A 72w PID Soldering Iron with a reduced feature set at a very low price. With a possible safety hazard that can be corrected.
I bought this last week on Amazon during a flash sale for $17. It’s now up to $20.
https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Function-Adjustable-Temperature-Ergonomic/dp/B08NDH4Q2T?ref=deals_deals_deals-grid_slot-15_8a28_dt_dcell_vdt_334_73179620
It was shipped in a plastic envelope. Inside was the cardboard box containing the kit.
Included is the power supply/temp control, a handle, two T12 compatible tips, tool holder with brass tip cleaning pad, second holder to attach to (?), ground strap, sponge, Allan key (for ?), some stick on feet, instructions, and a computer type power cord.
The Instructions – Not
The instruction sheet is a single pair of pages. Each about the size of a business card. Other than directions as to how to apply the stick on feet, press the temperature adjustment knob to adjust the specific temperature (whatever that means), and few hints at something else – That’s about it.
Actually I’m most impressed with the press it was printed on. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a 0.25 point type size before. Bring your magnifier! In one of the tiny pics I see the second iron holder attached to the main chassis. But no indication of how to do this.
It’s apparent from the Amazon ad that this thing has various functions. Good luck with that. There is no mention of them in the instructions.
I have asked (twice) on the Amazon site about instructions. Neither seems to have made it to the actual questions section. They seem to have vanished mysteriously. Hummm…
The instructions indicate that there is a “Sleep Mode Socket” plug on the back.
That does – And I quote “After inserting the hole, the connecting bracket can be put to sleep“
Well, the only thing included that fits there is the banana plug ground strap.
Inside the chassis this plug is isolated from the chassis and is connected directly to the ground of the PC board and the (earth) ground for the 120v wall cord.
This iron only has a 3 digit display. The more expensive ~ $90 irons have multi character displays that make using the kit way easier. But you pay for that convenience.
What I have discovered…
Pressing and holding in the temp button – puts you into the “P” menu.
So far:
P0 – P3 Unknown. I’ll bet the tip type and calibration are hidden in here.
P4 – Temp adjustment steps. 0 (Lock Temp?), 5, 10 degrees
P5 – Auto Sleep Timer, 0 (never), 1 – 60 minutes
P6 – Auto Shut down Timer – 0 (never) or 1-180 minutes
P7 – Unknown
P8 – Wake Up Method – 0 = Shake and Dial, 1 = Dial only
P9 – Temp Boost Amount – Set the degrees to boost the tip temp when activated
P10 – Temp Boost Duration – Set the amount of time to boost the temp – 10 – 250 Seconds
P11 – Unknown
P12 – Beep – 0 = On, 1 = Off
On the more expensive units it is possible to set the tip type in the menu. I assume one of the unlisted “P”s does the same. Along with temp calibration and ???
Unfortunately I have yet to discover any other info on the Handskit version.
Using the Iron
The tips slip into the holder with just a bit of pushing required. The two included tips are a fine needle point (type BL) and a diagonal knife point (type K).
These heat up PDQ. From off to melting 60/40 solder takes about 10-12 seconds. The display shows the current tip temp. The unit beeps when the desired temp is reached.
Spin the dial to adjust the temp from 200C to 480C. The thing has memory, so at next power up it returns to the last used temp.
When the iron goes to sleep, the temp drops to 200C. When waking up, it heats to the desired temp very quickly (2-3 seconds). This is a useful feature to extend the life of the tip.
Sometimes you just got to get a bit more juice. Pressing the dial starts the boost temp cycle. Quickly the iron will heat by the amount set in the boost setting. Then it will return to the normal temp after the cycle is finished.
Button Pressing
Sometimes pressing the button seems to do something else. What? Got me… A second or third press sets things right again.
Iron Holding Thingies
The spring looking things that hold the hot iron do not allow the iron to seat to any great depth. I would like a more secure hold.
Is it warm in here or ?
The tip holder gets warm during use. So far it’s not been too hot to use.
Safety
The chassis is not connected to ground. In the unlikely event that something hot inside shorts to the chassis, this box becomes 120v worth of old sparky. And the path to ground could be through you!
This is a possible danger. Looking inside we find the ground strap connection is isolated from the chassis.
The fix is to create a chassis ground connection point and connect it to the earth ground on the power plug.
Opening the Box And…
Using the included Allan key (so that’s what it’s for) and a Phillips screwdriver it’s easy to open the case. The PC board slides into some slots on the box. What did I find?
FUBAR – the PC board was mounted to the top of the chassis so that the heatsinks were pointed at the bottom. So the heat would migrate upward into the PC board.
When I put it back together, I mounted the PC board in the bottom of the case with the heat sinks facing up. This required flipping the font face plate 180. No biggie.
BTW the pics in the Amazon ad show the PC board mounted in the correct position.
So, I pulled the PC board (with the rear plate attached) out of the case. You will need to unhook the front panel connection first.
I then masked off the PC board (to keep metal shavings off the board) and drilled a hole in the rear panel to fit a #6 screw. I tapped the hole, but this isn’t necessary. I crimped short length of wire to a connector. Then attached this to the rear case plate. The other end I soldered to the ground pin on the plug. Yes I used a soldering iron to fix a soldering iron.
Scraping Bare Naked Metal
The chassis box is anodized. This is non-conductive. I scrapped the anodizing off the area where I added the ground connection. In addition I scraped the areas where the box and front/rear cover plates are joined by the screw holes. Thus making sure the entire box is connected to ground.
The front connector for the iron is also isolated by the anodizing. I loosened the mounting nut and scraped the front plate where it contacts the nut. Now the front iron connection is also connected to ground.
You can see the added chassis ground, the green wire in the image below
I buttoned it all up and powered it on. To my relief, everything worked and the magic smoke stayed inside.
During reassembly it became apparent that the second iron holder is designed to mount to the rear of the chassis via two of the Allan screws. I’m leaving it off for now.
Build quality
I’m impressed as to what you get for the money. I mean it’s not a Hakko, but the one I got isn’t falling apart like some other cheep irons I’ve seen reviewed. YMMV depending on the QC at the time other units are built. In mine the PC board was mounted upside down. Perhaps this is for the AUS-NZ market?…
So is it worth buying?
Yes I think so as long as you take the limitations into consideration. Heck, this thing is cheaper than many single temp soldering pencils. It heats fast and is temperature controlled to boot.
Add in the possibility of using one of many T12 compatible tips is just icing on the cake (or should I say flux on the joint?).
For occasional hobby use? Or a second (or third) iron to keep at another location? Go for it!
Is it better than the zillion or so other versions that sell for close to this price? Haven’t a clue. But it’s one of the lowest cost ones out there.
So, yer pays yer money and yer takes yer chances.
Make the mod to ground the chassis and away you go.
BUT – If this is going to be used a bunch, I think I’d spring for the more expensive version where there is access to, and directions for, the additional features.
What I really need is a good cheep desoldering station. I’ve got a spring loaded solder sucker, but I’d like something better. If the price was right.
Any of you found a cheep one that works?
All the Best,
Jeff