Sofirn SC21 mini

Since magnets are mentioned, I’ll also confirm that the D4S/D4Sv2 tail magnet is really strong.

I don’t have an E07X, but have the earlier E07, which doesn’t have a magnet.

The PL47 tail magnets are mixed - since I ordered one each of different LED type, I noticed some of them are “OK”, but have one that is extremely weak (cannot hold the flashlight sideways even without battery).

I would like to mention the Wuben TO50R-HC, which also has a very strong magnet on the tailcap - I would dare say almost as strong as the Emisar D4S/D4Sv2 tail magnet.

how strong do u need those magnets to be ? if its enough to hold the light thats good enough.

I think usually something a bit stronger to hold the light more steadily.

I’ve noted some lights magnet can hold the light (on the side) IF the flashlight is not touched or moved. A slight touch could make the flashlight fall off.

A bit stronger magnet will make the light more steady and resist from falling if there’s a slight movement…

Has anyone managed to swap out the LED in the SC21 yet?
I want to put an Osram CSLNM1 in it, make a tiny lil thrower

It fits some standard optics that fit in the SC31PRO/B like the Carclo ones but it is physically slighter smaller in the overall diameter. It might need a little filing on a 16mm but it might fit. I will either swap the LED itself or see if a 16mm board will fit. It’s 3535 so there are a lot of options. Bezel didn’t have any glue or anything. I swapped a SC31PRO with a CSLNM1.FY and it’s a fun light but the outer portions have some rings with an smo reflector.

I’ve successfully swapped a KW CSLNM1.TG in.

A bit of filing was needed for the screw near the (-) wire, and wouldn’t be needed at all with a different MCPCB.


Samsung

Osram

Any recommendations for a SMO reflector?

Overall, I am pretty much impressed by the stable constant current regulation. They could tweak it a little bit for a constant temperature level of 45°C, allowing a little bit more regulated output.

thanks for the runtime chart

looks like about 900 lumen turbo for 3 minutes, then step down to sustained 240 lumens for over an hour… excellent!

fwiw, I find that setting a lower thermal ceiling (on my FWAA), increases the sustained lumens

iow, set to 40C, the light might sustain 300 lumens, instead of 240

I think this is because once internal temp triggers the 45C thermal ceiling, the light drops to a lower sustained output, due to the extra heat remaining inside the host.

Have had an SC21 (vapcell 850mah capacity) for about three weeks now and running it alongside my Wurkkos FC11 (vapcell 18350 with 1100mah capacity) during my nightly walks. In my personal use, I end up with the difference in battery capacity being a non-issue. On moonlight and low, either will last for days. I primarily use medium (100 lumens) on the SC21 and reliably get more than four hours. The 50 lumen low on the FC11 lacks the punch of the 100 lumen medium on the SC21, so I have to use medium on the FC11 (300 lumens) as well. My experience (not scientific testing) is that the SC21 provides about an hour more of runtime on medium, than the FC11 on medium. Either easily are sufficient for my two hour walks.
Note that I did not compare on high or turbo because if I need that much output, I will just use the FC11 with the 18650 battery tube.

Aaaw, heck. Bought one of these to growing collection!

Twice this weekend I’ve put my hand into a very hot pocket ’cause SC21 turned on in my pocket. 4click, people, 4 click.

Or, half twist?

Make a ring of wire and glue it on. Not only stops pocket activation but makes the button easy to find by feel alone. Washers work too.

I’ve never liked side switch pushbutton lights for this reason. If the light needs a software lockout it’s because the switch design is deficient. The d4v2 hasn’t been a problem yet because of the switch guard and fairly stiff pushbutton, but it takes some care to get those details right. Otherwise I’ve generally preferred recessed tail switches.

The Sofirn SP10S definitely has the accidental switch-on problem. Pretty much turns on anytime it goes in my pockets! :rage: That’s why it’s now my bedside flashlight. :+1:

Recess the sideswitch, and guaranteed someone’ll bitch about it being hard to press while wearing gloves, or not being able to find it as easily vs it sticking up proud, etc.

Make it stiff, and someone’ll bitch that it’s hard to activate if you’re arthritic.

Basically, ask 10 people for how to “fix” a light’s design, and you’ll get 24 different and conflicting answers.

Until not that long ago, tail switches were more popular than side switches. I think people generally prefer tail switches. Lights may have transitioned to side switches because the drivers have become more complicated and it’s easier to use an electronic switch that is close to the driver board. I have not yet tried operating my d4v2 with winter gloves and I could see how it might be a problem, but it is not really a cold weather light to begin with.

To some extent yes. But that said, some designs of sideswitches are a lot better than others.

For example: The Zebralight SC51 is a classic light, but Zebralight received a lot of criticism about the switch. It was too easy to press accidentally. It stuck out of the light, was large and had a soft touch.

Zebralight took the criticism to heart and addressed it starting with the original SC600 and then continuing with the SC52 series.

  • They used a smaller switch boot.
  • They deeply recessed the switch
  • They used a different switch that required significantly more pressure to activate.

The result is excellent. Because the switch is deeply recessed, the structure of the light tends to hold clothing and objects in your pocket away from the switch boot. If something does touch the boot, the extra pressure required to activate makes pocket activation less likely.

At the same time, the switch is actually still very easy to locate by feel … much easier than the tiny protruding switch of an SP10. The Zebralight’s deep recess for the switch acts to funnel the thumb directly to the boot.

Result is a light like the SC600 or SC52 can be pocket-carried without lockout and with minimal chance of accidental pocket activation. Yes, there is still a chance it could accidentally activate in the pocket, but that chance is quite low. Much lower than with any other sideswitch light I’ve tried.

Unfortunately, Zebralight changed their switch again and their latest designs don’t quite recess the switch as much. The SC53, SC64 and SC5wII have less secure switches that aren’t quite as well built to resist accidental pocket activation as the SC52.

And then there’s lights like the SP10.
In the SP10, zero design effort was made to resist accidental pocket activation. The button is small, but it is metal, protrudes outside the body of the light, and requires no special pressure to activate. With this light, its either glue a washer around the button or use lockout.

I have a couple SP10s that I modded with Mtn 15mm drivers with Emisar D4 firmware. I also added rings cut from sheet aluminum around the buttons, which turned the protruding buttons into flush buttons. This helps, but still not enough that I would consider pocket carrying one without using lockout.

Of course this problem isn’t unique to sideswitch lights.
Many tailcap lights also have the same problem. Especially so ones with electronic switches that tend to require less travel to activate like the FW3A. This is why every FW3A I have has received the o-ring mod. Some of them have quite strong switches now. My stiffest FW3A switch requires more than 5 lbs of pressure to activate … easily enough that it can be safely pocket-carried without using any form of lockout.

I think the best solution to prevent accidental pocket activation might be something along the following:

  • Insert a sensor or some kind into the light that detects if anything is within an inch of the lens.
  • When you press the button to the turn the light on, the first thing that happens is the light activates the proximity sensor.
  • The light only turns on if the proximity sensor does not detect something next to the lens.

If it worked, you could have a pocket EDC light with a big easy-to-find protruding button, with no need to lock it out and no accidental pocket activation.

How to implement this? … no idea. I’m not an engineer. IR sensor maybe? Or maybe have the main LED turn on at 0.001 lumen moonlight and if the sensor registers a change in brightness when that happens, then the light does not turn on in higher power modes?

This would complicate the hardware, and also be set off by anything in front of the lens on purpose, such as a filter or diffuser. The basic issue is the pushbutton so I hope it is possible to fix the pushbutton.