Zebralight SC64c LE with LH351D NOT high CRI

My new SC64c HI seems slightly dimmer than my SC64c LE from early 2020 in the lowest output. I don’t have an older HI to compare with.

Hello thefreeman,

many thanks for your quick answer and the nice welcome.

I think I might need additional information before spending money for any of the spectrometers. So if you use X-Rite i1 Studio, you are just shining the flashlight light into the sensor opening?? Brightness levels are ok.? Is the X-Rite software already able to show basic parameters as CCT, Ra, Re, or is this Argyll software (or the Osram color calculator) needed for this? As far as I understand, any nice summary plot like your TM-30 example or those in maukka’s threads would require more elaborate software, right?

Have a nice evening!

Peter

Yes.

If the sensor gets saturated you shine it from farther, with throwers at max output that can be impractical though.
(The sensor used is the ambiant one, not the one for measuring screens).

The x-rite software can’t as far as I know (never installed it).
So yes you need Argyll CMS (or the pro app which is plug and play), I run the spotread command and it gives me the result like in this comment , it can display the spectra too and some other stuff , I can choose to save the SPD data and then open it in color calculator.
You can install it and play with it beforehand if you want, here is an Argyll SPD text file , copy that in a text file and rename it with a .sp extention, then in color calculator go to user spectra, import Argyll format.

Color Calculator, or for Maukka’s reports babelcolor ct&a, but it’s not compatible with the i1 studio.

Curious. I actually like the moonlight mode on my SC64c LE. It’s not the absolute lowest I own (Niwalker ET2 v2, super low moon). I wonder if this change also affected the SC64c LE?

Yeah, it’s a “love it or hate it” kind of thing for a lot of folks. They are unusual, but like you say, in a way that’s focused on utility. I bought an H52F specifically for its looks. Easy to pick out in a lineup:

Rather weak output with an AA, but wow… popped a 14500 in there and lumens nearly doubled.

If you’re looking for a standalone unit with its own display (similar to the Sekonic C-7000), I use a Hopoocolor OHSP350C. It’s the most inexpensive but fully featured unit I’ve found.

The only thing it doesn’t do is give you TM-30 measurements on the device, but you can easily generate TM-30 reports by importing the spectral data into Color Calculator to create those nice graphics you’re talking about.

When taking measurements, I place the light on a tripod and hold the sensor of the spectrometer directly in the center of the hotspot in a very dark room away from walls or objects so ambient or reflected light does not interfere with the measurement.

How do you know this?

It seems weird and I'm curious.

The older SC62 had a buck-boost driver which was always a solid selling-point compared to most other compact 1000lm lights if one likes to use high-mode.

By identifying the regulator, it’s that one : https://www.ti.com/lit/gpn/TLV62085

Just a small note, the green ring at the edge of the H503c’s beam is due to the GITD surface around the LED rather than tint shift from the emitter intself.

Today I received a SC64c LE from NKON, ordered just a few days ago. It definitely has a high CRI emitter mounted, color reproduction looks similar to other high CRI lights (Zebralight H600Fc, Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia 144AR, Acebeam H40 with SST-20). But my H503c which I ordered from NKON in April this year seems to have a much less vivid color rendition. So maybe it also has a low CRI emitter mounted like in some of your units. Comparison of the phosphor color is not so easy between those two very different headlights, at least for my naked, untrained eye… I contacted NKON what to do about it (exchange under warranty?).

The SC64c LE has the modified anode contact (6 small contact points).

Thanks for providing this information. I have to study the pros and cons of having a dedicated display in the measurement device vs. instruments like the X-Rite i1 Pro. I also haven’t found a distributor for the Hopoocolor OHSP350C for Germany/EU. German customs adds about 25% fee on items coming directly from China… :frowning:

I received a LE from Nkon :

CCT = 4147K (Duv 0.0032)
(Ra) = 91.3 [ R9 = 70.9 ]

Not too bad :wink: How do you like it??

Was going to say, don’t post this thread over at reddit, or the hiveminds will lose their minds.

@ peter_b

Have you considered the Opple Light-master-III. It is much cheaper (around 40 €) compared to something like the X-Rite. It is of course most likely not as good as a professional solution, but it seems decent enough for hobby usage. There is a wohle thread about the Opple over at TLF > Link.

thanks for making me aware of that option
Im interested in buying one in USA
anybody have a link?

I found a link in Europe, but shipping is $50

I finally received my replacement SC64c LE and H503c from Zebralight.

They didn’t include a note or anything, just two brand new lights in their original packaging.

I’ve verified that both lights have the correct high CRI LH351D. The SC64c LE has the new style battery cathode contact.

I also noticed there’s some schmoo on one side of the H503’s emitter. It’s probably some excess thermal paste or potting compound. It’s probably not an issue since this is a AA light and the emitter won’t run high enough power to burn the dome. It’s a mule so it won’t affect the beam either.



Sounds like their QC is slacking.

Thanks for your suggestion and the link. The little Opple Light Master G3 unfortunately doesn’t measure R9…

I found an upgraded version called ‘Opple Light Master Pro’ (hardware, not the app!). This gadget received the IF Design Award 2020 for good design, see https://ifworlddesignguide.com/entry/282367-lightmaster-pro

I can’t find any retailer selling this improved version yet. Here is a picture from the IF World Design Guidewebsite showing the measured data (incl. R9!):

I finally got access to a C-7000 SpectroMaster. I measured the SC64c LE that I received from NKON few days ago, and my H503c from April this year (also NKON).

SC64c LE looks good (CCT=4057K, Duv=0.0034, Ra=93.5, R9=76.0), my H503c definitely has a low CRI Samsung LED (CCT=4227K, Duv=-0.0067, Ra=74.2, R9=-28.2)

This is very strange because If it isn’t able to measure R9 then it shouldn’t be able to measure CRI at all.