What did you mod today?

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Sari33
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Ketone solvents including Nitro thinner should give cleanest and fastest result with less tint shift.
I have some old xp-e to be sacriced

djozz
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Cree leds can be dedomed with anything, but I will be all ears if good results are reported with Luminus leds.

Sari33
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djozz wrote:
Cree leds can be dedomed with anything, but I will be all ears if good results are reported with Luminus leds.
.
Please let me know your method.
Tried non chemichal way on LB led,pre heating and blade.
The dome come out but also phospors Facepalm
Sidney Stratton
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texas shooter wrote:
Methylene chloride for Epoxy. 5% sulfuric acid or sodium hydroxide for polyester resin. Dichloromethane warmed to 40C for a few hours. Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) I used for removing cured epoxy on pcb’s. It’s the same chemical your Kidney’s release that make that awful morning piss smell.

I tried Methylene Chloride but was disappointed. In no way dissolved the Epoxy.
H2SO4 or NaOH can’t use on precision watch parts – substrate of aluminium and/or brass.
MEK has no effect on my test pieces.

Dichloromethane is Methylene Chloride. This boils at 39.6ºC.

Now if you soften the cured epoxy with these products and then scrap them off, perhaps. But I’m looking for a solvent.

So maybe the solvents aren’t what is written on their containers or my chemistry is wrong. The Methylene Chloride is clearly labelled as such, IIRC. Used for acrylic fusion from a plastic modelling company. The MEK is a principal ingredient in lacquer thinner (from the can label as MSDS – commercial packaging).

I always thought Uric acid was the nasty morning pee smell.

desmondkun
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Simply swap led in Trustfire T4, days ago. Put cslnm1.tg in it but the result is worse than I expected. Seems like the reflector is not suit for this led, the beam lost too much light to corona around hotspot. I tried to upload pics on Imgure all day but still can’t until now. I will post it later if Imgure let me upload them. I might try to change led again later to a more floody higher lumen led . O K. I uploaded them. http://imgur.com/gallery/h8n2b3Z

Take care of your flashlight and your flashlight will take care of you.

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djozz wrote:
Cree leds can be dedomed with anything, but I will be all ears if good results are reported with Luminus leds.

Seconded.
texas shooter
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Sidney Stratton wrote:
texas shooter wrote:
Methylene chloride for Epoxy. 5% sulfuric acid or sodium hydroxide for polyester resin. Dichloromethane warmed to 40C for a few hours. Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) I used for removing cured epoxy on pcb’s. It’s the same chemical your Kidney’s release that make that awful morning piss smell.

Dichloromethane is Methylene Chloride. This boils at 39.6ºC.

I always thought Uric acid was the nasty morning pee smell.

You’re right it does boil at 39.6 It’s been awhile since I’ve used it. However I did use it in a glass jar with a loose lid swirling it while in warm water. It kept the smell down. Fume hood only goes so far.

Google says excessive uric acid has an ammonia smell, myself I don’t remember. Eat too much fat the night before and you’ll get a little more MEK out in the morning. All the stuff I used I’m surprised I don’t have cancer. You harsh chemical users; Fume hood or outdoors not garage style but really outside. Gloves, splash guard, cotton clothes.

Sidney Stratton
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@texas shooter:

But I still don’t understand why my methylene chloride doesn’t dissolve the hardened epoxy. It’s one of the active ingredients in paint stripper (along with sodium/potassium hydroxide – the gel types). And the smell is ethereal – almost sweet.

I’ll be trying gasoline. It’s loaded with petroleum esters and although has a lingering smell, is about my last resort.

There would be some “Lepage’s glue remover” which I doubt is sold in the US. But typically these over-the-shelf concoctions are a random mix of many VOCs (volatile organic compounds) and leave many residues.

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Wellp, most epoxy is kinda by design not supposed to melt or dissolve, but I’ve seen (but haven’t really tried) using IPA and/or AcMe to loosen/dissolve it.

