And donāt call him Shirleyā¦
Experts? Nah. Everyone just seems to yell at each other. Loudest person wins. :laughing:
Question: what is the other flashlight forum going to be like now that it has been sold and the new owner is taking over?
Any more details? Iām clueless.
[Noob question warning] If a blue emitter makes everything look blue, does that mean it has a CRI of 1?
Last one to yell before the thread closes wins.
Can I do a makeshift discharge test with a convoy S2+? Just curious if I can before I go for a hobby charger. I donāt need 100% accurate numbers just approximation to test some laptop pulls.
Got an old one thatās 7135 based? Yeh. Iād only try it with a wimpier light, like 3Ć7135 for ~1A draw. Otherwise the light could overcook itself if left in free air and uncooled.
I have a 6x7135. Just plan on putting it on low(1%?) and letting it go do its thing
Has anyone posted a summary of emitter characteristics somewhere?
voltage, lumens per watt, max current, availability, cri, tint, etc? So many new emitters since the last time I was hanging around here, and I donāt have a feel for what to use for some mods Iām planning.
Might, but aināt sure how the battery would react. Itās not a constant current, but 1% pulses of high current.
Not that Iām aware of.
Thanks for the responses. Guess Iāll go with a hobby charger to be on the safe side.
Wellp, if you get a 1A light (~1.05A for 3Ć7135), itāll be a constant current until it starts to pull out of regulation and dims.
A $25 Liitokala Lii500 charger is well known for it ability to do capacity tests. It can discharge and recharge a cell and itās results are good. Thatās the cheapest I know of.
Iāll have to check on that been a while since I took inventory. Thanks!
Yeah I was looking at that as well. Sad that the UC4 hasnāt come out yet. I was hoping not to buy more chargers except the UC4. Thanks for the recommendation!
Another stupid question: how can I measure the draw from the tailcap leds in a lighted switch like those from Convoy?
I put one of the new ones (orange) in a 14500 flashlight, but I suspect it will draw too much power from the cell and can deplete it soon.
I never did that. I have a DMM and a clampmeter for that.
Any help is appreciated and thanks in advance 
I will make a guess.
If the resistor that limits current and controls brightness of the led is on the same pcb that the led is on, you can wire a battery to the tail cap and measure current inline to see what the draw is.
If the current limiting resistor is on the driver board then itās more tricky. Here is a basic drawing showing a flashlight circuit.
If you were to unsolder the red wire from the mcpcb you could then measure the current from the red wire to the flashlight body. This should measure everything between those two points minus the led and driver circuitry, but should include any resistors from the driver spring to ground, like shown below.
I have not actually tried it to see if I can measure tail cap led draw, though. It might work, but it can be a pain unsoldering the wire from the mcpcb.
You can pretty much assume any type of small colored LED is going to be a fairly High parasitic drain. So if you have a flashlight with a lighted tailcap or switch and youāre not going to be using it for at least a couple days, itās best to just shut off all power. An easy way to get a rough estimate is to just measure the battery voltage, preferably not fully charged, and then let it sit a day or two and then see how much the voltage dropped. That will get you into the ball park.
The way I measure my lighted tailcap milliamps is by removing the head and taping a wire to the positive of the battery. And then attach the wire to the spring (positive) of the driver. Then touch 1 of the leads from the DMM to the threads of the body and the other to the retaining ring on the driver (or to threads on the head).
Hereās a pic of the milliamps of a white lighted tailcap in an S2+:
