I know entry level mods, but yet I’m gunna post my first post on this thread!
sw40 d200 reflowed into my Tool AA 2.0. Rosier than I was expecting but I really like it! It originally had the hideous xpl2.
Osram nm1 swap into my BLF x5. Definitely regret due to focusing issues. And there’s no led gasket factory, so I’m shaving down one of Simon’s. Gave up for today!
Still looking for good 219c 4000k d240 bare to buy
I built Convoy S3 with Luxeon MZ5700K 90cri, Convoys TIR lens and LD-A4 driver. Very nice paper white beam and very much heat. Good light to use in short bursts if run on turbo. On ~30% and ~4A gives plenty of light and heat is manageable.
Beam distance 3m.
Looks nice, but what is that?
Mine MZs are very green, good that your’s is better
Thanks. I only bought these, because they were so cheap and seemed interesting. I’m positively surprised.
Simple emitter swap in FWAA
- The ring of the Sofirn SP36 and Wurkkos HD20 is the same size. There’s an o-ring on the HD20. I swap them. All photos with the aux on high.
- I also put a piece of electric tape behind the SP36 button as it was too bright even on low. Now the intensity on high is about the D4V2S aux green on low using wall bounce. It’s not intrusive at all yet I can see it at night.
- The green diffuser cap is from SX25A6 kit
- There’s an extra 2 moonlights for the HD20. You have to first switch to either flood or spot, turn it off completely and then activate moon. There’s 3 moon light brightness.
I’m really liking the all copper heat sink liquid cooler. I was wanting to make something very similar. Keep us posted please. Looking great so far.
Barely a "Mod" but this was something i learned on a sales thread here on BLF recently and it was AWESOMEly helpful to not scratch the beautiful finish of my brand new light! thanks to the ingenuity of Timbo114 (or Boaz, depends who you ask ;) ) and mattlward for bringing this to my attention!
The Soda Straw Trick (TM)
Compared to the below THIS travesty on my green one!
It worked Great! and because the clip is so tight to begin with, i think small pieces of the straw is still stuck underneath which is fine with me because its added just a little tension and "slip resistance"
Thanks again! Wish i knew about this before!
Another no scratch trick is to put a layer of electrical or duct tape on the underside of the clip. Trim with scalpel or sharp knife before clipping it on. Small straws slipped over the ends also work if not picky about it’s visibility
I modded a Jaxman E3 and a Convoy T2.
The Jaxman E3 was turned into a triple. Pieces:
- MCPCB and TIR optic from FWAAs
- LEDs: I replaced the original Nichia 5000K 70 CRI for some Nichia 5700K 90CRI
- Driver: H17f from MTN Electronics
- Forward Clicky Switch
- Battery tube from the Convoy T2
- Clip, screws and bezel “torched” for a darker mood
- GITD powder + UV glue for the “GITD dot” in the pocket clip
Besides the hole in te middle of the shelf (to pass the wires), no major mods were made to the host.
I had to use the driver retaining ring reversed so that it made contact with the driver without damaging the 7135 chips.
The fwd clicky switch had the 4 corners filed to fit well in the tailcap.
I also used an aluminium “spacer” from led4power and a brass ring to prevent the spacer from moving.
The Convoy T2 now has:
- L4P MCPCB with Luxeon V2 3000K
- Driver: H17f from MTN Electronics
- Forward Clicky Switch
- Clip, screws and bezel “torched” for a darker mood
The tube is from my older Convoy. Like in the Jaxman E3, I had to use the driver retaining ring reversed and I filed the fwd clicky switch 4 corners.
I had to file/grind the shelf (because it has some inner raised edges) and I had to fo the same with the 16mm PCB to make it smaller in diameter. The reflector in use is the original.
This is how they look like:
Nice pocket pair MascaratumB 
wow! great mods!
you sacrificed Anduril in favor of H17f…
got rid of the FWAA eSwitch… and
gained a much better pocket clip too
great LED pairing!
I like warm and cooler pairings too:
Very nice MascaratumB
I attempted to mod a Zebralight again today. This time my SC80, hoping to replace the cool white XPG with something more modern.
Still no luck.
I can’t get anything at all under the lens retaining ring. Even the tip of a fresh exacto knife blade won’t go in.
Also, pressing down on the lens seems to do nothing. The lens does not go down and there is no gap to insert anything. Perhaps I need to press harder? Or maybe I need to destroy the lens to remove the ring?
Thanks pinkpanda3310 
This way each one won’t feel alone 
Thanks jon_slider
Yup, in this case I sacrificed because I saw that the MCPCB from the FWAA fitted perfcetly, unlike my previous attempt here ! The FWAA and the Anduril driver will hopefully serve other purposes, or not. I haven’t found a good solution to make it work again, due to the PCB/head diameter and height.
But now I a have this T2 in 3000K, the FWAA in 4000K and the E3 in 5700K and I am happy with them , despite not all are Nichias or high CRI
Thank you Geuzzz
As far as I am aware this is what others have done.
Smashing the lens is how I’ve done it before but now after following id30209’s advice I hammer a thin tool (a knife, he uses a thin flat screwdriver) at a shallow angle. On the SC64 and H600 the tool gets quite easily under the retention ring, on a H53 I had to hammer pretty hard, now I’m off to try that on a SC700D but I heard it was harder on this model.
Thermal shock methods can work wonders. Get a can of CO2 duster and a small butane torch. Heat the aluminum evenly as hot as you feel can be safely tolerated by the light. Ideally the light will be held in a vice bezel up. Have your prying tool ready, and then spray the CO2 duster inverted on the glass/ss until frosty (15-20s). Go for it!
You were right, a thin screwdriver at a shallow angle do the magic.
And SC700D is even easier to open. Bezel ring is not that hard pressed in