If I can find them (we moved recently), I have some 2700K LH351 LEDs from Sofirn that I really like.
Ahh, I see, going for that foglight look. Should be a similar brightness I believe. Keeping the dome on it I assume? Looked the LED up online and it seems like the silicone dome and the phosphor are all mixed together and there wouldn’t be a way to dedome it without destroying it in the process. Anyway, what would be another good option to throw into this light if all I wanted was to make it throw even further? Maybe an SST40? Though, that might require extensive modding such as replacing the driver etc… I’m a newbie to mods btw, never modded a light before, but if I was to mod a light, it’d definitely be this one since it’s so cheap… and it seems worth modding too!
Fantastic. Anxiously awaiting…this light is calling me for some strange reason….
Should definitely just pull the trigger, since it’s so dang cheap, you really won’t be disappointed. The quality is excellent. Good machining, good anodizing, the knurling feels and looks very good, the light feels nice and balanced in your hand, has a good feeling weight to it. Also, the included lanyard is of impressively high quality, very thick and plush on the part that goes around your wrist, the Lumintop lettering looks nice on it as well and it has a very good locking piece with a button on it for adjusting how taut you want the lanyard, as opposed to the usual piece of plastic that just goes up and down without a locking mechanism. MUCH better than Nitecore’s lanyards that tend to wear pretty easily at the attachment point. A great part of how they designed this light is that the lanyard hole doesn’t interfere much with the light’s tailstanding, so long as you just push the thread out to the side as opposed to under the tailcap. Also, Rusty Joe. would you mind sharing the link here in this thread once you do your review? Is there a way to actually tag people in this forum? Usually in other forums the brings up a list of members from which you can type in to narrow it down and then click on the host you wanna tag, but it doesn’t seem to be the case here. Hmmm, the “at” symbol seems to just be either making the font change or and just disappearing into thin air as well.
Wth is going on here? lol
Sure will.
Nice review - reading it convinced me to get a D2 - but I have a question for you emitter experts….
If I spend the extra $10 (and wait) to get one from Lumintop that has the Nichia 219CT emitter, will the throw be a lot less, or just a little less than with the Osram emitter? And do I really want to drive a 219CT emitter as hard as it is driven in a light like this? I might go with the Osram, just because the Nichia’s really aren’t meant to be pushed that hard.
Lumintop can make some very nice lights, I have one of these coming and it will probably live in my camper. Nice review
Form factor on this is near spot on for me though the head is a little too big for easy pocketing… but it throws! The emitter is not too ugly. It’s shorter than the M1 but has similar head diameter. M1 has a wonderful head to body transition which I prefer. (I am looking for an M1 mini with a side switch design FYI 
). If Tom E (?) mods it to a 4000K Anduril version I will have to PM them
Thank you, sir. Maybe the one with the Nichia comes with a different board? I would say you’d DEFINITELY be giving up a fair amount of throw if you go with the Nichia as opposed to the Osram. This reflector is actually pretty small, that’s why the throw I got from it caught me off guard. Osram has been making some pretty amazing emitters when it comes to throw. Just take a look at Fireflies’ T9R. It’s a single cell (21700) light, with a pretty beefy reflector but just a medium sized flashlight overall, nothing crazy. If you get it with the Osram CULNM1 10W emitter, you get over 1.5km of throw…. that’s SBT-90.2 territory in lights that are MUCH larger than it. You can actually get it with the SBT, but it throws much less than the Osram emitter, while also being more expensive. It IS a lot brighter though, I think the Osram only does about 900 lumens, but booy does it throw. Going back to the wanting the Nichia emitter in such a hard hitter, I honestly don’t know how hard they’re driving the LED’s, it might not really be that much. I’d speculate it’s doing like 6 amps max. The light does get pretty hot with extended turbo time but it handles it like a champ. I know this because I gave one to my mom and she left it in turbo, IN THE DAY under the hot baking sun! I quickly turned it off and scolded her and she said she was “testing it out”, and I told her testing what out?! We’re in broad daylight in a VERY hot day and you’re leaving the light on in turbo under the sun. Trying to make it fail prematurely? She was off her face so I’ll attribute it to that and let it slide but dang, it definitely shows the light can take abuse and still work like a champ (and that was with the included 18650 battery). The light was VERY hot to the touch, including the tube. Anyway, I would not worry about the Nichia, as if you’re really worried about overdriving it, you can just avoid the turbo setting or only use it for short bursts.
Thank you sir, glad the information was valuable to you :+1: You definitely won’t regret getting one of these, it’s been really fun and unexpectedly so since it exceeded my expectations.
Honestly, the pictures do it no justice. It looks bigger in pictures than it is in real life, this thing is SUPER pocketable, even in my tight jeans pockets it fits just fine. I’ve started using a fanny pack now again since I got a VERY nice looking one recently (got two actually, the same one in 2 different colors) and now I’m just throwing my lights in there along with my keys etc. I had forgotten how great it was carrying a fanny pack around, it’s so convenient.
My D2 arrived yesterday. Lumintop quality build. I really like the format of this little light. Even the half knurling on the tube is effective and comfortable in hand. I swapped out the stock 18650 cell for a Molicel 21700 P42A. Although this domed Osram is not as intense as it’s flat white siblings, it still emits a fairly defined hotspot, and excellent spill in med/hi modes. Hideous corona tint shift while white wall hunting, but unnoticeable in outdoor use. Hate the “hold for off” UI, but it’s not a big deal. Definitely worth the $21. I like it.
