Zebralight SC64c LE with LH351D NOT high CRI

That makes a lot of sense to me. The COVID impact on manufacturing has been extensive. SO MANY supply chains have been disrupted or delayed. And pressure to keep up appearances means corners get cut. Who knows how many SC64c LE’s ended up with low CRI emitters? Could be a half dozen, could be 100. I just hope Zebralight holds to good customer service and gets these lights replaced upon customer request. Frankly, the labor cost for ZL to change out the emitter probably ends up being the cost of the light… so it’s a wash—replacement. They could stamp the problem lights with a “D” or “S” and then sell at a clearance price to make back costs.

I love the body design of the SC64. It almost looks steampunk to me. Such an interesting look. That massive switch. The curvy body. The grooves. And the wonderful size. I don’t use mine much because I inadvertently became a flashlight accumulator. Way too many. One day I will purge… but the SC64c LE will always stay with me. It’s just a great flashlight in so many respects. The switch is the bomb. Added some o-rings for accentuated grip (photo below is old—moved the top o-ring down, so there’s a cluster of 3 near the base).

Great post Igor, thank you

The lowest moonlight on my recently purchased SC64 HI (w/new contact pads) is noticeably dimmer than the min mode of my SC600 HI MkIV which was bought over 3 yrs ago. The second highest LOWEST mode of the 64 HI is actually about the same as the lowest on the SC600 HI.

Agreed x100! I feel pretty much the opposite as the seemingly huge number of people that don’t like the looks of ZL lights. They look and feel like something honed down for pure performance and utility but still with some… panache for lack of a word that doesn’t make me sound like I sniff my own farts.

Dear all,

I am new to this forum, but since a few weeks I am closely following your discussions here at BLF and your measurements about tint, CRI etc. of the various flashlights.

I am interested in flashlights with good color reproduction. I see how difficult it is to find lights with LEDs providing high CRI and high R9-R14 values and pleasant beam tint. The manufacturers are somewhat vage providing details of the LEDs they are using, so its a trial and error game. I admit, I am more a collector than a user, but buying flashlights which I finally don’t like is not much fun.

I just ordered a SC64c LE from NKON last week. It should arrive on Monday, hopefully with the correct LED mounted. I have a H503c purchased in April this year which might have the CRI70 LH351D emitter. I like the small H503c, but I wasn’t overly convinced about the color reproduction (and the greenish color at the boundary). As soon as I have the SC64c LE I will compare the two emitters and let you know.

I would be interested to measure the output of my lights (CCT, R1-R14, everything that is so nicely plotted in your postings). I understand that for any quantitative assessment I would need a spectrophotometer. A Seconic C-7000 or Gossen Mavospec will do, but are there cheaper alternatives? Maukka seems to use a X-Rite i1 Studio, right? That would be much more affordable (and I could use it to calibrate my monitor for digital image processing). What kind of additional equipment would be needed (integrating sphere, filters, software)? Any suggestion is appreciated!!

Best regards

Peter

Welcome to BLF Peter.

Maukka uses a X-rite i1Pro, I have a i1 studio and that also works, they have the same capabilities regarding spectrum power distribution acquisition.
The i1pro can be used with Babelcolor CT&A (paid) to display the chromacity, CRI, TM-30, with nice reports (see Maukka’s threads)
Both can be used with Argyll CMS (free, command line tool) which also displays this info, though not nice reports, but the spectrum data can be loaded into Osram Color Calculator (free) which displays all kind of info and can make nice TM-30 reports like this .
Alternatively there is a paid Argyll pro Android app which is well, more mobile than a PC. The issue with it is that you can’t export the SPD data, Contactcr uses it .

Nkon received a new batch recently, so your SC64 should be good and you’ll be able to compare the color of the phosphors with your H503c.

Thanks for stopping by, peter_b!

My new SC64c HI seems slightly dimmer than my SC64c LE from early 2020 in the lowest output. I don’t have an older HI to compare with.

Hello thefreeman,

many thanks for your quick answer and the nice welcome.

