yes, the FWAA is shorter, and narrower, than the Original RRT-01
74.4mm, 79.5mm
20.2mm, 22.8mm
I like the beam from a single LED in a reflector. It is targetted, uses less lumens, and even indoors, where most of my use is, I prefer single LED beams.
and yes, outdoors the single LED in a reflector also reaches out farther, than the a triple. The floody optic of the FWAA is very inefficient, it wastes a lot of sidelight lumens. I have to use 600 lumens w the FWAA, to get the same Lux I get with an RRT-01 at 200 lumens.
otoh, the FWAA comes in Titanium, for small money… its a great little bling light
true
I do not want 1000+ lumen, Turbo burn risk, so I use Simple Mode, with a ceiling of 90/150 = 400 lumens on my meter, and a floor of 1/150 = 0.1 lumens.
in Advanced Mode, Turbo cannot be disabled, it is available from Off with 2H, which I consider a pocket burn risk, that requires using the 4 click lockout.
my only need for advanced mode (besides changing floor and ceiling settings), is to access to bicycle flasher for alerting traffic when Im a pedestrian crossing the street (rare)
I dont want any ambient flashing lights, no eCandle, no eLighting…
thanks for sharing your experience
I looked up the length specs
efest purple 650mAh: 49.18mm
vapcel H10 1000mAh: 49.4mm
the max length for a FWAA is 50.5, neither is too long… by specs
So, now that the light is working properly with efest, does the problem come back if you use an H10?
Every time I’ve ever had pocket accidental activation with a flashlight, the button becomes depressed and stays that way usually for an extended period.
I can’t imagine a pocket accidental activation happening where the light just happens to do a click+click-hold. As such, I consider the risk that an FWAA in advanced mode will enter turbo like that is basically non-existent.
That said, I do use lockout with my FWAA when in a pocket with my keys because I don’t want it activating and draining the battery.
I don’t have imgur thing to post pictures yet sorry!
Okay so the protected caliper reads: 50.55mm for 650mah 9.75A purple efest button top. 1.45mm taller than H10
Cheap ebl button top reads, 50.00mm and vapcell H10 Flat top reads, 49.10mm
So maybe the longer efest cell is applying more pressure on the driver and contacts to work without a hitch. Just a theory, but I’m probably wrong. Thank you much for all the help jon_slider
that is reassuring, thanks for your comments
thank you for your contributions also,
and for starting a very useful conversation, that I had not figured out how to talk about…
The scary FWAA Runaway Ramping to ceiling, with non responsive switch issue, that requires removing the battery.
I have only had FWAA Runaway Ramping happen during assembly, never spontaneously once the light is shut, and in working order. Which is why I would like to think it is only an assembly failure, rather than a sleeping gremlin.
I’ve used both FT & BT H10 in grey FWAA, no issues. Have a copper on the way so that will expand the sample size.
Just got my FWAA in copper…
LOVE IT! Gorgeous looking thing.
The size is just wonderful. It’s unfortunate that this means a reduction in heat management. On turbo, the head gets hotter faster than on the FW3A. The 1400lm rating is nice, but not usable for long. But really, for an AA sized light of this mass, I don’t think you can expect much. The fit & finish of this light is superb. The switch is actually pretty good. I can see the chance of accidental activation, but for now just going to do 4 clicks to lock. The clip? I don’t know, despite complaints given seems pretty decent to me.
Thanks ROYCE… That is pretty much what I thought. As with the FW3A, most of the problems are operator error related to assembly.
Thanks for mentioning “Killzone”… I was not aware of them. 
Thanks jon_slider, that makes sense. Good to know the FWAA, as with the FW3A; most of the “problems” were/are
operator error related to assembly.
A couple data points. I've run the H10 flat tops almost exclusively in mine but tried the H10 buttons as well as Rofis and Vapcell gold buttons. Never had any issues although I am sticking with the flat tops because the buttons just feel too tight in there to me. I've used the light a ton and love it, never a problem with the switch or runaway turbo.
That said, I wasn't aware that A2 had this newer safety feature, but sure enough, it does...that's great. Just tried it on this light and the SC31 Pro and it ramps right back down pretty quickly when the button is held down. So that should tell us that your light has something else going on, but it's curious that the flats are causing it rather than the buttons...I'd expect it to be the opposite if the button length was stressing the board + contact or other components. Is it possible that the tube is getting moved a little with the buttons/tail cap is a tad loose? It doesn't take much. And this light seems to have had a lot of QC issues with the LED wires and soldering. Do the wires look well done on the mcpcb and aren't shorting against it through the hole from lack of wire insulation (some pics showed the wires stripped too far and shorted this way)?
So that said, buddy at work bought one of these after seeing mine, but he bought the H10 button tops for his. He pocket carries a lot using the clip, and he had a couple issues like this as well. Turns out that his tail cap was a bit loose even though he knows that's important and only did batt changes at the head. I wondered if it's possible that the stress from the clip could cause the tailcap to unscrew slightly with repeated use. Hasn't happened again but we're watching that. Other than that you just need to be sure that tube is seated all the way before putting the cap on, and then you can do whatever you like with the tightness of the head.
