This light seems to ramp down not only quickly but also significantly. After about 90 seconds, it rams down to 20% or so. Is this normal?
I have seen the same behaviour. Calibrating the temperature sensor helps a bit.
Mine’s calibrated pretty well, so didn’t bother to tweak it.
Did notice the head starts warming up very quickly, which is good (good thermal path).
But it’s a small compact light that’s trying to belt out a LOT of wattage, so that heat ain’t going anywhere unless you’re soaking the light in ice-water.
90sec at full wattage = curling iron. It had better step down fast, and lots.
Seriously, I have no idea why people expect anything else.
People tend to be ignorant, against better judgement.
At least I do.
Just seems excessive. The ramp down is like a mount Everest decent.
If it were the size of a F13 with lots of thermal mass and lots of fins, it could sustain turbo way longer. But we’re talking about, as I mentioned, a small compact tubelight.
That’s why, if I had my druthers, “high” would be the brightest sustainable level, within reason, whereas “turbo” would be going well in excess of that in an unsustainable way, whether minutes or only seconds.
But people associate “turbo” with just the brightest setting, whether sustainable or not.
The EC4 series with its unibody construction and designed for shedding heat, can maintain its brightest setting from freshly-charged to last-gasp of its cells. There’s no “turbo” to speak of, as highest is highest for the duration.
A small light with little thermal mass and minimal heat-shedding capability might get nice and bright, but not for long at all.
Two questions, which EC4 are you referring to?
Also,
What is the point of the step down if you can just double click back to turbo again?
The ATR is supposed to protect the light and the user. Is you can force it back to turbo even while the light is overheating, what’s the point?
Its kind of like being able to disable your air bags in the car.
Any. My EC4GTs are the “greater throw” versions. Bodies are the same.
Unno. “Go to the forest, ask the monkey.”
Ie, light mfrs do whatever they want to do.
“high” should be max sustainable, “turbo” pushing beyond that but only for a short time (then stepped down, maybe to even lower levels to allow for cooling down).
Just like low/moonlight/firefly/”eco”, different terms are so carelessly confused, misused, and abused, to the point of being meaningless.
OK, I see what you mean.
Yeah, calibrate the temp and then you can also bump up the thermal limit if you want to get a little more time. As enthusiasts we've always asked a lot from components, just like this, and sometimes I am amazed that we ever even got some manufacturers to put out products that can push the levels like this. That is some risk for a manufacturer on several levels. I'm glad they don't remove the ability for us to have some control - like bumping back into turbo when it may not be smart to do so. If you need to, then you can, but of course if you're dumb about it then you risk skin or components...but at least you can. I prefer that over removing capabilities like we are seeing in so many products these days (Android and Windows being shining examples).
Oh you mean the Shadow JM07 clone, that brings back some serious nostalgia, one of my first and still one of my favorites, sadly just a beaten up empty host on my shelf these days:(
I picked up the ts21/sst20-4000k a few days ago. I have the light with me out of town without the manual. I have auto lock set to 1 minute. The power button flashes orange when it locks.
Sometimes I see the power button showing blue. Any idea what that means? I don’t recall the condition the light is in when I see blue.
What other light presentations, if any, does the power button indicate?