Formula
Leaves No Residue
Plastic Safe

On the back, I see no petroleum distillates in the ingredients or silicone type lubes either.

I only mention CRC QD cuz it’s uber conveniently available at Home Depot and it’s cheap. Thumbs Up

PS. No residue contact cleaners shouldn’t stink during application nor after it dries.

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

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Haukkeli wrote:
It is little bit darker, so I finally took beamshot of S21A with GT-FC40 4000-4500K led. Distance is about 3 meters. !https://abload.de/img/img_20210722_2345422rpjka.jpg![/quote] 

 

 

 

Thx!

 That’s way better than my xhp70

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

loveca1988
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Hello
has anyone modified Led Lenser H8R

Sari33
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Lightbringer wrote:
Gasoline, AcMe, MEK, etc., all work fine without eating at t Big Smile he phosphors.

Hard to get the stank of gasoline out if you use that, though.


Good to know Thumbs Up
Didn’t know “Acme” was a real brand,looked it on Road Runner cartoon when I was kid Big Smile
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Sari33 wrote:
Lightbringer wrote:
Gasoline, AcMe, MEK, etc., all work fine without eating at t Big Smile he phosphors.
Didn’t know “Acme” was a real brand,looked it on Road Runner cartoon when I was kid Big Smile

NNNOOOonnononono, nono.

AcMe as in acetone. (Like AcOH would be vinegar.)

“Nail-polish remover”, at least the most common one, ‘though ethyl acetate, EtOAc, is pretty common, too.

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Haukkeli
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Inspired by this discussion about chemicals and dedoming I did few tests. I put WD40 and brakecleaner in small container. Those small plastic cases that Simon uses when he sends emitters.

I put sliced Xhp70.2’s in both of them. WD40 hardly did anything in 24 hours but brake cleaner did this in 10 hours:

Seems promising. Let’s keep experimenting. (Grey stuff is just leftover thermal paste)

Haukkeli
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After testing the emitter works fine. Sadly this one has had some strange behaviour before, and after this harsh bath it hasn’t improved. 1 of 4 diodes is cooler colored than the others and it also has afterglow for a few seconds. It’s like 5000-6000K and others are 4000K as they are supposed to be. It also lits up in lower voltages than other 3.

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If you do a search on “dedome” in BLF, you will get lots of interesting and informative posts. Brave members experimenting with different methods!

Here’s one example: 100% Perfect dedome method

Not sure if there is the best liquid that works for all LEDs since manufacturers all make their LEDs differently.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

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On the subject of aromatic solvents, does anyone know of an epoxy (the cured hard type) solvent?

Have a very small amount to remove from a watch mechanism. Can’t scrape this off and immersion of the whole spring/ escapement is not an option. But I could wrap it in some gauze and light plastic film to let it do its thing.

Tried Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK), Acetone (diMethyl Ketone), Methylene Chloride (Acrylic solvent / one of the ingredients of paint stripper).

Google search – bad results; easy to remove uncured resin. Nothing really tested about cured stuff. I mean, isopropyl, methyl or ethyl alcohol, paint thinner (usually kerosene), lacquer thinner (which is mostly MEK but some variants having more volatiles), and citrus-based cleaners as GooGone just makes an oily mess. No success on some test pieces.

Hadn’t tried gasoline – smelly, although very active solvent.

texas shooter
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Methylene chloride for Epoxy. 5% sulfuric acid or sodium hydroxide for polyester resin. Dichloromethane warmed to 40C for a few hours. Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) I used for removing cured epoxy on pcb’s. It’s the same chemical your Kidney’s release that make that awful morning piss smell.

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