Mine got a driver and LED upgrade. Now running Anduril 2 with a Luxeon V2 4000K. Not too pleased with the V2 though, but it's ok.
On a 50G cell I got 7.8 amps, 1110 lumens (at 30 secs, mauuka calibrated), 44kcd. The stock LED is an oddball size between a 3535 and 4040, so couldn't use the centering piece. Fortunately I had a 3535 centering pieces that fits the reflector. I probably should have gone with a SST-20 5000K to get some throw, but with a FET based driver, I would have to be careful with the high amps. I'm using long 24 AWG LED wires now to keep the amps somewhat down.
Well, I’ll be! I literally just got two P42A’s in the mail today! Along with four of their 18650 P26A’s and WOW, I am VERY impressed with the P42A’s. Craaazy current, they made my Nitecore MH10S get hot as hell on the head on turbo without being on for even a minute. These cells put out crazy amps. (30 amps continuous, 40 amps up to 75* celcius tested by Mooch) I’d be careful with these on some lights that use drivers that can utilize the current such as my Nitecore light. I’m sure these cells could fry out LED’s with prolonged use in turbo. Haven’t been able to test the 18650’s now because they won’t fit my lights due to being flat tops and my friend having my soldering iron atm. Need to get a soldering iron so I can put some blobs of solder on those positive terminals and I think I’m gonna have some giggles with the Nitecore TM39. Gonna see how much throw I get out of that SBT-90.2 on such a compact head. I’ve seen a video of it out-throwing the original BLF GT. The dude had removed the window on the emitter and used Sony VTC6 cells. I’m not removing the window, though, that light’s too expensive for me to wanna even consider opening it without prior experience modding flashlights. Btw, I’m also not a fan of the hold for off, but meh, I got used to it very quickly and it really is no biggie. For around 20 bucks, this light is an absolute steal. I’m thinking of de-doming it in the future.
Let’s see some beamshots! Specially long range ones 
Why aren’t you pleased with the V2? Not enough throw? Don’t like the tint? Don’t like the beam pattern?
It's got the classic Luxeon issue with the hot spot - a blue ring in there and you have to be careful with keeping the amps down. The tint is nice, the output so-so, you would think it should be higher because of the low CRI - the older Luxeon V's got more output.
Received mine yesterday. I think it’s a great value, just like their Tool AA v2. Excellent quality for the price. I like the UI and mode spacing, too - and the regulated output at higher levels.
I don’t mind the beam color in real life use - I usually buy neutral or warmish tint lights, but this appeared to be only available in the US with the Osram emitter, and frankly I like the throw and focus of the hotspot, which are far narrower than my other lights. For a neutral tint and wider beam, I’ve got a TC20 V2.
Didn't take many pics, but here's what I got for now:
Stock LED, copper 20 mm MCPCB:
Stock driver:
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Trimmed to fit (rotary tool sanded), the DEL designed driver for the Convoy L4:
Using existing switch wiring - could not see a way to remove the switch retaining ring:
Again, after trimming, top view:
Used a 10K resistor, tomb stoned on pin #3, Luxeon V2 4000K 70 CRI. Used long 24 AWG LED wires, 24 AWG bypass on the tail spring.
Parasitic drain:
- 33 uA no switch LED
- 72 uA w/switch LED on low
- 202 uA w/switch LED on high
On a 50G 21700 @4.20V:
- 7.8 amps at the tail
- 1306 lumens at start, 1106 lumens at 30 secs (maukka calibrated)
- 44 kcd (420 meters)
The beam is overall nice, just a white wall bluish ring on the outer edge of the hotspot, not noticeable on turbo/max. It's really not that bad - I've seen worse in the Luxeon V original.
Well, that was a very fun/interesting read, thanks a lot for sharing, specially since u got some pictures in there. I understand all the nomenclature and all the concepts behind what you’re saying, but I’ve NEVER tinkered with electronics outside of a handful of audio system installs, but all I’ve had to do there is cut, peel and solder cables, etc. Easy stuff. Maybe I’ll finally get a multimeter and start tinkering with electronics at a higher level and then I’ll be able to talk like you, saying I tombstoned a resistor and things like that (which btw, what does it mean? That you installed it in an upward fashion as opposed to the typical laying flat kinda way I’ve typically seen em?. Flashlights would certainly be a great and fun place to start 
Yep - tombstoning, when done intentionally, is mounting it vertically because you have only one pad instead of 2. In this case, I attached a 30 AWG wire to the tip of the resistor at the top end to connect it to the switch LED. I've done many of these because the driver is either too tight on space, or it wasn't anticipated to be needing a resistor. You could put the resistor inline with the wiring but it's more stable tombstoned 
Sometimes you'll get an IC (say a resistor or cap) to tombstone unintentionally, like when you are doing hot air reflow, instead of staying down on the 2 pads, it will tip up vertically all on it's own!
Sweet! That side effect tombstone thing sounds pretty cool lol. You definitely know your stuff! Did you work on this field or did you just grab it on the side as a hobby? I’ve gathered most of my skills out of interest/hobby as opposed to from work so I can really relate to that part of learning.
I've been working in product development doing software and firmware for a long time (I do mean long...), but never got into soldering or electronics on the job, so had some help from guys at work, EE's and techs, but my experience is only from flashlights.