Try it? Both are easy enough to get even at a CVS or whatnot. “Rubbing alcohol” and “nail-polish remover”.

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nottawhackjob
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If ya can’t get it locally order online: Goof Off!

Works well on most domes. Soak overnight.

Less flammable/explosive vapor-wise. And it doesn’t leave a lingering smell on anything including fingers. Gasoline tends to. Shocked

PS. After dedoming always spray it off with No Residue contact cleaner.

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

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I attempted to open a broken Zebralight today.

I couldn’t even get the lens retaining ring off. I wasn’t able to wedge anything under it. I suspect if I want to mod one of these, I’ll have to shatter the lens, pick out the pieces, and only then be able to lever up the ring with a screwdriver.

Sidney Stratton
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Thanks all. As I originally posted, IPA and acetone have no effect.

And to LB for honestly saying he never tried those. Too many false positives about the web. There is a difference between loosening and dissolving. IPA is so mild, wouldn’t make a smear in grandma’s diapers. Acetone, very polar and volatile, doesn’t attack closed chained polymers. or most esters but for a smidge of hazing the surface because of the reaction’s oils that mitigate to the surface.

GoofOff is citrus-based oil and would not be suitable for such a delicate mechanism. I’ve once used that stuff with poor results and a mess to clean, which I’ll always never use from now on. It’s too tame and lame.

Would there not be someone with experience with esters (some chemist) on the forum?

edit;

And please don’t chime in ‘brake cleaner’ (perchloroethylene, aka PERC – dry cleaning fluid).

If you feel uncomfortable with these aromatics, don’t suppose others are as such. I’ve worked with much more “reactive” chemicals including Perchloric Acid and Antimony Pentafluoride. So none of these ‘mommy’ scares about cancer or flamability.

cetary
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I modified an Xbox One controller’s cool white LED to amber. I was using an old Xbox 360 controller for a long while. It had green emitters. It wasn’t until the joystick on my old controller started to stick that I really had to look into using the newer controller. I didn’t like the use of cool white backlighting, especially at night. It’s a good feeling experience to have a light I use so much shift to low glare amber.

Also wanted to mention, I had initially planned on using warm white 2700K, but the footprint of the planned Osram emitter wasn’t working with the PCB footprints.

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Sidney Stratton wrote:
And to LB for honestly saying he never tried those. Too many false positives about the web.

Yeh, that was straight from the Loctite site, among others.

Don’t the 2-part epoxies use “lock’n‘key” molecules to polymerise? That makes ‘em especially tough to chemically split apart again.

My reaction (haha) to the Loctite page was “IPA? Nfw!”.

So yeah, I only tossed it out there as untested.

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Sydney Stratton….

Lemme get this properly straight. Yer trying to dissolve a CURED surface-hardened epoxy without conceivably fooking up watt’s underneath. Good luck. I think you may be going to a powerful acid cuz that’s about the only type of chemical AFAIK with that kind of penetrative “bite”.

As for Goof Off! it may be relatively tame butt as for most dedoming it’s certainly not lame.

Don’t know watt ya messed up by using it. Curious as to watt it was though.

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

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Firelight2 wrote:
I attempted to open a broken Zebralight today.

I couldn’t even get the lens retaining ring off. I wasn’t able to wedge anything under it. I suspect if I want to mod one of these, I’ll have to shatter the lens, pick out the pieces, and only then be able to lever up the ring with a screwdriver.

It appears you just need a small wood-carving knife to remove the retaining ring: Zebralight SC600 MkIII Emitter Swap

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

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nottawhackjob wrote:
Sydney Stratton.... Lemme get this properly straight. Yer trying to dissolve a CURED surface-hardened epoxy without conceivably fooking up watt's underneath. Good luck. I think you may be going to a powerful acid cuz that's about the only type of chemical AFAIK with that kind of penetrative "bite". As for Goof Off! it may be relatively tame butt as for most dedoming it's certainly not lame. Don't know watt ya messed up by using it. Curious as to watt it was though.

