I just want to clarify how anduril2’s SimpleUI is an acceptable choice if pre-configured in a way to please the “straighforward UI” crowd. Anduril2’s Simple UI was made to accommodate both types of users by 1- being simple and preventing confusion and 2- being configurable through a well hidden menu that switches the UI to the full-anduril UI.
1- It is a simple ramping UI. It has access to low, default (or memory), and max directly from OFF (respectively by doing: 1C, 1H, 2C — 1H means 1click and hold it down). This is very convenient and not much harder to learn than the reverse-clicky UI. There IS a voltage checker with 3 clicks, and 4 click lockout: those could be removed by the manufacturer. Exiting lockout is also much better, as it turns the light ON (either 4C, 4H or 5C for memory, moonlight or max).
2- by going in the full-UI (10clicks and hold the last one), “power-users” are satisfied, but the simple UI crowd can also, if they wish, configure the SimpleUI to their liking (ie remove memory, or enable hybrid memory (memory only remembers a set amount of minutes, then goes back to default brightnss. From the full UI, the simple UI can be configured and then switched back.
Since the manufacturer has to customize Anduril a little bit to choose safe power limits, nothing prevents Convoy/Simon to customize further and offer a choice of configurations on the store, like smooth ramping, 5 steps ramping and move lockout to 10 clicks (10C) and access to full-Anduril at 20 clicks-then-hold (20H), remove voltage check and lockout.
I think the only complaint left about Anduril2 Simple UI (apart from not having “tactical” or bicycle strobes by default) is the use of an e-switch , that some might not like or have difficulty to use. Indeed a clicky-switch cannot be “held” to use ramping and access functions. I guess Anduril could be made to work with a 2-switch design like with the L7.
I find the “you can just use Simple UI” a bit of a myth. Every Anduril 1/2 light I have used has had the temperature calibration woefully inaccurate out of the box, and the default max temp is set quite low at 45C. Thus if you want a light that isn’t neutered out of the box, then you need to enter Advanced UI, calibrate the temperature sensor and change max temp. This can be an exercise in frustration to new users as it isn’t explained well in the manual - I’m pretty tech savvy and it took me 3 attempts to do this on my DT8, including having to perform a factory reset after I screwed it up. I don’t think this thread needs to turn into a pro/against Anduril discussion, but the reality is that most non-flashlight enthusiasts find Anduril too complex, and a lot of Convoy’s customers are not flashlight enthusiasts. On the plus side, Anduril’s strobes would be an improvement on Biscotti/12-Groups awful alternating frequency strobe.
It’s a good point, there should be an easy way for the manufacturer to calibrate the lights before shipment. I think the problem is that the uC commonly used for Anduril is just not factory-calibrated for its thermometer and that there should be a way to get around that without having to test each driver….
This reminds me pages ago in the thread someone was IRATE because simons 12 mode ui didn't have a tactical mode. I don't ever remember Simon marketing any of his lights as an Oli... I mean tactical, tactical light..
I suggested Simon a new basic user interface like this 18 pages before…
based upon FSM code (Andúril 2 source code)
stripped down to the essential functionalities
keeping more or less the same layout for interactions (1C on/off, 4C lockout, 2H ramp down, ...)
optimized timing settings for clicks, blinks etc. as we know it from Andúril
logarithmic ramping curve (more linear to the human eye's perception)
optimized thermal regulation based upon predefined settings in source code
Thermal regulation could be hard-coded to anything between 50°C and 65°C. I think 55°C is a common value used by most manufacturers. Once Convoy uses the new AVR-1 chips like 816, 1616 or 3216 there is no necessity to calibrate the thermal sensor anymore.
I remember really liking this one LP, I would very happy with a ui like this, and ramping that works fine. Only reason I have bought the 4x18 sbt90, which I really want to buy, is bc so many negative reviews of the ramping "speed" I gues it is..
The uncalibrated temperature sensor has always been a big problem with the Anduril supported MCUs but should Simon decides offer Anduril then he should use the newly supported attiny 1-series, which solves this problem since they have a factory calibrated temperature sensor, as well as other improvements (1 pin programming, very small footprint for the 1616, cheaper than the 1634 used by Emisar).
Of course there may be other reasons Simon prefers to not offer Anduril, but this one isn’t valable anymore.
Dude, this is so true! Basic mods, straight up driver swaps, LED swaps and general improvements like copper MCPCB’s are pretty easy with a little practice. I have been having some serious eye problems and can’t seem to reliably do the basics with my decent magnifiers, hot air station and good iron. It is so frustrating! I hope the issues resolve, I have so many mods in the works and planned out! I can’t even reflow lighted tail caps right now. The resistors are so small that I can’t position them correctly.
I seem to remember seeing that the temperature will get auto-calibrated (within reasonable limits) after a factory reset (assuming the Anduril light has ‘factory reset’ function), but I haven’t seen it mention what temperature it will default to. It’s good to see someone post that it defaults to 23C…… however, I’ve tried doing ‘factory reset’ of several Anduril flashlights, and it seems after a factory reset (flashlight was not used, so it’s not hot, when doing the factory reset), then I immediately do a temperature check, it almost always blinks out 21C…. Thus, I thought after a factory reset, Anduril will calibrate the current temperature to be 21C, so it’s now that I notice it uses 23C.
(Although for us in warm tropical countries, the room temperature is generally around 30+ degrees Celsius. So that after a factory reset, the ambient temperature (which is around 30+ degrees Celsius) becomes calibrated as “21C”, if I do not calibrate the Anduril temperature further).
I have a question, assuming Anduril build that uses these new ATTiny 1-series with factory-calibrated temperature sensor.
Will this factory-calibrated temperature sensor be messed up after doing the Anduril “factory reset”? (reset to “23C” or “21C”)?
Sorry for the above questions, probably a bit off-topic here…
Can’t find these CCT at 3V in high Cri and standard sizes.Let me know if you find others source
I would use them on small host, maybe the boost driver is too large
Can you find a better spring solution for the M3 light? I think others have noticed it also but with the single spring in the tail it just isn't strong enough to keep the weight of the 26650 cells in contact with the brass button on the driver when set down on the tail, so the light cuts out. I notice with mine that if I'm on moonlight and set it down gently, it will cut out and actually shut off the light. On any normal/higher mode it will blink but not shut off. I've tried stretching the spring but of course that wasn't enough. It seems like at the base of the spring coils there is about 2-3mm of space that the spring will lower into as weight is put upon it, reducing the spring length maybe extra than was designed? But with the brass button on the driver instead of a spring, there is no give/support for when the battery moves in the tube. The spring quality is excellent, maybe just needs to be longer or made of thicker wire? Someone posted a photo here where they cut a small piece of rubber tubing to put below the spring to limit its travel/compression but that seems less than ideal solution. It's a minor but important small defect in an otherwise wonderful flashlight design.