I think I might need additional information before spending money for any of the spectrometers. So if you use X-Rite i1 Studio, you are just shining the flashlight light into the sensor opening?? Brightness levels are ok.? Is the X-Rite software already able to show basic parameters as CCT, Ra, Re, or is this Argyll software (or the Osram color calculator) needed for this? As far as I understand, any nice summary plot like your TM-30 example or those in maukka’s threads would require more elaborate software, right?

Have a nice evening!

Peter

Yes.

If the sensor gets saturated you shine it from farther, with throwers at max output that can be impractical though.
(The sensor used is the ambiant one, not the one for measuring screens).

The x-rite software can’t as far as I know (never installed it).
So yes you need Argyll CMS (or the pro app which is plug and play), I run the spotread command and it gives me the result like in this comment , it can display the spectra too and some other stuff , I can choose to save the SPD data and then open it in color calculator.
You can install it and play with it beforehand if you want, here is an Argyll SPD text file , copy that in a text file and rename it with a .sp extention, then in color calculator go to user spectra, import Argyll format.

Color Calculator, or for Maukka’s reports babelcolor ct&a, but it’s not compatible with the i1 studio.

Curious. I actually like the moonlight mode on my SC64c LE. It’s not the absolute lowest I own (Niwalker ET2 v2, super low moon). I wonder if this change also affected the SC64c LE?

Yeah, it’s a “love it or hate it” kind of thing for a lot of folks. They are unusual, but like you say, in a way that’s focused on utility. I bought an H52F specifically for its looks. Easy to pick out in a lineup:

Rather weak output with an AA, but wow… popped a 14500 in there and lumens nearly doubled.

If you’re looking for a standalone unit with its own display (similar to the Sekonic C-7000), I use a Hopoocolor OHSP350C. It’s the most inexpensive but fully featured unit I’ve found.

The only thing it doesn’t do is give you TM-30 measurements on the device, but you can easily generate TM-30 reports by importing the spectral data into Color Calculator to create those nice graphics you’re talking about.

When taking measurements, I place the light on a tripod and hold the sensor of the spectrometer directly in the center of the hotspot in a very dark room away from walls or objects so ambient or reflected light does not interfere with the measurement.

How do you know this?

It seems weird and I'm curious.

The older SC62 had a buck-boost driver which was always a solid selling-point compared to most other compact 1000lm lights if one likes to use high-mode.

By identifying the regulator, it’s that one : https://www.ti.com/lit/gpn/TLV62085

Just a small note, the green ring at the edge of the H503c’s beam is due to the GITD surface around the LED rather than tint shift from the emitter intself.

Today I received a SC64c LE from NKON, ordered just a few days ago. It definitely has a high CRI emitter mounted, color reproduction looks similar to other high CRI lights (Zebralight H600Fc, Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia 144AR, Acebeam H40 with SST-20). But my H503c which I ordered from NKON in April this year seems to have a much less vivid color rendition. So maybe it also has a low CRI emitter mounted like in some of your units. Comparison of the phosphor color is not so easy between those two very different headlights, at least for my naked, untrained eye… I contacted NKON what to do about it (exchange under warranty?).

The SC64c LE has the modified anode contact (6 small contact points).

Thanks for providing this information. I have to study the pros and cons of having a dedicated display in the measurement device vs. instruments like the X-Rite i1 Pro. I also haven’t found a distributor for the Hopoocolor OHSP350C for Germany/EU. German customs adds about 25% fee on items coming directly from China… :frowning:

I received a LE from Nkon :

CCT = 4147K (Duv 0.0032)
(Ra) = 91.3 [ R9 = 70.9 ]

Not too bad :wink: How do you like it??

Was going to say, don’t post this thread over at reddit, or the hiveminds will lose their minds.

@ peter_b

Have you considered the Opple Light-master-III. It is much cheaper (around 40 €) compared to something like the X-Rite. It is of course most likely not as good as a professional solution, but it seems decent enough for hobby usage. There is a wohle thread about the Opple over at TLF > Link.