Side switches have three homes: on fat lights (3+18650), long lights, and extra stubby lights.
BUT…
The switch must be large, recessed, and easy located. Rubber covers preferred. These things are unlikely on a truly tiny 14500. The SC52 was a favorite zebralight of mine, but the diameter was pushing it for an AA.
An oring modded FW is really my preference.
The other way ‘round: Tail switches have their home in lights that you would hold in ’the tactical way’.
Acebeams L35 (and probably many other lights) is a nice example of how to do it right: Turbo on tailswitch, normal operation on side switch. Locating the switch is no problem if there’s a clip. I’m using the D4V2 and Wuben E05-I blindly, just like a SC5c.
I think more detail is required. a well-done side switch (zebralight SC6x series) is easily found. The whole light basically guides you to it. And I’ve never had an accidental activation. At the same time, a protruding side switch is a disaster in-pocket. And then there’s my Thrunite T10T V2, which I can hardly find the switch on despite indexing it with the clip.
I have a T10T V2 w no clip
the only way to find the sideswitch is with my eyes
fortunately, the FWAA does not have a sideswitch to worry about… lol
I would like a stainless steel FWAA. It is small enough that even in SS, the weight would be manageable.
here are the weights with battery:
FWAA Cu: 91 grams
FWAA Ti: 67.1 grams
FWAA aluminum: 55.2 grams
so, I got the Cu FWAA w sst-20 4000k
I like the FWAA a lot, and the LEDs are not green tinted like a 219c, so am debating buying another SST-20 4000k
should I get a Shiny Ti, or Ti CU? lol
maybe Ti for the weight, but comparing aluminum weight and cost, and considering the heat disadvantage, i would say ‘Ti not worth it’
(same for my bicycles 
)
Seems like I missed the fun, I’m for titanium + copper - good tail and glass drop protection and normal heat dissipation, but between the titanium tailcap and the copper part with the driver, I would put a standard aluminum case 
.
I can say from experience that Titanium is tough to machine, 15% heavier than aluminum. I also have an aluminum bicycle and its plenty light enough for me. Copper is also difficult to machine and tarnishes quickly.
.
sounds like your wish could come true if you buy one of each and lego them… :partying_face:
however,
Aluminium :confounded:
is Not Fancy… no Bling!
Im loving my Fancy Cu FWAA with Fancy Sapphire Lens, and Fancy Glow:
Bling! Bling! Bling!
Dances with Bling!:
.
Nice photos, Jonathan.
I went with Copper as well for my FWAA. Seemed the logical choice, as the others like titanium and steel would be awful for heat management in this very tiny light.
Well, if only polished aluminum like a mirror or coated with nickel))
Yes, I remembered 1 problem with a combination of copper / steel / aluminum / titanium, I don’t remember exactly, but some of these metal pairs tend to diffuse into each other in a threaded contact, so it will be difficult to unscrew, need to lubricate often
This light is small enough and nice enough that I think a Timascus run would be viable.
2xAA in Beryllium/Copper alloy.
(one can dream right?)
TiCu as always but with 219B emitters
Ti Cu looks very nice… are you happy with the thermal properties?
Im loving my Cu Cu…
tempted to get a Ti Ti
then I could lego a Ti Cu and a Cu Ti Too (why be normal?)… 
should I get shiny or sandblasted?… hmmm
Thermal properties…head will get hot fast like on CuCu but the rest of the body won’t. Thermal regulation then adjust brightness (just a tad faster than on CuCu but negligeable in real life).
Why TiCu? Front and back end of the flashlight will survive much more torture without being damaged where Cu driver section will absorb massive heat and also regulate it via driver much better than “it’s not that hot” full Ti. And it’s not so heavy as full Cu.
thanks for your thoughts
I set my Cu Cu to 40C thermal limit
not too hot to Hold on Turbo
really like the smooth, predictable, heat spread on the Cu Cu
you make good points about the Ti being less likely to dent than Cu… a Ti bezel cant be bad… but I dont drop my lights, they get babied… and I dont use Turbo… Im happy with a 400 lumen ceiling (78/150)… I do not keep the stock 150/150 ceiling setting in Simple Mode.
the only Turbo access is from off in Advanced, and Im usually in Simple, set to 12 stepped modes…
I know your use is different, and you like Turbo… I dont like 4C lockout, so I set low ceilings instead.
fun lights, very versatile
When it comes to my copper lights, I always treat them with “kid gloves.” Very good about not dropping. I love the clean look of the fresh copper, but there’s also something nice about the mottled tarnished copper look. I cleaned up mine twice already and find this particular grade of copper tarnishes a little faster than my other long term owned copper light (an Olight i3e-Cu). The Astrolux A01 I have is coated, but I find that it develops some tarnish underneath.
