Review: Wuben D1 [20% off coupon added]

How about you do the same instead of constantly calling me insulting disparaging names then? That’ll improve things right off the bat.

How do you come up with CRI 72? Watt does the manufacturer internal specs say? Your CRI equates to something like a 6.5 on a TCR rating. Sounds too sh*tty to me. Or 7 total TCR flaws. I doubt it.

Promised. Peace.

Measured with an Opple Lightmaster III, which is not a true spectrometer, but uses color filters and CCD, probably just a regular Bayer-matrix.

I have no part number of this LED, so can’t tell. It is likely a ‘Minimum CRI 70’ version.

How do you come to this conclusion?

Not a ‘conclusion’. Conclusions have to be anchored beyond guesses which this was. Totally. Just took .5 x 7 = 3.5 + 6.5 = 10 TCR. Pulled it outta my a*s just to illustrate watt if. :laughing: Butt was hoping ya had a least some kinda Reference Standard flash in hand that CRI’s well enuff to your eyes so that ya could reasonably assess to compare. Substandard equipment is no way to go through flash analyzing life. Butt I digress.

Ya havta have a Reference Standard to start with, right? The best most affordable way is through a flash. If you could get an Ozark Trail OT 50L which Reference Standards to a TCR ‘10’ for example you’d have that for an investment of $1.00. You must have something around over there that compares to the OT 50L’s TCR capabilities I would imagine?

PS. The true litmus test for determining TCR is shining off the color White. If your flash because of color-temp or tint influences pure White to look other than what it is in sunlight then ya got a TCR problem that could be important depending on its application. Like for instance reading all the colors in electrical wiring. The OT 50L shines off white just the way the white looks in sunlight. No flaws. No tint pollutions, etc. Just plain white is white. And that’s why it’s a TCR ‘10’. :student:

Yes. That will be the sun. Some may find it too greenish, but I always liked it. If it were on sale, it would be mine. Not that I’d dislike rosy tints, just the opposite. I have lotsa sw45k lights and like them indoors.

Ok Notta, you want to know how colors are rendered under the light of the D1, right? The answer is: Sufficiently well. Actually rendering is so good I don’t see where I would benefit from a higher CRI, taking into account lower output and/or runtime. There are mostly academic discussions ongoing about shades of green or brown in reflected light, and the probabilty you’re getting into a desaster when dandelion leaf looks like daisy leaf, but this is pointless in actual use. Todays CW LEDs are all good, at least the common ones. TUV (True Usablility Value) of 10.

Edit: Let’s try to stay with the topic, please.

Ok ya admit official CRI numbers are unknown at this time. Yer equip ya admit is substandard. So ya havta go by yer eyes that CRI is essentially excellent.

Fair enuff. Your eyes don’t necessarily lie, do they?

And you just made one of my main points in that TCR although subjective can also be more accurate than measuring equipment. Along those lines then the D1 may become yer Reference Standard moving forward in future reviews as it’s so good for TUV/TCR - since ya can’t get an OL 50L to do a side be side comparison.

I can confidentially now assume If the D1 is that good at TUV and TCR then I would bet a U2 boatload of Nitecores that the official LED CRI will be more like 90 or so. Certainly not 70, correct?

So by your TCR assessment I now might be more inclined to order a D1 someday. I sure as h*ll wouldn’t even consider it at CRI 70.

PS. Get rid of inferior equipment. It does ya no good credibility-wise. Yer eyes are clearly and by far more accurate. :open_mouth:

Yer thread. Done. Bagging out now as requested. Have fun. :slight_smile:

At now reconsider the outdoor beamshot. What do you see? Not so much from the trees, I admit. It’s a location I used for a more throwy light also.

You see the concrete (grey), red clinker bricks, a green door, quite a standard color, easy to see if it’s rendered good or bad. The socket of the building is dirty white. You see a reflector in the rear part, the only thing indicating the light is on in moon-mode. Distance is 23 m to flashlight. There’s a tree right behind it.

Anyway, like what you see?

And it’s not only about rendering, look at the spill. Focal length of the camera is 18mm. Light everywhere. Ask if you want a comparison with a reflector light.

That’s what this is about, showing what the D1 can do. Amazing, isn’t it?

“Anyway, like what you see?

And it’s not only about rendering, look at the spill. Focal length of the camera is 18mm. Light everywhere. Ask if you want a comparison with a reflector light.

That’s what this is about, showing what the D1 can do. Amazing, isn’t it?”

Is there a way to freeze the pics?

No image processing, straight from my old Pentax K10D.

Excellent TCR assuming yer camera is accurate. I would likely give it a ‘10’ based primarily on the dirty white rendition and grey transitions. I see no overlaying tints either. I see no flaws. Beam is superb. Well done, Wuben. This again is likely a CRI 90 led or better.

I think you have a TCR Reference Standard now in yer hands. So now ya can compare yer other flashes ya have to this.

The only point I’m further curious about is the reflective sign on the brick wall.

Watt sunshine color is it?

IIRC it is white/yellow. Might have been red 50 years ago.

Since it appears you and the camera are in great sync, could you take a noonish sunlit shot of everything too? I don’t expect any surprises butt it wouldn’t hurt to have it either.

In any case depending on price I’ll now prolly get one. Then I’ll reassess watt I see against especially whites and if it’s flawless I’ll put it in my signature as a TCR Reference Standard as well.

Congrats. :student: :+1: :beer:

PS. The browns/beiges in the far tree trunk is another tell here. This is most likely a TCR 10 flash. Flawless.

Thank you, I’ll try not to forget garbbing my camera when I’m driving there next time.

Stole an idea from Mr. B (again!), but used a Nichia 219B sw35:

Long live the 219B.

Nice review, sorry they are giving you such shit here. It’s a nice enough like but the UI leaves a lot to be desired in 2021. I personally did not like the cold white, low CRI output but that’s open for preference. If they are using an XP-L then that’s way behind the times too…

Thanks for your kind words, buck.

Correct me if I’m wrong but this is a regulated driver?

Yes it is.

:+1: