Thanks Jason WW for your response.
A follow-up question: If I use a 26700 cell instead of a 26800, will adding some small magnets on top of the 26700 cell help improve the contact?
It can work, but the danger factor is a bit high. Magnets can sometimes slip and make contact with the flashlight body. Like if you drop it, it could potentially cause a battery short. You might can add some glue to the magnets edge so it can’t slide, but I personally just stay away from using magnets.
I have an Aneng AN8008. Just recently got some fuse for measuring amps since it came with a blown fuse. Tried to measure a convoy S2+ and it shows the amps but it has a very audible buzzing to it. Not sure if this is a feature but I don’t see a mention about this in HKJ’s review. Is this common with DMMs?
If you had someone 3d print a spacer that has a hole in the middle you could put a piece of brass rod in the hole (or glue in the magnets).
That reminds me, you can buy a spacer.
Or
They might be a little too thin, though.
Do any of the Hank lights (Emisar/Noctigon) come with Anduril 2?
None of the dmm I have make a sound. You really don’t want to use that for measuring amps anyway. It introduces extra resistance and it never reads accurately. For measuring stuff over an amp or so, I’d get a clamp style ammeter. Use a thick wire like this.
I use the UNI T UT210E. A dmm is pretty accurate at lower amperages like under an amp. Great for microamp parasitic drain measurements.
Thanks Jason WW for your kind responses.
I have found two sellers on Ali Express who sell small number of 26800 cells at an affordable price. I have ordered two cells from one of them, which altogether cost about US$25, inclusive of shipping fee. This is good enough. Will see whether they are any good.
There is another big wholesaler on Ali Express who sells big lots of QB 26800 cells, the minimum order is 50 pieces.
Battery sellers in the USA and in The Netherlands who have QB26800 battery in stock just would not ship their lithium batteries to Singapore.
Similarly, Banggood also cannot ship lithium batteries to Singapore. But most of the Chinese sellers on Ali Express can without any problem. Isn’t Banggood also based in China? I wonder why Banggood cannot ship lithium batteries to Singapore.
Banggood has main warehouses in China, but also smaller ones around the globe. I imagine some of the smaller sellers are breaking the law and hoping they don’t get caught. Like not declaring it as a battery and hoping it doesn’t get opened at customs. That’s my guess, it has certainly been done by certain companies in the past.
How many of you folks label your spare flashlight parts?
I have a drawer and a box full of “flashlight stuff.” A lot of little ziplock bags with a small item inside, like a single o-ring. A number of small bags of little parts I’d ordered from LightHound, back in the day. Thankfully, LightHound actually included a part title along with the SKU, so you can remember what is in it (provided you didn’t move stuff between bags). But these others? Wow. Many I’ve no idea what light they belong to. O-rings are easy—you can always test-fit them. But what about body tubes and switch boots?
I started to get into the habit of labeling. I went to a dollar store and bought packs of those little ziplock bags, big enough to fit a lot of small flashlight parts. I’ll put an item inside, take a piece of scrap paper and write down the flashlight for that part. Some bags are good with an opaque side, slightly matte, so you can write on them with a Sharpie and not smear.
For a few, it took me a while to finally figure out their matching flashlight. Searching on SKU often doesn’t help much. In one case, the part didn’t come up, but an image hit did. Ah, Astrolux S43 body tubes. 
Anyway, for those of you building collections or already have a good number of parts… get labeling! Do it before you start forgetting. It’ll save you a ton of hassle later on in the future.
Yeah I thought the buzzing sound was weird. I don’t measure amps that often to justify a clamp meter. I’ll stick to measuring voltage and leave the amps to reviewers. Thanks for the response 
Great advice on labeling!
You think you’ll remember later, but time and other stuff will make you forget. This also holds true for many things in life, the more you can document stuff in the moment, the better you will remember later.
This is more a comment than a question. We have affordable flashlight technology that can now vaguely illuminate 1 mile (1620 meters away). Yes it’s 3M cd for 2.5km+ but the adequate luminescence distance of that is approximately 1/3 of that which is a mile. A mile is 5,280 feet. In many areas of the United States and around the world, the thick cloud cover at night decreases to well below 5000 feet. This is why Michael from The Proper People was able to massively illuminate the clouds above the abandoned radar base in Vermont with the stock Thrunite TN40S with 345K cd.
Here in the San Fernando and San Gabriel Valleys of Southern California, the cloud cover at night, when there is any cloud cover at all, starts at 10,000 to 15,000 feet. I’ve tried the Thrunite TN42VN Oslon Black, the stock BLF GT70 in both NW and CW and both together, the Acebeam X65VN, the stock Acebeam K75, the modded Mateminco MT90+VN Spec 3, and now finally a stock Mateminco FW1 LEP. Not a single one of these aforementioned throwers can touch the bottom of any cloud where I reside.
Maybe by the time I am an old man, the affordable flashlight technology can adequately illuminate 10,000 to 15,000 feet away? Bounce some clouds with an affordable flashlight here in the San Fernando and San Gabriel Valleys of Southern California?
Yes, they say so in the product pages, though I think they are not yet shipping with the latest builds. If you buy one, you should also get the programming key ($14.50) so you can flash the latest code into your light. There are some new features that make the current development build noticeably better than the old stuff.
I have some cheap 3aaa lights that are probably unregulated except for a ballast resistor. Is it likely to be safe to run them on L92 AAA lithium cells, which have slightly higher voltage than alkaleaks? Or could the higher resulting current fry the leds? Thanks.
If you buy older lights say 5-10 year old but they are new stock unused, would degradation of any parts be concern apart from batteries ?
Move to the San Francisco Bay Area… and yeah, you’ll have lots of low flying clouds that could be illuminated by a powerful thrower like a TN40S, if not a massive wall of white due to fog.
No. LED’s do not degrade when not in use. And certainly metal should be fine as long as there aren’t any moisture sensitive parts, or inferior stainless steel that might rust. I’ve got flashlights with rubber switch boots that are from 2008 and they’re just as pliable and intact as when they were new.
Generally only electrolytic caps, as they can dry out over a decade or so.
Lights in general don’t (as in have no need to) use electrolytics.
I’d touch-up (clean and relube) O-rings, though, as they can age a bit.
I went out and got some 1½” x 1½” ziplocks for those small parts. Was the best for sorting those centering gaskets. And then the small screws for the clips, the re-flowed LEDs, and so many little ‘O’ rings.
But my storage box is getting overgrown – have to upgrade that also.