Maybe try a couple of stunts out before it sells? 
If the pandemic shortages are still going strong, the blue book could be low.
Dude those Kleins are collectible. Good score!
Something no one has mentioned is that the bike uses 26in wheels and cantilever brakes. The industry standards changed years ago to what they call 29in wheels and disc brakes. I’m afraid most avid bikers would not be interested in this bike as it would be considered obsolete by most. From what I understand quality 26in tires and tubes are getting hard to find. If you keep it that shouldn’t matter as unless you ride it often or long distances a set of tire will probably last years.
If you decide to sell I’d initially ask around $500. Klein’s haven’t been made since 2009 but still have a small following and you might get a guy who’d buy it out of nostalgia.
A collector wouldn’t be interested in this bike for several reasons.
100%
Nice bike, but its a Trek klein. the collectible stuff is from Chehalis (pre-klein), and then only certain frames and premium paint jobs
I still mountain bike often and have a 29" wheel hard tail/ crows country Felt 960 with about $1800 in parts on it.
the industry standard WAS 29" when I bought mine in 2017, it's much more of a standard to have a 27.5" bike now, although 29" is still,popular. 26" is still very popular too with the downhill and stunt community of mountain bikers. I still have a 20year old jamis 26"bike.
OP-
id keep the KLein, they made great bikes. Your parts are outdated but the frame isn't. Biggest things to try and update are drivetrain and BRAKES. especially BRAKES.
have fun on it and if you like it, ride it! Upgrade parts (if you can) as hints BRAKE. The bicycle community is fill with a bunch of snobs like any community. People will always disagree, but just like here. If you enjoy your $20 Convoy triple, don't throw it out for a d4v2 lol..
Thanks again all.
Looks like I have me some learning to do to see if it’s in ride-able shape. I have a buddy who is an ex-racer. If I can convince him to leave his hiddy-hole down in Alpine. To take a look at it.
There is a really nice bike shop here in town but I want to put as little extra money into this as possible until I figure out if starting to ride again after all these years is in the cards for me.
It does have grip shifters. And I believe all the gear is OEM.
I’ll know more after I get it home tomorrow.
I should have asked this before I put in my bid. But the moment overcame me.
Always nice to find such knowledgeable and helpful folks at the BLF.
A further question. It has the little clippie looking pedals that obviously are made for specialty bike shoes.
I’ll need to change those out to something that works with normal street shoes.
Trying to stay on the cheap side.
Recommendations?
All the Best,
Jeff
I have a pair of these on my hybrid, use them as a guide, there are cheaper options. Pedals One thing I can stress to you is sizing the bike. You haven’t said what size the bike is, nor what size you are. If you and the bike aren’t a fit don’t drop a penny on it, flip it and move on.
I’m kinda large 6’3”, 33” inseam.
Don’t know what size the bike is.
I didn’t even think about fit until after I pressed the button. Actually I apparently didn’t think all that much……
Frame size is measured from the crank axle center to the top of the seat tube (I believe).
About what size would be correct in a Mtn. Bike frame?
Thanks,
Jeff
In a road bike probably a 60cm, and XL in a mountain bike. You MIGHT fit on a 58cm/L.
Thanks
try it anyway
it looks smallish but it is hard to tell with a mt bike
there is more wiggle room in ‘size’ than a road bike
if you can ride it then do !
also you need to adjust it for your comfort, which may take several rides to dial in
there are web articles on bike fit, lots of them
maybe check the REI site
they usually make sense
Good info here. I might add that that if it doesn’t fit don’t waste money trying to MAKE it fit, (changing stem,handlebars, raising the seat etc) it never works.
you might make it work with just one kludge but not 2 or 3
one of my kleins [the fanciest, the quantum race pro] is slightly too small
but it came with a ‘setback seat post’
now it’s like goldilocks oatmeal
just right
plus all dura ace!
