Damn. I just tried, and I can’t post anything here.
He's back! 
I’m guessing irrelevant posts promoting personal sales are against the rules for the forum…
Yep, I mark them as SPAM. 
Since magnets are mentioned, I’ll also confirm that the D4S/D4Sv2 tail magnet is really strong.
I don’t have an E07X, but have the earlier E07, which doesn’t have a magnet.
The PL47 tail magnets are mixed - since I ordered one each of different LED type, I noticed some of them are “OK”, but have one that is extremely weak (cannot hold the flashlight sideways even without battery).
I would like to mention the Wuben TO50R-HC, which also has a very strong magnet on the tailcap - I would dare say almost as strong as the Emisar D4S/D4Sv2 tail magnet.
how strong do u need those magnets to be ? if its enough to hold the light thats good enough.
I think usually something a bit stronger to hold the light more steadily.
I’ve noted some lights magnet can hold the light (on the side) IF the flashlight is not touched or moved. A slight touch could make the flashlight fall off.
A bit stronger magnet will make the light more steady and resist from falling if there’s a slight movement…
Has anyone managed to swap out the LED in the SC21 yet?
I want to put an Osram CSLNM1 in it, make a tiny lil thrower
It fits some standard optics that fit in the SC31PRO/B like the Carclo ones but it is physically slighter smaller in the overall diameter. It might need a little filing on a 16mm but it might fit. I will either swap the LED itself or see if a 16mm board will fit. It’s 3535 so there are a lot of options. Bezel didn’t have any glue or anything. I swapped a SC31PRO with a CSLNM1.FY and it’s a fun light but the outer portions have some rings with an smo reflector.
I’ve successfully swapped a KW CSLNM1.TG in.
A bit of filing was needed for the screw near the (-) wire, and wouldn’t be needed at all with a different MCPCB.
Samsung
Osram
Any recommendations for a SMO reflector?
Overall, I am pretty much impressed by the stable constant current regulation. They could tweak it a little bit for a constant temperature level of 45°C, allowing a little bit more regulated output.
thanks for the runtime chart
looks like about 900 lumen turbo for 3 minutes, then step down to sustained 240 lumens for over an hour… excellent!
fwiw, I find that setting a lower thermal ceiling (on my FWAA), increases the sustained lumens
iow, set to 40C, the light might sustain 300 lumens, instead of 240
I think this is because once internal temp triggers the 45C thermal ceiling, the light drops to a lower sustained output, due to the extra heat remaining inside the host.
Have had an SC21 (vapcell 850mah capacity) for about three weeks now and running it alongside my Wurkkos FC11 (vapcell 18350 with 1100mah capacity) during my nightly walks. In my personal use, I end up with the difference in battery capacity being a non-issue. On moonlight and low, either will last for days. I primarily use medium (100 lumens) on the SC21 and reliably get more than four hours. The 50 lumen low on the FC11 lacks the punch of the 100 lumen medium on the SC21, so I have to use medium on the FC11 (300 lumens) as well. My experience (not scientific testing) is that the SC21 provides about an hour more of runtime on medium, than the FC11 on medium. Either easily are sufficient for my two hour walks.
Note that I did not compare on high or turbo because if I need that much output, I will just use the FC11 with the 18650 battery tube.
Aaaw, heck. Bought one of these to growing collection!
Twice this weekend I’ve put my hand into a very hot pocket ’cause SC21 turned on in my pocket. 4click, people, 4 click.
Or, half twist?
Make a ring of wire and glue it on. Not only stops pocket activation but makes the button easy to find by feel alone. Washers work too.
I’ve never liked side switch pushbutton lights for this reason. If the light needs a software lockout it’s because the switch design is deficient. The d4v2 hasn’t been a problem yet because of the switch guard and fairly stiff pushbutton, but it takes some care to get those details right. Otherwise I’ve generally preferred recessed tail switches.
The Sofirn SP10S definitely has the accidental switch-on problem. Pretty much turns on anytime it goes in my pockets! 
That’s why it’s now my bedside flashlight. 
Recess the sideswitch, and guaranteed someone’ll bitch about it being hard to press while wearing gloves, or not being able to find it as easily vs it sticking up proud, etc.
Make it stiff, and someone’ll bitch that it’s hard to activate if you’re arthritic.
Basically, ask 10 people for how to “fix” a light’s design, and you’ll get 24 different and conflicting answers.