Thanks jon_slider, that makes sense. Good to know the FWAA, as with the FW3A; most of the “problems” were/are
operator error related to assembly.
A couple data points. I've run the H10 flat tops almost exclusively in mine but tried the H10 buttons as well as Rofis and Vapcell gold buttons. Never had any issues although I am sticking with the flat tops because the buttons just feel too tight in there to me. I've used the light a ton and love it, never a problem with the switch or runaway turbo.
That said, I wasn't aware that A2 had this newer safety feature, but sure enough, it does...that's great. Just tried it on this light and the SC31 Pro and it ramps right back down pretty quickly when the button is held down. So that should tell us that your light has something else going on, but it's curious that the flats are causing it rather than the buttons...I'd expect it to be the opposite if the button length was stressing the board + contact or other components. Is it possible that the tube is getting moved a little with the buttons/tail cap is a tad loose? It doesn't take much. And this light seems to have had a lot of QC issues with the LED wires and soldering. Do the wires look well done on the mcpcb and aren't shorting against it through the hole from lack of wire insulation (some pics showed the wires stripped too far and shorted this way)?
So that said, buddy at work bought one of these after seeing mine, but he bought the H10 button tops for his. He pocket carries a lot using the clip, and he had a couple issues like this as well. Turns out that his tail cap was a bit loose even though he knows that's important and only did batt changes at the head. I wondered if it's possible that the stress from the clip could cause the tailcap to unscrew slightly with repeated use. Hasn't happened again but we're watching that. Other than that you just need to be sure that tube is seated all the way before putting the cap on, and then you can do whatever you like with the tightness of the head.
If you haven't already, it wouldn't hurt to disassemble the switch to be sure there isn't any schmoo or metal shavings in there (same for the head while you're at it...plus stray solder splatter).
Thanks guys for pointing out that new safety feature...had no idea it was there but that was a great addition to the firmware.
Avoid Lumintop at all costs, really dangerous lights. All my FW series stick on and ramp to Turbo. Sometimes they won’t turn off even when not sticking.
Never had any problems with them. Maybe user error? Yes, they can behave strange if not properly assembled.
Please don’t do that. Really, one person has a problem and then there’s a declaration to avoid a brand completely. It’s not sensible. The FW series has its share of quirks a little above normal, but it’s easily rectified. This is not a mainstream consumer series flashlight, mind you.
I have 4 different FW3As, 3 FWAAs, an FW21 Pro, a Tool AA Ti, and an EDC 18. All work fine without the issue you describe.
- Just because you have had bad luck with the lights you own from a particular manufacturer doesn’t mean that everyone else will experience the same.
- Go ahead and state what went wrong with your lights. That’s fine. It’s great information that we on this forum want to know.
- However, you detract from your credibility when you then apparently suggest that every Lumintop light will have the same issues yours did. And the stronger the language you use, the less credible you seem.
- It might be different if the issues you experienced were design defects and everyone was experiencing the same problem. But that simply isn’t the case.
Another example:
- Zebralight has a great reputation, but I’ve had terrible luck with Zebras. Something like 8 out of 15 were defective and non-functional either out of the box or after just a few weeks of light use.
- … but does that mean everyone should avoid Zebralight? No. I still recommend them, because most users have had a great experience with them. And the few Zebras I own that aren’t defective are spectacular lights.
Same here, though I only have two FW3A's and a HL3A so I haven't tried that many Lumintop lights. 
I’ve never had any issues with any of these and it’s only about half of my Lumintop lights.
Every manufacturer will have its issues with quality control, it’s our job to not condem a company based off of a fraction of the user experiences.
I have NEVER had one problem with any of my Lumintop lights, and I have quite a few.
Most of the “problems” I read about here on BLF with Lumintops lights (especially the FWXX Series) are nothing more than operator error.
People assemble it incorrectly or simply do not know what they are doing and automatically blame the light.
Comical indeed…. 
Don't want to stray too far from OP's specific concern, but while we're on the subject of avoiding or embracing Lumintop as a whole, I have to say that I have personally had three of their fail and have seen four others. Generally their drivers but one was a switch. Quality always seems good, but I can't say that I would ever recommend them to anyone to whom reliability was a chief concern, or who perhaps didn't have the skills or interest to investigate or repair. That said, they normally take care of customers with quick replacements. I'm currently dancing an email dance with them over a failed driver on their discontinued ODL20C thrower....after much ado they finally sent me one from China but it was completely the wrong thing (probably for the ODF30C or whatever that was). At this point I'm not sure they will be able to provide the driver even if they are willing (also unsure about that now). So two years into a five year warranty, maybe kinda stuck. It's not like Lumintop has premium pricing but they have leaned that direction here and there, and they sure like to proudly advertise the warranty. If we do pay a little more for the warranty with them, I'm inclined to say go with Convoy or Sofirn where at least you know you'll be able to get great assistance and parts very easily.