 

@Sidney Stratton  

I once worked as a chemical engineer for decades but that was a long time ago and I forgot a lot of stuff, but i do know this: What notta is saying above is correct. I don't remember you saying exactly what type or brand the epoxy was (not that it matters much) but Fully Cured epoxy is a bitch by itself to get it to soften/dissolve.... without resorting to very aggressive acids. I am not aware of any "solvent", polar or otherwise, that will dissolve cured epoxy except acids and some extremely strong oxidizers. And acids won't exactly "dissolve" it ..... they will chemically attack it and break it down with vigor through chemical reaction. 

You can get epoxy to soften at temps between 400 and 600 degrees F.  It won't melt but it can soften. In the refineries and chemical plants we typically used physical methods (grinders) to remove it.... and we had tank farms full of every variety of acid and solvent you can think of.

The conclusion I'm afraid is that you are up the proverbial creek w/o a paddle unless you are willing to sacrifice/damage the item underneath it.  Good luck finding your miracle solvent and let us know where you found it. I'm curious myself.

 

 

 max

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OK, Thanks for the feedback.

Yes, epoxy esters are not easily disassociated. If any of you had read my original post (#10230 ), a watch coil spring and escarpment is the touchy item that has some (very little – mg amount) of epoxy that is to be removed from the counterweight. Not possible to scrap or do any mechanical removal.

As LB points out, even the Loctite site gives dubious info. Doesn’t make them very credible. And some years ago had a hefty exchange with their front-end tech that resulted in my allegiance to Devcon – got proper answers with some real hands-on engineer. But not working with an automotive engineering company anymore, I can’t call on their support.

@max: The thought of using a soldering iron to ‘cook’ the small blob did occur to me. But I’d have some testing to do as epoxy is heat resistive. As for epoxy type, 5 minute – thiol-based hardener.

On my subsequent post (#10235 ), I stated the substrate is aluminium with some brass sub-components. So it’s not like I can use concentrated nitric acid to etch the polymerized resin or hydrolyze with KOH.

And don’t promote GoofOff – crap. My repertoire of chemical knowledge leaves that shit trailing slime miles behind.

But to be fair, a picture is worth a thousand words:

A dab of epoxy on the counterpoise to be removed.

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Firelight2 wrote:
I attempted to open a broken Zebralight today.

I couldn’t even get the lens retaining ring off. I wasn’t able to wedge anything under it. I suspect if I want to mod one of these, I’ll have to shatter the lens, pick out the pieces, and only then be able to lever up the ring with a screwdriver.


.
Have you tried a heat gun ? It will soften any glue.
Firelight2
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The ring isn’t glued. It’s press-fit. But so tight I couldn’t even get an xacto knife underneath.

nottawhackjob
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“And don’t promote GoofOff – crap. My repertoire of chemical knowledge leaves that shit trailing slime miles behind.”

Yeah ok whatever Mr. Dupont or is it Mr. Dow? LOL Shocked

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

Lightbringer
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Sidney Stratton wrote:
Not possible to scrap or do any mechanical removal.

Not even with a dremel and dentist’s drill bit or the like? A brief feather-touch would take off at least some of it.

Brief blast from a multi-watt etching/cutting laser?

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Sidney Stratton
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I’m making some 7 test strips in aluminium and planning on some tests with the commercial “Lepage’s epoxy and glue remover”, and some other solvents as gasoline.

@ LB: That could be done – stabilizing the counterpoise arm with a backing support, a touch with a small dentist’s burr or stone. I believe I may have some about.

