If you’re looking for a standalone unit with its own display (similar to the Sekonic C-7000), I use a Hopoocolor OHSP350C. It’s the most inexpensive but fully featured unit I’ve found.
The only thing it doesn’t do is give you TM-30 measurements on the device, but you can easily generate TM-30 reports by importing the spectral data into Color Calculator to create those nice graphics you’re talking about.
When taking measurements, I place the light on a tripod and hold the sensor of the spectrometer directly in the center of the hotspot in a very dark room away from walls or objects so ambient or reflected light does not interfere with the measurement.
The older SC62 had a buck-boost driver which was always a solid selling-point compared to most other compact 1000lm lights if one likes to use high-mode.
Just a small note, the green ring at the edge of the H503c’s beam is due to the GITD surface around the LED rather than tint shift from the emitter intself.
Today I received a SC64c LE from NKON, ordered just a few days ago. It definitely has a high CRI emitter mounted, color reproduction looks similar to other high CRI lights (Zebralight H600Fc, Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia 144AR, Acebeam H40 with SST-20). But my H503c which I ordered from NKON in April this year seems to have a much less vivid color rendition. So maybe it also has a low CRI emitter mounted like in some of your units. Comparison of the phosphor color is not so easy between those two very different headlights, at least for my naked, untrained eye… I contacted NKON what to do about it (exchange under warranty?).
The SC64c LE has the modified anode contact (6 small contact points).
Thanks for providing this information. I have to study the pros and cons of having a dedicated display in the measurement device vs. instruments like the X-Rite i1 Pro. I also haven’t found a distributor for the Hopoocolor OHSP350C for Germany/EU. German customs adds about 25% fee on items coming directly from China…
Have you considered the Opple Light-master-III. It is much cheaper (around 40 €) compared to something like the X-Rite. It is of course most likely not as good as a professional solution, but it seems decent enough for hobby usage. There is a wohle thread about the Opple over at TLF > Link.
I finally received my replacement SC64c LE and H503c from Zebralight.
They didn’t include a note or anything, just two brand new lights in their original packaging.
I’ve verified that both lights have the correct high CRI LH351D. The SC64c LE has the new style battery cathode contact.
I also noticed there’s some schmoo on one side of the H503’s emitter. It’s probably some excess thermal paste or potting compound. It’s probably not an issue since this is a AA light and the emitter won’t run high enough power to burn the dome. It’s a mule so it won’t affect the beam either.
I can’t find any retailer selling this improved version yet. Here is a picture from the IF World Design Guidewebsite showing the measured data (incl. R9!):
I finally got access to a C-7000 SpectroMaster. I measured the SC64c LE that I received from NKON few days ago, and my H503c from April this year (also NKON).
SC64c LE looks good (CCT=4057K, Duv=0.0034, Ra=93.5, R9=76.0), my H503c definitely has a low CRI Samsung LED (CCT=4227K, Duv=-0.0067, Ra=74.2, R9=-28.2)
You are located in the U.S., did you send your lights to Zebralight USA or to China? I will first try to solve things through NKON as their European dealers, otherwise I might have to pay again customs and import fees for the replacement…
It’s not that it can’t measure R9, the app is just extremely limited in what data it displays because the manufacturer intended to sell a more fully featured version for a higher price. You get lux, CCT, CRI Ra, CIE coordinates and uv, as well as a postage stamp CIE 1931 chart. It doesn’t show R9 or Duv (which you can obviously calculate). Also based on results posted on TLF the lux and CCT measurement is fairly inaccurate for warmer CCTs. There isn’t a comparison of measured Duv with a known good device. I would say it’s ok for telling whether you have a CRI 70, 80, or 90 light as well as approximating the CCT above 3500-4000K. If it can give a reasonable approximation of Duv too it’s probably a useful device for the money, though not that great.
How do you like it??
