Simply swap led in Trustfire T4, days ago. Put cslnm1.tg in it but the result is worse than I expected. Seems like the reflector is not suit for this led, the beam lost too much light to corona around hotspot.
I tried to upload pics on Imgure all day but still can’t until now. I will post it later if Imgure let me upload them.
I might try to change led again later to a more floody higher lumen led .
O K. I uploaded them.
Seconded.
You’re right it does boil at 39.6 It’s been awhile since I’ve used it. However I did use it in a glass jar with a loose lid swirling it while in warm water. It kept the smell down. Fume hood only goes so far.
Google says excessive uric acid has an ammonia smell, myself I don’t remember. Eat too much fat the night before and you’ll get a little more MEK out in the morning. All the stuff I used I’m surprised I don’t have cancer. You harsh chemical users; Fume hood or outdoors not garage style but really outside. Gloves, splash guard, cotton clothes.
@texas shooter:
But I still don’t understand why my methylene chloride doesn’t dissolve the hardened epoxy. It’s one of the active ingredients in paint stripper (along with sodium/potassium hydroxide – the gel types). And the smell is ethereal - almost sweet.
I’ll be trying gasoline. It’s loaded with petroleum esters and although has a lingering smell, is about my last resort.
There would be some “Lepage’s glue remover” which I doubt is sold in the US. But typically these over-the-shelf concoctions are a random mix of many VOCs (volatile organic compounds) and leave many residues.
Wellp, most epoxy is kinda by design not supposed to melt or dissolve, but I’ve seen (but haven’t really tried) using IPA and/or AcMe to loosen/dissolve it.
Try it? Both are easy enough to get even at a CVS or whatnot. “Rubbing alcohol” and “nail-polish remover”.
If ya can’t get it locally order online: Goof Off!
Works well on most domes. Soak overnight.
Less flammable/explosive vapor-wise. And it doesn’t leave a lingering smell on anything including fingers. Gasoline tends to. 
PS. After dedoming always spray it off with No Residue contact cleaner.
I attempted to open a broken Zebralight today.
I couldn’t even get the lens retaining ring off. I wasn’t able to wedge anything under it. I suspect if I want to mod one of these, I’ll have to shatter the lens, pick out the pieces, and only then be able to lever up the ring with a screwdriver.
Thanks all. As I originally posted, IPA and acetone have no effect.
And to LB for honestly saying he never tried those. Too many false positives about the web. There is a difference between loosening and dissolving. IPA is so mild, wouldn’t make a smear in grandma’s diapers. Acetone, very polar and volatile, doesn’t attack closed chained polymers. or most esters but for a smidge of hazing the surface because of the reaction’s oils that mitigate to the surface.
GoofOff is citrus-based oil and would not be suitable for such a delicate mechanism. I’ve once used that stuff with poor results and a mess to clean, which I’ll always never use from now on. It’s too tame and lame.
Would there not be someone with experience with esters (some chemist) on the forum?
edit;
And please don’t chime in ‘brake cleaner’ (perchloroethylene, aka PERC - dry cleaning fluid).
If you feel uncomfortable with these aromatics, don’t suppose others are as such. I’ve worked with much more “reactive” chemicals including Perchloric Acid and Antimony Pentafluoride. So none of these ‘mommy’ scares about cancer or flamability.
I modified an Xbox One controller’s cool white LED to amber. I was using an old Xbox 360 controller for a long while. It had green emitters. It wasn’t until the joystick on my old controller started to stick that I really had to look into using the newer controller. I didn’t like the use of cool white backlighting, especially at night. It’s a good feeling experience to have a light I use so much shift to low glare amber.
Also wanted to mention, I had initially planned on using warm white 2700K, but the footprint of the planned Osram emitter wasn’t working with the PCB footprints.
Yeh, that was straight from the Loctite site, among others.
Don’t the 2-part epoxies use “lock’n’key” molecules to polymerise? That makes ’em especially tough to chemically split apart again.
My reaction (haha) to the Loctite page was “IPA? Nfw!”.
So yeah, I only tossed it out there as untested.
Sydney Stratton….
Lemme get this properly straight. Yer trying to dissolve a CURED surface-hardened epoxy without conceivably fooking up watt’s underneath. Good luck. I think you may be going to a powerful acid cuz that’s about the only type of chemical AFAIK with that kind of penetrative “bite”.
As for Goof Off! it may be relatively tame butt as for most dedoming it’s certainly not lame.
Don’t know watt ya messed up by using it. Curious as to watt it was though.