Thing is I had another meter that seemed fine but after careful inspection, the needle/counterweight assembly had torn from the micro winding of the coil. These are some 60+ years old and the resins they used to support the whole thing has dried and is brittle. It may have had a drop shock, although I’ve kept them in their original boxes, which broke the bond and now is useless. This is my only working meter in the 100 mV drive. My other meters are not so sensitive nor can be fitted with trim pots for final adjustments.

I had these meters in my collections but this one, in particular, lacked the counterpoise on the right. I had put the most minuscule amount of epoxy to compensate – using the needle of those disposable diabetes 1 cc syringes as the smallest common needle was too blunt. But the movement is now skewed (overshoots) past midday whilst it was undershooting prior. And the thought of adding some weight to the left makes for a heavier movement which in turn requires more voltage to overcome the drag. This makes for a higher shunt voltage and that is a problem at 50 Amps draw. As is, the Manganin shunt is getting very, very hot (but it stays constant in resistance – great invention Mr. Weston). Without the epoxy, the meter would need ~100 mV for full scale; with the smallest of epoxy, now is at 200 mV. The leverage of the long needle is a multiplier. Very touchy devices, but I suppose when they were originally made, had the resilience and accuracy of the times.

For all the years that I’ve worked with Simpson’s meters, adjusting and correcting, this is my most difficult one. I gather the long 2” needle makes it overly sensitive to any manipulation.

Addendum;

Being a commoner, my repertoire of available solvents is limited. However, I have some very caustic degreaser that ate away the PET container. I’ll give it try.

Also, have some engine degreaser which is citrus-based and easier to clean off than Goof Off

max
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Sidney Stratton wrote:
I'm making some 7 test strips in aluminum and planning on some tests with the commercial "Lepage's epoxy and glue remover", and some other solvents as gasoline.  However, I have some very caustic degreaser that ate away the PET container. I'll give it try. Also, have some engine degreaser which is citrus-based and easier to clean off than Goof Off
 

 

I believe you'll find that aluminum and caustic do not get along without dissolving the aluminum.... into aluminum hydroxide. Be careful.

 

 

 max

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A couple mini-mods with AA lights.  I really like the new Convoy T2 but thought it would be nice to have a tail magnet on it.  Searched high and low on aliexpress but couldn't find any ring magnets that small, so I finally sent messages to several magnet stores.  On the T2 it can take something like 16.5mm x 12mm x 3.5mm (ideally).  One supplier first said no and then messaged back that they did have a 16 x 12 x 2.  That store seems to have premium prices all around but I went ahead and ordered a 10pc at $11 plus $3 shipping and hoped for the best.  Allmagnets Store: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002910977987.html(link is external)

Well they fit great!  Other than being so thin.  With one magnet the button still protrudes but there's not quite enough grab with these lower end N35 magnets to be fully functional and trustworthy.  Stacking two magnets recesses the button slightly (1mm or less) and after gluing brings it just ever so slightly higher than the ears on the tailcap - but it still tailstands reliably with no wobble and really grabs to metal surfaces nicely.  The magnets will tell you this as you work with them, but it's important to align their poles and do a test to see which side grabs a little better than the other.  I scuff sanded both sides of the bottom magnet and just the underside of the top magnet.  Used a gel superglue and a bit too much, which required some tedious cleaning with acetone afterwards.  I think it's easiest to glue the two magnets together at first since they will pull into perfect alignment and their own attractive force is plenty of clamping pressure.  Then with the switch/button removed from the cap, sparsely apply glue to the tailcap before placing the magnets and quickly pushing up the rubber button for centering purposes.  Alternatively you can try to push the magnets over the rubber button and then pop the button out - either way works but I found the former to create less mess and if done quickly there is still enough time to position before the superglue grabs tightly.  Excess superglue will stick to the rubber and can either be flaked off or soaked in acetone for a couple minutes if you want it pristine (handy if you get any on the top checkered surface).

I exchanged messages with Simon and I believe he's going to try to source a 4mm thickness to stock in his store. 

