Project: SUNLIKE LT1 board (Option for 660nm Red)

And how is SunLike going? The current situation in his home country will not be ideal for having a business…

We will just sit back and hope for the best for him and see what and when things shake out.

Just stumbled across this thread am am definitely interested in two boards, i just need to figure out what LEDs i want and what i need to do.

I actually have experience of a Sunlike 3500K LED, Djozz kindly sent me some that he tested here: SunLike 3500K 95+ CRI midpower led from Seoul Semiconductors tested .
I only have the one currently in use, installed behind a TIR in a Jetbeam Jet-1MK, but it is one of my favourite LEDs and i believe this is down to the lack of peakiness in the blue part of the visible spectrum which has lead me to believe that most times when i wanted a warmer LED i actually wanted less peakiness rather than less blue in general. I’m actually keen to know what the cooler versions look like.

I can’t say this with any certainty but it’s possible that in some cases the warmth people are looking for in a 2000k LED is actually there in a 2700K LED without a blue peak. I’d be interested to know if anyone else feels the same.

An update: I had forgotten about this up until now but the other day I sent an email to LampMan. LampMan has ordered the boards and he says they should get to him in mid September. He apologizes for how long it has taken.

:+1:

:+1: :+1:

I finally found the button on the top of the page at sunlikelamp.com to show English text and selected the 18+18, 4000k & 2700K, with soldered LEDs, but the add to cart button does not work.
I did disable all my add blocking on that site, but it still doesn’t work. Tried a different browser and it still doesn’t work.

Strange, it loaded one to the shopping cart for me just now

It is working for me too, maybe try a different browser?

I wonder if I could just purchase the bare PCBs and solder my own E21As onto it. Looks like the pads might actually be compatible albeit a bit larger. I’d like to do something with a larger CCT range; possibly down to 2200K or even 2000K.

Yes, you can get the bare board.

I got it to work.

When I click the Add To Cart button, that button moves down, away from my mouse pointer, and I have to continue holding down my mouse button and move the pointer so it’s on top of the Add To Cart button, then release the mouse button.

Now I’m waiting for an email with Paypal instructions. I’m not clear on the total amount to pay and which currency to select.

Edit: instructions received, Paypal sent.

Hello. I just find 2 new orders today. And I already send 2 emails with paypal data.

Some days ago I finally ordered pcbs. It was 4 projects. For LT1 it will be 1.6mm 100pcs

Sorry for I am so late, too much orders (not LT1 pcb), and not so much orders for LT1. about 20-25 now

also I need upgrade all my Grow LED lamps

GB22 will be like quantum board, but better

- it is with led driver

  • 5 types:
  • 100% white samsung LM30b(h); - LM301b(h) with 660nm and 450nm with switch (GB22S); SunLike 3030 6v; SunLikePLUS 5050 (with uv and IR); StarLike®

Sorry if this is an obvious answer to most people here…
But does this board & LED component include the driver as well, such that all one needs to do is desolder the original component and solder in this replacement? No thermal paste required?

This is a replacement board for the BLF LT1 lantern, to be used directly with the original driver. So a little thermal paste can’t do harm although without it it will likely be fine too.

Edit: oh, maybe you refer to those square boards that Lampman just posted, I know nothing about those :person_facepalming:

Thanks. Yeah, got it that it’s an LT1 replacement board… just wasn’t sure the extent of the task involved. I do have some thermal paste lying around from a CPU replacement that I never ended up doing (determined it was too obsolete). I’m totally fine with soldering wires… just haven’t made any thermal paste applications. I know with CPU’s it’s really tricky to do right, as you don’t want any air bubbles. So, was just hoping this LT1 board replacement was only a matter of soldering a few wires.

As far as thermal paste goes, here we’re not dealing with the high wattages of CPUs and everything squishes down so air bubbles aren’t a problem. You just squirt a little bit of thermal paste on and push the board down.

Good to know — thanks, Sunny!