Just got this in last week and it is a wonderful light! But, I am selling it because ML mode is not quite as low as my D4V2 SST-20 version. The cyan light has the CC driver and the SST-20 light is the standard FET. This is expected and I did not realize it.
The light works as expected, all the aux led’s are good, main emitters are as well. I have the SS bezel, magnetic tailcap and an extra optic. The clip was installed with a soda straw, so no scratches under it.
My asking price is what I paid + USPS priority mail in the US. $57.48 + shipping.
I would consider trading for the same light with the original FET driver.
Have you tried the new dynamic PWM code? It will improve dimming a lot. It is brand new so I’m sure your light does not have it. You need the reflash cable.
I have not, but TK indicated that it would not make a difference with this driver. But, you bet I am going to try it on my other D4V2’s and FW3A’s when I have a reason to take them apart! This was the first light from Hank with that driver, it has it’s place, but if you really need moon levels 1/150 or 2/150 this is not the driver for you.
Visually, twice the brightness of my SST20 light with conventional driver. I am guessing somewhere between 1.5 and 3 lumens, no way to measure. If I could set it to 2, it would not be a problem. The eye issues I have lead to no vision at all for about 30 seconds if I flood my eyes with to much light. I doubt that most people would ever care.
Thank you I appreciate it I’ve never messed with the settings on them I may have to mess with it, you are selling at a good price I bet it will be sold before the end of the day.
Oh hmm, I’m confused then, I thought the CC driver was the one that patch was for. I better check into it further before buying a light. None of us really needs moon mode (we mostly don’t need these lights at all, we buy them because we like them) but if we’re trying to make uncompromising lights, we shouldn’t have to deal with flickery or jumpy moon modes. Anyway, thanks.
genius idea! i wish i knew this before i scratched the CRAP out of my new d4sv2 green and cyan.. agghh.
Also, i have this light, with same emitters and driver, and i set ML to 1/150 and it is LOW. the only problem i have with this new driver and ML is that ramping between the lowest level 1 and anything thats not BRIGHT, is humanly impossible becasue the low end of the ramp moves so fast. i understand it is a result of the hardware not the software but still.. it is kindve a pain. because ML is SO LOW and level 2 and 3 are just significantly brighter..
Yes that is the one, but I have sold the D4v2 that had it. But I have it in my dt8 as well. I could be wrong but I will check when I get home. I think I also have it in my D4v2 with all sw45k, but it's at the house right now. Will check back later today/tomorrow with more info
I’d been using the straw trick forever and thought I’d invented it ... Regardless of where it came from it’s the only way to add or remove a clip . Needle nose pliers help to tug the straw under the clip once you get them started and plastic dental picks can help lift the clip.