I took a look at a buddy's Tool AA and decided to give it a try as well.  The tailcap on both new (lighted) and old is the same, with about a 15.4mm inside diameter near the top, but closer to 15mm at the bottom of the recess (slightly tapered), plus there is a very thin raised ring right around the button hole.   Used a 5mm carbide end cutting mill in the drill press and carefully worked by hand to mill away small amounts (cap centered and squared in soft vise jaws, moved the vise around the bit for a little more stability and control).  Worked out great!  The switch on the Tool seems to need a little more travel than the Convoy and it's a little recessed in the same way after adding the magnet stack, but it works great - best of both worlds with a tail clicky, fancy lights, and a magnet.  For those who want a magnet but don't want to lose the tail switch, it's a fun option. 

 

You can buy individual cheap carbide end mills for just a few bucks and even the cruddy low end HSS ones would work ok for this, although try to get a true end cutter that will plunge (many are not ground correctly for this and while they would work in this case they are not as versatile).  The aluminum in lights is pretty soft and we're only removing minute amounts, so specialized aluminum mills aren't necessary, and carbide is at no disadvantage compared to hss in this case.  Setup always takes longer than the actual work but I think I spent maybe a half hour total, plus assembly time.  You'll need a drill press with a hold/stop for the quill travel...sometimes you can modify a cheap press that only has a threaded rod for depth with nuts on the top by disassembling and adding a thin jam nut beneath the casting which you can then adjust and lock in place using the top side nuts.  I first tried to use a 1/2" sanding drum in the press but that mostly just made a mess and the bottom edge of the band wore away quickly, unable to square up the taper or deal with the raised ring.  Many words to describe all of this but it's really very simple and doesn't require any special tooling or experience other than a small end mill and secure workholding (and the press table should be decently square to the quill, also).  Also be very careful with clamping pressure so you don't ovalize the tailcap - correcting that is very difficult to do.

 

 

 

Tool AA below

https://imgur.com/sfCE7nS

[img]https://i.imgur.com/sfCE7nS.jpg[/img]

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Couple of really old school 1XAA lights got some love this weekend.

First off the Balder BD1p got a shinny new 219b sw-45k, little less output but ohhh that tint. I is running a 3×7135 ak-47 driver and works fine with a 14500 and 1xAA. I am not sure how it works at that low voltage, but the CPU is booted and modes work. I really would like to find the extension tube for this little guy.
Then a Deerelight EDC C2H got a pretty nice 219b sw-40 on a noctigon to correct the headspace that was off a tiny bit and required a solder wire shim to always make contact, now she is really reliable.

I also got in the Convoy T2, second version with the LH351D at 4000k. Along with it was a stash of it’s drivers I ordered. I think one of the drivers may end up in the Balder soon. One of the others will end up in a lego 1xAA/14500 P60 dropin or in my Javelin.

!Balder BD1p - C2H!

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

Mike C
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cetary wrote:
I modified an Xbox One controller’s cool white LED to amber.

Looks nice, I like these kind of mods Thumbs Up
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Convoy S16 Xhp70.2 4000K 80cri and Convoy 6V 5A driver, with custom reflector and centering ring.




Beamshot taken in conditions with lots of ambient light against dirty white concrete. Distance ~2m.

TIFisher
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Haukkeli wrote:
Convoy S16 Xhp70.2 4000K 80cri and Convoy 6V 5A driver, with custom reflector and centering ring.




Beamshot taken in conditions with lots of ambient light against dirty white concrete. Distance ~2m.

Looks awesome. What are your thoughts on the S16 as a host compared to the M21B? I’m thinking S16 will be my next Convoy purchase, but as I’m not in the modding phase of this hobby yet I’d need to go stock. I did confirm with Simon they are not the same size reflector.

Haukkeli
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S16 is more compact and feels more refined. M21B is little rough. I have M21B also and I was surprised how much this host feels better in your hand. It also looks better in my opinion.

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