If you haven't already, it wouldn't hurt to disassemble the switch to be sure there isn't any schmoo or metal shavings in there (same for the head while you're at it...plus stray solder splatter).
Thanks guys for pointing out that new safety feature...had no idea it was there but that was a great addition to the firmware.
Avoid Lumintop at all costs, really dangerous lights. All my FW series stick on and ramp to Turbo. Sometimes they won’t turn off even when not sticking.
Never had any problems with them. Maybe user error? Yes, they can behave strange if not properly assembled.
Please don’t do that. Really, one person has a problem and then there’s a declaration to avoid a brand completely. It’s not sensible. The FW series has its share of quirks a little above normal, but it’s easily rectified. This is not a mainstream consumer series flashlight, mind you.
I have 4 different FW3As, 3 FWAAs, an FW21 Pro, a Tool AA Ti, and an EDC 18. All work fine without the issue you describe.
- Just because you have had bad luck with the lights you own from a particular manufacturer doesn’t mean that everyone else will experience the same.
- Go ahead and state what went wrong with your lights. That’s fine. It’s great information that we on this forum want to know.
- However, you detract from your credibility when you then apparently suggest that every Lumintop light will have the same issues yours did. And the stronger the language you use, the less credible you seem.
- It might be different if the issues you experienced were design defects and everyone was experiencing the same problem. But that simply isn’t the case.
Another example:
- Zebralight has a great reputation, but I’ve had terrible luck with Zebras. Something like 8 out of 15 were defective and non-functional either out of the box or after just a few weeks of light use.
- … but does that mean everyone should avoid Zebralight? No. I still recommend them, because most users have had a great experience with them. And the few Zebras I own that aren’t defective are spectacular lights.
Same here, though I only have two FW3A's and a HL3A so I haven't tried that many Lumintop lights. 
I’ve never had any issues with any of these and it’s only about half of my Lumintop lights.
Every manufacturer will have its issues with quality control, it’s our job to not condem a company based off of a fraction of the user experiences.
I have NEVER had one problem with any of my Lumintop lights, and I have quite a few.
Most of the “problems” I read about here on BLF with Lumintops lights (especially the FWXX Series) are nothing more than operator error.
People assemble it incorrectly or simply do not know what they are doing and automatically blame the light.
Comical indeed…. 
Don't want to stray too far from OP's specific concern, but while we're on the subject of avoiding or embracing Lumintop as a whole, I have to say that I have personally had three of their fail and have seen four others. Generally their drivers but one was a switch. Quality always seems good, but I can't say that I would ever recommend them to anyone to whom reliability was a chief concern, or who perhaps didn't have the skills or interest to investigate or repair. That said, they normally take care of customers with quick replacements. I'm currently dancing an email dance with them over a failed driver on their discontinued ODL20C thrower....after much ado they finally sent me one from China but it was completely the wrong thing (probably for the ODF30C or whatever that was). At this point I'm not sure they will be able to provide the driver even if they are willing (also unsure about that now). So two years into a five year warranty, maybe kinda stuck. It's not like Lumintop has premium pricing but they have leaned that direction here and there, and they sure like to proudly advertise the warranty. If we do pay a little more for the warranty with them, I'm inclined to say go with Convoy or Sofirn where at least you know you'll be able to get great assistance and parts very easily.
Could be that Lumintop got a taste of success and would like to join the profit margins that Olight and Nitecore, etc, etc enjoy....might explain some of their behavior (but hopefully they realize that their quality isn't quite up to snuff just yet although the lights always look awesome). If nothing else, don't throw them out with the bath water because they have helped to bring us a lot of nice lights that we asked for. They seem to be willing to correct as needed even if we don't always agree with the results, so the relationship isn't worth severing, imho. Then again, some people kinda just need to stay away from lower priced lights if they forget to keep expectations in check.
I remember having this issue with my fwaa and an H10, and the issue ended up being solved by some info in this passage. As it turned out, I had unscrewed the tailcap and rescrewed it without holding the light vertical, messing up the button.
Most FW3x issues can be resolved by following these steps exactly as written:
Unscrew the head AND tailcap completely. (Hold the light vertically, head side up, tail side down. )
Check for any metal burrs on the threads.
Clean the threads and contacts with rubbing alcohol, then reapply lubricant to threads. You can skip if the light is new/clean.
Screw on the tailcap & tighten as much as you possibly can (by hand). (Hold the light vertically, head side up, tail side down. )
Screw on the head. (Hold the light vertically, head side up, tail side down. )
Please see the FW3A Troubleshooting Guide for more. (FW3A Troubleshooting / FAQ)
Lastly, see the quickstart & useful information thread here. (FW3A Useful Information.....)