Sold: Brand new cyan D4V2 with 219B SW45k emitters

Man, I just bought one with 219b mix how bright are we talking?

Yes, the CC driver going from turbo or high modes to ML causes the LED’s to delay in lighting if set to 1 or 2. Hank does not consider this a flaw.

Visually, twice the brightness of my SST20 light with conventional driver. I am guessing somewhere between 1.5 and 3 lumens, no way to measure. If I could set it to 2, it would not be a problem. The eye issues I have lead to no vision at all for about 30 seconds if I flood my eyes with to much light. I doubt that most people would ever care.

Thank you I appreciate it I’ve never messed with the settings on them I may have to mess with it, you are selling at a good price I bet it will be sold before the end of the day.

Oh hmm, I’m confused then, I thought the CC driver was the one that patch was for. I better check into it further before buying a light. None of us really needs moon mode (we mostly don’t need these lights at all, we buy them because we like them) but if we’re trying to make uncompromising lights, we shouldn’t have to deal with flickery or jumpy moon modes. Anyway, thanks.

Am I the only one that does not know what installing the clip with a soda straw means?

Straw over the clip arms when pushed on prevents scratches on the barrel. :slight_smile:

genius idea! i wish i knew this before i scratched the CRAP out of my new d4sv2 green and cyan.. agghh.

Also, i have this light, with same emitters and driver, and i set ML to 1/150 and it is LOW. the only problem i have with this new driver and ML is that ramping between the lowest level 1 and anything thats not BRIGHT, is humanly impossible becasue the low end of the ramp moves so fast. i understand it is a result of the hardware not the software but still.. it is kindve a pain. because ML is SO LOW and level 2 and 3 are just significantly brighter..

Artie, is your driver the white one with components on the battery side?

Best pic I could get comparing ML on the 2 lights…

Yes that is the one, but I have sold the D4v2 that had it. But I have it in my dt8 as well. I could be wrong but I will check when I get home. I think I also have it in my D4v2 with all sw45k, but it's at the house right now. Will check back later today/tomorrow with more info

[quote=ArtieT59]

genius idea! i wish i knew this before i scratched the CRAP out of my new d4sv2 green and cyan… agghh.

Thank you Sir !
I am the “Straw Guy”

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via GIPHY

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I used it on all my Copper lights.
You can also remove clips using the straw.

I’d been using the straw trick forever and thought I’d invented it ... Regardless of where it came from it’s the only way to add or remove a clip . Needle nose pliers help to tug the straw under the clip once you get them started and plastic dental picks can help lift the clip.

Some of us are only flashlight smart.

Great light

Bump Bump

Timbo... Boaz... I challenge you both!

what's your next best tip / trick / "hack" (I hate that word)

If anyone can think of a replacement to the speed bump, that would be a money maker.

I don't know how, but magnets would solve that problem !

I don’t mean to go off topic but you could you give more info about this code. What version of Anduril do I need to flash to have this feature?

The what? Did I miss something?

This is now in TK’s Anduril 2 branch. There is a thread about it: better low modes with dynamic PWM

[quote=timbo114]

Not to get too off topic, but thank you! and look here https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/37376/10314

Can’t we also keep auxiliary lights on with modification of TK’s firmware.

Try flashing the latest firmware, the ramp is much improved, very linear, and the low modes are much more easily selectable. Also, the jump between levels 2 and 3 is gone. Also the slow turn on is being worked on, there is already a solution that was temporarily disabled, if I understand correctly, because it turns out that the fix needs to be calibrated for every flashlight.