Looks great in orange though!
Did you drill out a reflector for this or find one somewhere?
I used lathe and centerdrill.
It is little bit darker, so I finally took beamshot of S21A with GT-FC40 4000-4500K led. Distance is about 3 meters.
Then have at it, the silicone should easily be removed with harsh chemicals without harming the substrata. Less harsh try Vinegar and isopropyl alcohol with good long soaks.
Gasoline, AcMe, MEK, etc., all work fine without eating at the phosphors.
Hard to get the stank of gasoline out if you use that, though.
If the can sez……“Leaves No Residue”, then yer good to go. Those that don’t, caveat emptor.
CRC QD Contact Cleaner says exactly that. And I can vouch for it when sprayed on glass. No residue.
On the front of the 11 oz blue spray can in largish white lettering….
Quick Drying Formula
Leaves No Residue
Plastic Safe
On the back, I see no petroleum distillates in the ingredients or silicone type lubes either.
I only mention CRC QD cuz it’s uber conveniently available at Home Depot and it’s cheap. :+1:
PS. No residue contact cleaners shouldn’t stink during application nor after it dries.
Thx!
That’s way better than my xhp70
Hello
has anyone modified Led Lenser H8R
Good to know :+1:
Didn’t know “Acme” was a real brand,looked it on Road Runner cartoon when I was kid 
NNNOOOonnononono, nono.
AcMe as in acetone. (Like AcOH would be vinegar.)
“Nail-polish remover”, at least the most common one, ’though ethyl acetate, EtOAc, is pretty common, too.
Inspired by this discussion about chemicals and dedoming I did few tests. I put WD40 and brakecleaner in small container. Those small plastic cases that Simon uses when he sends emitters.
I put sliced Xhp70.2’s in both of them. WD40 hardly did anything in 24 hours but brake cleaner did this in 10 hours:
Seems promising. Let’s keep experimenting. (Grey stuff is just leftover thermal paste)
After testing the emitter works fine. Sadly this one has had some strange behaviour before, and after this harsh bath it hasn’t improved. 1 of 4 diodes is cooler colored than the others and it also has afterglow for a few seconds. It’s like 5000-6000K and others are 4000K as they are supposed to be. It also lits up in lower voltages than other 3.
If you do a search on “dedome” in BLF, you will get lots of interesting and informative posts. Brave members experimenting with different methods!
Here’s one example: 100% Perfect dedome method
Not sure if there is the best liquid that works for all LEDs since manufacturers all make their LEDs differently.
On the subject of aromatic solvents, does anyone know of an epoxy (the cured hard type) solvent?
Have a very small amount to remove from a watch mechanism. Can’t scrape this off and immersion of the whole spring/ escapement is not an option. But I could wrap it in some gauze and light plastic film to let it do its thing.
Tried Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK), Acetone (diMethyl Ketone), Methylene Chloride (Acrylic solvent / one of the ingredients of paint stripper).
Google search – bad results; easy to remove uncured resin. Nothing really tested about cured stuff. I mean, isopropyl, methyl or ethyl alcohol, paint thinner (usually kerosene), lacquer thinner (which is mostly MEK but some variants having more volatiles), and citrus-based cleaners as GooGone just makes an oily mess. No success on some test pieces.
Hadn’t tried gasoline – smelly, although very active solvent.
Methylene chloride for Epoxy. 5% sulfuric acid or sodium hydroxide for polyester resin. Dichloromethane warmed to 40C for a few hours. Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) I used for removing cured epoxy on pcb’s. It’s the same chemical your Kidney’s release that make that awful morning piss smell.
Ketone solvents including Nitro thinner should give cleanest and fastest result with less tint shift.
I have some old xp-e to be sacriced
Cree leds can be dedomed with anything, but I will be all ears if good results are reported with Luminus leds.
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Please let me know your method.
Tried non chemichal way on LB led,pre heating and blade.
The dome come out but also phospors :person_facepalming:
I tried Methylene Chloride but was disappointed. In no way dissolved the Epoxy.
H2SO4 or NaOH can’t use on precision watch parts - substrate of aluminium and/or brass.
MEK has no effect on my test pieces.
Dichloromethane is Methylene Chloride. This boils at 39.6ºC.
Now if you soften the cured epoxy with these products and then scrap them off, perhaps. But I’m looking for a solvent.
So maybe the solvents aren’t what is written on their containers or my chemistry is wrong. The Methylene Chloride is clearly labelled as such, IIRC. Used for acrylic fusion from a plastic modelling company. The MEK is a principal ingredient in lacquer thinner (from the can label as MSDS – commercial packaging).
I always thought Uric acid was the nasty morning pee smell.
Simply swap led in Trustfire T4, days ago. Put cslnm1.tg in it but the result is worse than I expected. Seems like the reflector is not suit for this led, the beam lost too much light to corona around hotspot.
I tried to upload pics on Imgure all day but still can’t until now. I will post it later if Imgure let me upload them.
I might try to change led again later to a more floody higher lumen led .
O K. I uploaded them.
