The button on my FW3A was too sensitive for my liking. I had gotten into the habit of doing a hard lockout by twisting the head slightly. But then I saw a tip about removing the nubbin from the switch (under the metal cover) and installing a small O-ring in place of it. That worked! My FW3A has a nice firm click that I like. No accidental activations. I’m wondering if the same kind of mod is possible with the smaller switch of the FWAA…
I agree that the control ring on the RRT-01 is often too loose from factory.
I take pains to remedy that, so the ring cannot turn unless I do it deliberately
also agree the RRT-01 is a bit Phat, but I forgive that, for the ability to use 18350.
I also prefer the earlier model, it is not as large in diameter, and not as heavy as the 2019 and 2020 models, but beggars cant be choosers, and imo, any RRT-01 is worth the experience of the Rotary UI.
output is the only reason to choose an Anduril light over a Rotary, imo
for my needs a single LED with a focused hotspot is much more efficient, AND has higher LUX on target, than a FWAA
my FWAA set to 200 lumens, has almost 3 times more output than my 80 lumen Novatac,
but the Novatac hotspot is 3x brighter on target (much more efficient power consumption)
I also find the ring of my RRT-01 just a bit too easy to turn. There is a notable detent for on/off, but with the right swipe pressure against my wrist or something in passing and the ring can turn. So for me, I always do a hard lockout. But… I don’t EDC this light because the FW3A isn’t painfully much larger and it’s totally workable for my needs (plus an 18650 is more versatile than CR123 or 18350). Better tint as well (XP-L HI 3D). I really do appreciate the low light adjustability of the magnetic ring RRT-01. Seriously useful. I really wish Jetbeam had done the Sunwayman design of having a separate on/off switch.
The FWAA looks to be about RRT-01 sized. I’m expecting it’ll be nicer to pocket. I’m just hoping the switch mod is possible to reduce accidental activation… but I’ve been so accustomed to the small twist for lockout, I really won’t mind if I have to resort to that again.
Thanks for the comparison shots, Jonathan. I guess for your needs you use your EDC for more longer range tasks, hence the desire for a focused hotspot?
One thing I do enjoy about the NovaTac 120P is that it has reasonable spill. I just don’t care for the tint… That FWAA tint looks wonderful in comparison. I seems to be just a weaker version of the FW3A. For close range tasks, I enjoy a good rich spill. But if I’m needing to focus on something small and for detail, a concentrated hotspot is certainly preferable. The Lumintop Tool AA should suffice for that, I think.
To ShyOne, The FWAA is a noteworthy light and if Freeme had a C3PO version aka brass I would’ve been willing to purchase. Even with this experience in my sample. Hopefully that explains how much I like it.
But that being said I wouldn’t trust my sample being in the glove box of my vehicle.
I do want to show my appreciation for all the constructive advice
The FWAA is much smaller than any version RRT-01. It’s smaller than a Sofirn SP10b. It’s about the same size as an Eagletac D25c! It’s downright tiny. It just vanishes inside a pocket.
The o-ring mod that worked for the FW3A also works on the FWAA, using the same size o-rings.
yes, there are excellent high CRI LED choices for the FWAA
I agree that the stock LED in the RRT-01 is no match (I tend to forget all mine have High CRI LED swaps)
and the FWAA also costs less… a lot of bang for the buck
The FWAA is indeed quite small and cute… it has a lot going for it
notwhitstanding that I find the clip and switch, and Turbo heat, problematic for EDC
I wish the clip were a bit better on the FWAA. I don’t like the bi-directly clip. It sticks out more, and the reverse lip sometimes gets caught when I fish the light out of my pocket. I’d much rather have a good single-direction clip like the FW3A, Eagletac D25 or RRT-01.
Fantastic! Thanks for the confirmation. That switch mod made for a nice adjustment to the FW3A. Nice knowing I won’t have to do a twist lockout on the FWAA (although 4 clicks to put into momentary mode can work as well).
Switch mod should fix the touchiness. As for Turbo, haven’t you said in other posts about never really needing full turbo mode, that you tend to use medium & lower modes? If anything, at least you can programmatically set a lower limit. I’ve used full turbo on my FW3A on occasion. Yeah, it can get rather hot. It’s just fine for a momentary use. Having “bigger gun” lights for major throw can serve that purpose for longer sustained beam. The FW3A is a very small size for an 18650… same as a ZL SC64. And while it can work in a front pocket location, it’s nicer to have something smaller there. It’s of course terrific for a jacket pocket.
There’s bound to be a clip floating around out there by another maker that could work, given this size… do you think?
I like the beam from a single LED in a reflector. It is targetted, uses less lumens, and even indoors, where most of my use is, I prefer single LED beams.
and yes, outdoors the single LED in a reflector also reaches out farther, than the a triple. The floody optic of the FWAA is very inefficient, it wastes a lot of sidelight lumens. I have to use 600 lumens w the FWAA, to get the same Lux I get with an RRT-01 at 200 lumens.
otoh, the FWAA comes in Titanium, for small money… its a great little bling light
true
I do not want 1000+ lumen, Turbo burn risk, so I use Simple Mode, with a ceiling of 90/150 = 400 lumens on my meter, and a floor of 1/150 = 0.1 lumens.
in Advanced Mode, Turbo cannot be disabled, it is available from Off with 2H, which I consider a pocket burn risk, that requires using the 4 click lockout.
my only need for advanced mode (besides changing floor and ceiling settings), is to access to bicycle flasher for alerting traffic when Im a pedestrian crossing the street (rare)
I dont want any ambient flashing lights, no eCandle, no eLighting…
Every time I’ve ever had pocket accidental activation with a flashlight, the button becomes depressed and stays that way usually for an extended period.
I can’t imagine a pocket accidental activation happening where the light just happens to do a click+click-hold. As such, I consider the risk that an FWAA in advanced mode will enter turbo like that is basically non-existent.
That said, I do use lockout with my FWAA when in a pocket with my keys because I don’t want it activating and draining the battery.
I don’t have imgur thing to post pictures yet sorry!
Okay so the protected caliper reads: 50.55mm for 650mah 9.75A purple efest button top. 1.45mm taller than H10
Cheap ebl button top reads, 50.00mm and vapcell H10 Flat top reads, 49.10mm
So maybe the longer efest cell is applying more pressure on the driver and contacts to work without a hitch. Just a theory, but I’m probably wrong. Thank you much for all the help jon_slider
and for starting a very useful conversation, that I had not figured out how to talk about…
The scary FWAA Runaway Ramping to ceiling, with non responsive switch issue, that requires removing the battery.
I have only had FWAA Runaway Ramping happen during assembly, never spontaneously once the light is shut, and in working order. Which is why I would like to think it is only an assembly failure, rather than a sleeping gremlin.
Just got my FWAA in copper…
LOVE IT! Gorgeous looking thing.
The size is just wonderful. It’s unfortunate that this means a reduction in heat management. On turbo, the head gets hotter faster than on the FW3A. The 1400lm rating is nice, but not usable for long. But really, for an AA sized light of this mass, I don’t think you can expect much. The fit & finish of this light is superb. The switch is actually pretty good. I can see the chance of accidental activation, but for now just going to do 4 clicks to lock. The clip? I don’t know, despite complaints given seems pretty decent to me.