I could probably do all this, but not enough spare time unfortunately, and to do it right, it should all be at least configurable at compile time, UI config settings preferred. Then it should be updated in a master repository which I'm still not familiar enough with the rep tools TK uses, but other BLF members are.
These changes though all sound good to me. 1. is already configurable, and 2./3. are actually the same software change.
Not sure how familiar you are with re-building Anduril but all the latest source can be found publicly posted. I've been using Gabe's (gchart) latest as the master. Links for TK's latest is in the OP in TK's sig.
If it did blink the FW3A-219 model number itâs because they put its model number by mistake in their cfg-fwaa.h, as mentioned in pm the FWAA IFAIK has only 2 PWM channels (FET+1) instead of 3 for the FW3A, and the former doesnât have the 66% FET limit of the FW3A-219.
so you would use a FET+1 cfg as model, like the D4 one for example.
Aside from that, I believe point 2. and 3. would require changes in Anduril code, not just cfg.
configurable, as in, I have a menu option in my FWAA that I can change?
or as in, something needs to be edited and reflashed?
thanks⌠I honestly do not know what hardware the FWAA uses, nor how many 7135âŚ
where do I see Anduril code?
I have no experience, and most of what you say is outside my comprehension⌠I can follow directions, but have none of the hardwared needed to connect to a FWAA for reflashâŚ
so forgive if Im not qualified to have an intelligent conversation. I feel like I just walked into a University level Class, and have not met the prerequisites. So if you decide its all too complicated to explain, I will not be offended that you dont have time to hold my hand and walk me through the entire process.
I can live with my FWAA the way it is⌠not perfect, but parts of it are excellent
OK, I will try.
D4 has Pin #2 for Switch. And the old D4v1 has no Aux/Switch-LED, I think.
And it works with the A17DD Driver with the changes you wrote?
Is the Layout of the BLF Q8 the same as the D4 with aditional Aux-LED on Pin #3?
Where do I find the latest Hex-Files with Anduril or Anduril2? I found the following.
It shows the 7135 on pin #5, FET on pin#6. Pin #2 is the switch, pin #3 is the switch/AUX LED, and pin #7 is the voltage divider (not really needed w/Anduril).
Yes - Q8 is same as D4 but with the add switch LED on pin #3.
DEL developed the first stable, proper designed driver for the ATTiny85. He designed the Q8 driver. Everyone thereafter copied his design, or I passed along the info to them.
Is it possible that Lumintop flashed the wrong firmware (FW3A-219 instead of FWAA) on their FWAA, or just that the model code has a mistake in the cfg-fwaa.h, as you mentioned?
How to check if that is indeed the case? (3-channel program code on a 2-channel physical driver = what kind of issues will happen?)
Does it ramp up and down normally on all 150 levels? Then everything is alright. Wrong channel configuration would result in nonlinear ramp, no turbo, no moon or whatever.
I hope this is an OK place to ask for help. I just updated my KR4 and D4V2 lights to the latest Anduril. However I had the following issue on my K9.3, and after I have not been able to reflash (Or use).
Usually this means it is not physically connected⌠like the connector slipped during a reflash. Keep trying, and it should work eventually.
It can help to use good lighting and a magnifier or reading glasses to see better, to make sure the pins are making contact. It can also sometimes help to unplug and replug the USB adapter, because some USB adapters are unreliable after one use of avrdude. Also, sometimes it helps to change the angle of the pogo pins against the pads.
Thank you so much for your time. Unfortunately I do not believe that is what I have going on here. I have a steady hand and good eyes with plenty of quality light. I have been able to update other lights since, and have attempted this one over 30 times with the same result. I had previously used multiple versions on the 9.3, however as soon as that failed upload occurred there have been no signs of life.
Update:
Have rebooted my pc, and left the adapter unplugged for half an hour. Reflashed a D4V2 first try. Then attempted 20 additional times, carefully repositioning and verifying connection each time with no success. Then to verify the adapter status I reflashed the D4V2 again in 1 try.
That is unfortunate. I have a couple lights which are extremely difficult to flash, so I donât do it very often because each time takes dozens of attempts. In one case, I had to try over 200 times before it finally worked. I never did figure out why exactly it has issues while others donât, though.
Itâs also possible that the flash could have sent exactly the wrong data, causing it to underclock itself or something at boot time, which would make reflashing fail. But in several years of reflashing chips rather a lot, I havenât seen that happen.
OTOH, I have an old FW3A dev host here which was fine for years, and worked fine last time I reflashed it⌠it even boots up and runs Anduril normally. But I canât get it to flash any more. It acts like itâs not connected. I havenât tried cleaning it yet though; it could just have dirty contacts.
My sympathies. If I ever find a practical way to revive it, Iâll let you know⌠but so far, the only method Iâm aware of is to unsolder the MCU and use a high-voltage programmer on it. Or just keep retrying and hope.
It might help to twiddle the 3.3V/5V jumper, but itâs kind of a long shot.
Thujone, I have a spare D4V2 driver board that I can sell you for what I paid for it ($12 I think). But, I am told that replacing it is difficult because of having to solder a lot of wires in a small space. ToyKeeperâs idea of unsoldering the MCU to do the HV (high voltage = 12V) reflash method might be easier. I have never done this and donât know whether youâd really have to unsolder the entire MCU or just the relevant pin. Itâs disappointing to hear that this canât be done through the 6 pin interface without removing the MCU from the board. What a pain.
I notice illumn.com has some D4V2 in stock in California if your wife doesnât want to wait for a replacement to arrive from China. They ship pretty fast.
There are probably people on this board who can fix your light by unsoldering the MCU etc .if youâre not up for that yourself. It will definitely be quicker to get a new light, but if you fix the old one afterwards, then you have a spare. Iâd offer to give it a try, but I donât have the tools for it (SMT hot air rework gizmo).
About the high-voltage thing, itâs almost certainly not an option. It requires special equipment to do the reflashing, and getting the MCU off/on is rather difficult due to its form factor. Even just getting the K9.3 driver out is difficult, since there is so much hardware packed into a tiny space.
If reflashing via pogo adapter fails to revive it, Thujone doesnât have any good options.
Ah whoops, somehow I got confused and forgot what model of light this was. Itâs a real pain if the HV reflash canât be done in-circuit. I guess the pogo pin programmer doesnât have the 12 volt output anyway. Thujone, donât throw out your light, it is likely repairable with some expense and hassle. Meanwhile though, yeah, it sounds like you better buy another one. Illumn does have some Noctigons in stock, and fwiw my D4v2 took only around 2 weeks to arrive from China, much faster than I expected.
Iâd say the K9.3 is one of the less difficult Emisar/Noctigon to repair, driver cavity has a lot of depth (~10mm) compared to the ~2.5mm of the D4v2/D4Sv2/KRx, which allows to use longer wires, the solder pads on the MCPCB and AUX PCB being more spread out makes soldering the wires significantly easier than on a D4v2.
Still not exactly an easy job and it depends a lot on oneâs skills.