The uncalibrated temperature sensor has always been a big problem with the Anduril supported MCUs but should Simon decides offer Anduril then he should use the newly supported attiny 1-series, which solves this problem since they have a factory calibrated temperature sensor, as well as other improvements (1 pin programming, very small footprint for the 1616, cheaper than the 1634 used by Emisar).
Of course there may be other reasons Simon prefers to not offer Anduril, but this one isn’t valable anymore.
Dude, this is so true! Basic mods, straight up driver swaps, LED swaps and general improvements like copper MCPCB’s are pretty easy with a little practice. I have been having some serious eye problems and can’t seem to reliably do the basics with my decent magnifiers, hot air station and good iron. It is so frustrating! I hope the issues resolve, I have so many mods in the works and planned out! I can’t even reflow lighted tail caps right now. The resistors are so small that I can’t position them correctly.
I seem to remember seeing that the temperature will get auto-calibrated (within reasonable limits) after a factory reset (assuming the Anduril light has ‘factory reset’ function), but I haven’t seen it mention what temperature it will default to. It’s good to see someone post that it defaults to 23C…… however, I’ve tried doing ‘factory reset’ of several Anduril flashlights, and it seems after a factory reset (flashlight was not used, so it’s not hot, when doing the factory reset), then I immediately do a temperature check, it almost always blinks out 21C…. Thus, I thought after a factory reset, Anduril will calibrate the current temperature to be 21C, so it’s now that I notice it uses 23C.
(Although for us in warm tropical countries, the room temperature is generally around 30+ degrees Celsius. So that after a factory reset, the ambient temperature (which is around 30+ degrees Celsius) becomes calibrated as “21C”, if I do not calibrate the Anduril temperature further).
I have a question, assuming Anduril build that uses these new ATTiny 1-series with factory-calibrated temperature sensor.
Will this factory-calibrated temperature sensor be messed up after doing the Anduril “factory reset”? (reset to “23C” or “21C”)?
Sorry for the above questions, probably a bit off-topic here…
Can’t find these CCT at 3V in high Cri and standard sizes.Let me know if you find others source
I would use them on small host, maybe the boost driver is too large
Can you find a better spring solution for the M3 light? I think others have noticed it also but with the single spring in the tail it just isn't strong enough to keep the weight of the 26650 cells in contact with the brass button on the driver when set down on the tail, so the light cuts out. I notice with mine that if I'm on moonlight and set it down gently, it will cut out and actually shut off the light. On any normal/higher mode it will blink but not shut off. I've tried stretching the spring but of course that wasn't enough. It seems like at the base of the spring coils there is about 2-3mm of space that the spring will lower into as weight is put upon it, reducing the spring length maybe extra than was designed? But with the brass button on the driver instead of a spring, there is no give/support for when the battery moves in the tube. The spring quality is excellent, maybe just needs to be longer or made of thicker wire? Someone posted a photo here where they cut a small piece of rubber tubing to put below the spring to limit its travel/compression but that seems less than ideal solution. It's a minor but important small defect in an otherwise wonderful flashlight design.