$475
it;s a 2001
worlds most expensive paint, also
i think they called the color ‘plum crazy’
purple metallic fade into midnight blue
wle
You can get a better idea of which of the two years this model was made at Bicyclebluebook where they list components as well as a guide for average price. 2001 https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/value-guide/product/35648/ 2002 https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/value-guide/product/37374/
It was either made in 2001 or 2002 and since there were different rims and different brands of rear shock used for each year that should allow you to decide which. MSRP was either $1,750 for the 2001 or $1,500 for 2002. Lots of people look with a bunch of skepticism at the suggested prices they come up with, especially these days with new bikes being so hard to find. A 20 year old MTB can be a great bike if properly cared for and stored over the years. I own two of them. It’s a good idea to inspect the tires for age related deterioration and replace the brake pads if they are hardened with age. New pads stop a lot better than brittle ones. The fastest way to make this bike way too expensive is to take it to a bike shop. You can find videos on how to maintain bikes yourself with very few specialized tools. Don’t put any money into it if you will resell it, just clean and polish it if needed.
If you are 6’ 3” tall the likelihood of this bike fitting you is not great. Using a really long seatpost is a bad idea to make if fit as the frame geometry will be off. I’m at the other end of the height scale for humans and bought a couple of bikes at police auctions where you could look at them from a distance but not up close. It was a real crap shoot and most times did not work out. The bikes were great for the price but weren’t a good fit for my height.
If you want other peoples opinions on how much it is worth, check out this site
Classic and Vintage Bicycles: Whats it Worth? Appraisals. Classic and Vintage Bicycles: Whats it Worth? Appraisals. - Bike Forums It’s free to join and you can’t post a picture until you have 10 posts but there are pictures at the bicyclebluebook website you can have people look at.
just post it on craigslist for $2000 and see what happens
25 emails the first day means too low
re list for 2500
conversely no emails in a week means price is too high to sell fast
go down if you need to sell
otherwise whatever!
That’s an excellent bicycle. Here’s some info—-Klein Bikes - Gary Klein's Aluminium Framed Bicycle
Pricing is a ?.
Got it home just now.
I lucked out, the frame has Large on a sticker.
My fat ass does take up about 80% of the rear shock travel.
The tires look nearly new. The tubes seems to be holding air after I pumped them up.
The rear derailleur seems to be threaded incorrectly. The chain rubs on section between the two wheels. Like it is on the wrong side.
I used to have a chain tool someplace. Haven’t seen it for 25 years.
Looks like I’ve got: shimano deore front – x7 rear, bontranger cranks, rolf satellite rims, fox rear shock, kenda klaw xt rubber, wtb seat. Shimano clincher breaks.
Feeling a little better about it now that it looks like it will fit me (perhaps). And nothing seems bent or bound up.
Need to get me a skid lid to keep my old man brains on the inside.
And holy crap is this geared low. Where was this kind of thing when I was a kid living halfway down the steepest hill in the whole neighborhood?
Here it’s flat, I’ll never get to that smallest crank wheel.
If I can get my training wheels off after all these years, I’ll enjoy it.
My bud in Alpine wants me to come ride with him. Hell, I’ll need a heart lung transplant before I can keep up….
Thanks again for all the help!
All the Best,
Jeff
see if you can lock the shocks—will be much faster to ride
be careful with that rear derailleur
adjustment mistakes can destroy the whole frame (really)
wle
I’m getting my old Schwinn Traveller back into shape… so I can get back into shape.
Def needs new rubber inside and out. Went over the chain and gears already, they look pretty good despite hints of rust on the chain (even if I replace it, bfd). Got new cables for brakes to use for poking through my car’s sunroof’s drain-tubes, so plenty extra in both long/short lengths.
Mine came with standard cheese-grater pedals, work great on sneakers, ’though I wouldn’t want to bike barefooty on ’em.
If you got dress-shoes you might be considering, beware that cheese-graters will chew up the nice untouched surface of the sole that doesn’t come in contact with the ground. But any flats should be fine.