It appears you just need a small wood-carving knife to remove the retaining ring: Zebralight SC600 MkIII Emitter Swap
@Sidney Stratton
I once worked as a chemical engineer for decades but that was a long time ago and I forgot a lot of stuff, but i do know this: What notta is saying above is correct. I don't remember you saying exactly what type or brand the epoxy was (not that it matters much) but Fully Cured epoxy is a bitch by itself to get it to soften/dissolve.... without resorting to very aggressive acids. I am not aware of any "solvent", polar or otherwise, that will dissolve cured epoxy except acids and some extremely strong oxidizers. And acids won't exactly "dissolve" it ..... they will chemically attack it and break it down with vigor through chemical reaction.
You can get epoxy to soften at temps between 400 and 600 degrees F. It won't melt but it can soften. In the refineries and chemical plants we typically used physical methods (grinders) to remove it.... and we had tank farms full of every variety of acid and solvent you can think of.
The conclusion I'm afraid is that you are up the proverbial creek w/o a paddle unless you are willing to sacrifice/damage the item underneath it. Good luck finding your miracle solvent and let us know where you found it. I'm curious myself.
OK, Thanks for the feedback.
Yes, epoxy esters are not easily disassociated. If any of you had read my original post (#10230 ), a watch coil spring and escarpment is the touchy item that has some (very little – mg amount) of epoxy that is to be removed from the counterweight. Not possible to scrap or do any mechanical removal.
As LB points out, even the Loctite site gives dubious info. Doesn’t make them very credible. And some years ago had a hefty exchange with their front-end tech that resulted in my allegiance to Devcon – got proper answers with some real hands-on engineer. But not working with an automotive engineering company anymore, I can’t call on their support.
@max: The thought of using a soldering iron to ‘cook’ the small blob did occur to me. But I’d have some testing to do as epoxy is heat resistive. As for epoxy type, 5 minute – thiol-based hardener.
On my subsequent post (#10235 ), I stated the substrate is aluminium with some brass sub-components. So it’s not like I can use concentrated nitric acid to etch the polymerized resin or hydrolyze with KOH.
And don’t promote GoofOff - crap. My repertoire of chemical knowledge leaves that shit trailing slime miles behind.
But to be fair, a picture is worth a thousand words:
A dab of epoxy on the counterpoise to be removed.
.
Have you tried a heat gun ? It will soften any glue.
The ring isn’t glued. It’s press-fit. But so tight I couldn’t even get an xacto knife underneath.
“And don’t promote GoofOff – crap. My repertoire of chemical knowledge leaves that shit trailing slime miles behind.”
Yeah ok whatever Mr. Dupont or is it Mr. Dow? 
Not even with a dremel and dentist’s drill bit or the like? A brief feather-touch would take off at least some of it.
Brief blast from a multi-watt etching/cutting laser?
I’m making some 7 test strips in aluminium and planning on some tests with the commercial “Lepage’s epoxy and glue remover”, and some other solvents as gasoline.
@ LB: That could be done – stabilizing the counterpoise arm with a backing support, a touch with a small dentist’s burr or stone. I believe I may have some about.
Thing is I had another meter that seemed fine but after careful inspection, the needle/counterweight assembly had torn from the micro winding of the coil. These are some 60+ years old and the resins they used to support the whole thing has dried and is brittle. It may have had a drop shock, although I’ve kept them in their original boxes, which broke the bond and now is useless. This is my only working meter in the 100 mV drive. My other meters are not so sensitive nor can be fitted with trim pots for final adjustments.
I had these meters in my collections but this one, in particular, lacked the counterpoise on the right. I had put the most minuscule amount of epoxy to compensate – using the needle of those disposable diabetes 1 cc syringes as the smallest common needle was too blunt. But the movement is now skewed (overshoots) past midday whilst it was undershooting prior. And the thought of adding some weight to the left makes for a heavier movement which in turn requires more voltage to overcome the drag. This makes for a higher shunt voltage and that is a problem at 50 Amps draw. As is, the Manganin shunt is getting very, very hot (but it stays constant in resistance – great invention Mr. Weston). Without the epoxy, the meter would need ~100 mV for full scale; with the smallest of epoxy, now is at 200 mV. The leverage of the long needle is a multiplier. Very touchy devices, but I suppose when they were originally made, had the resilience and accuracy of the times.
For all the years that I’ve worked with Simpson’s meters, adjusting and correcting, this is my most difficult one. I gather the long 2” needle makes it overly sensitive to any manipulation.
Addendum;
Being a commoner, my repertoire of available solvents is limited. However, I have some very caustic degreaser that ate away the PET container. I’ll give it try.
Also, have some engine degreaser which is citrus-based and easier to clean off than Goof Off
I believe you'll find that aluminum and caustic do not get along without dissolving the aluminum.... into aluminum hydroxide. Be careful.