Could be that Lumintop got a taste of success and would like to join the profit margins that Olight and Nitecore, etc, etc enjoy....might explain some of their behavior (but hopefully they realize that their quality isn't quite up to snuff just yet although the lights always look awesome). If nothing else, don't throw them out with the bath water because they have helped to bring us a lot of nice lights that we asked for. They seem to be willing to correct as needed even if we don't always agree with the results, so the relationship isn't worth severing, imho. Then again, some people kinda just need to stay away from lower priced lights if they forget to keep expectations in check.
I remember having this issue with my fwaa and an H10, and the issue ended up being solved by some info in this passage. As it turned out, I had unscrewed the tailcap and rescrewed it without holding the light vertical, messing up the button.
Most FW3x issues can be resolved by following these steps exactly as written:
Unscrew the head AND tailcap completely. (Hold the light vertically, head side up, tail side down. )
Check for any metal burrs on the threads.
Clean the threads and contacts with rubbing alcohol, then reapply lubricant to threads. You can skip if the light is new/clean.
Screw on the tailcap & tighten as much as you possibly can (by hand). (Hold the light vertically, head side up, tail side down. )
Screw on the head. (Hold the light vertically, head side up, tail side down. )
Please see the FW3A Troubleshooting Guide for more. (FW3A Troubleshooting / FAQ)
Lastly, see the quickstart & useful information thread here. (FW3A Useful Information.....)
The little FWAA is growing on me. Yesterday I took it out hiking, clipped to my back pocket, not locked out. There were no Runaway Ramping problems. I use an H10 battery.
I have set the ceiling to 90/150, set memory to the lowest 0.1 lumens, (with a 5 minute last mode memory), and I carry in Simple Mode, which does not allow Turbo. I also bent the clip so it is tighter.
When I got home and removed the light from my pocket, it was ON at 0.5 lumens (second step in the ramp). The battery was still above 4v.
I think I need to do the O ring mod to the switch.
(I still refuse to click 4x to lock and unlock)
u need run the light in muggle mode so less lumens and less heat otherwise turbo u can burn your hands off pretty quick and not very usable…
I’m not sure which thread to post this in, so if I should move it please let me know.
I’m at the end of ideas, and I’m quite frustrated. My FWAA has worked flawlessly until yesterday. It seems to have just lost its mind. Every time I take it apart and put it back together, it acts differently. You name it, it does it: Goes to turbo, then two seconds later won’t go to turbo. Seems to switch between ramping and stepped after only turning it off. Sometimes flickers, sometimes won’t turn off. Sometimes it ramps, and other times it doesn’t do anything - just stays at current brightness as I hold the switch down. Countless other odd behaviors. I’ve read all I can and tried all the fixes I could find: Cleaned all contacts, factory reset, different batteries, tighten switch end first- then install battery and then head, tighten (and loosen) retaining rings, adjust o-ring on black tube. It seems the light works fine for the first 3 seconds after I reassemble and then the odd behavior starts. I just don’t know what to do now. If you have any suggestions, I’m all ears. Thanks.
Buy another one then lego to see if you can find the location of the fault - head, body or tail.
I had a problem where the light wouldn’t turn off. I could ramp up and down just fine but it was flickering. Even when I turned it off it continued to flicker. Little bit like a candle mode. I fixed it by changing led wires and reflowing emitters. Tried every other trick associated with these lights before that. Tricky buggers.
Good Morning
lets fix it 
> Cleaned all contacts
good… just to check… I clean with a paper towel and isopropyl alcohol. The goal is to have No lubricant in the head, especially on the pill and threads. Same for the body threads at both ends and also the inner tube… No Lube on any of it (to eliminate any electrical issue related to lube)… after we solve the problem, you can put a SMALL amount of lube back on the threads and O rings …
> tighten (and loosen) retaining rings
my guess is there is a loose retaining ring at the tailswitch… it should be tight… do not loosen it. Same for the retaining ring on the pill…
once those things are done… do the following steps
- install tailcap, nice and tight so the inner tube gets pushed all the way down.
- install fully charged battery, and tighten head
Turn the light on, and assuming all works… celebrate! 
Did you disassemble the tail? (taking out the retaining ring, switch, rubber and metal buttons and the golden thin spring that sits in the groove around the button)
Big Hammer