Cemoi, thanks for the write up. Useful information for sure.
Personally, I find the stock beam nearly flawless and very pleasing. May I ask you what issues you saw?
See this post in another thread, and posts #55 thru 58.
But as said earlier it is only visible at short range (1' from a white wall), by picky flashaholics like me 
Different LEDs I guess.
E3A is using the Samsung, E2A the SST20.
Emitter efficiency is probably part of it. The E3A he tested was neutral white, but not high CRI. The E2A is 95 CRI. That should cost it around 30% efficiency.
It’s more than that, though. Zeroair’s graph for the E2A shows about 50 lumens/W on medium and 63 lumens/W on high.
His E3A graph works out to around 120 lumens/W.
Even considering the SST-20’s are not the most efficient emitter around, I would have expected them to be able to achieve over 80 lumens per W on high with a comparable driver. And a stepdown should not be needed at all on the E2A when running on AA batteries. It seems to use the same logic as with 14500 batteries.
I have an E2A and am happy with it - the size and hand feel are great, and the optic they use makes a superb beam profile in my opinion. It’s not the light to get if you need maximum output or runtime, though. It’s a good light that would be great if they improve the driver.
What color temps are the various versions available on Skilhunt’s Amazon page? They don’t even say if netural or cool white. I ordered the high-CRI version as I’m sure that won’t annoy me. But if there’s a significant color or lumens difference I might need a second one! Right?
Noice!
Wonder if HA2 or HA3…
Superb colors!
I especially like the dark green and dark blue, but having all of those choices is best for everyone. 
Ohhh no. Maybe we can get a special price on a pack with all colors included? 
Slate and black are HA3 I think, but don’t quote me. Everything else is level 2
I’ve ordered an orange one. It should arrive today or tomorrow. I’ll report how the color appears in reality.
LOL 
I said don’t quote me!
I stand corrected.
But you were mostly right. Still puzzled how to identify them.
According to the product description on Skilhunt's website, only the slate blue version is HAIII. This is why I always chose this color when ordering the ones I have.
Too bad they don't offer the new colors with the same anodization quality.
Just received an orange E3A. What should I say… Everything is the same as my old slate blue one. Same tint, same beam, same quality. The orange is great. Minimal brighter than the Sofirn orange, but otherwise very similar.
Here’s a quick comparison between the Sofirn C01 and the Skilhunt E3A, both in orange:
Very nice, thanks for the pic
Good thread everyone, and particularly thanks to gchart for the resistor change and the runtimes. Is there any chance of a runtime with the 1 ohm resistor (43 lm) and an alkaline? I think that is worth testing since part of the point of an AAA light is to run on alkalines if you have to. I wouldn’t go past 2 ohms (20-25 lm) since it doesn’t seem worth the hassle compared to using a $4 Sofirn C01 at that point.
I do like that the pill is easy to get out of the E3A and to reprogram (change 1 resistor). Does anyone think the non-potted pill will affect ruggedness and reliability? The Sofirn is potted, which seems like a plus for shock resistance but a minus for moddability.
To the person who asked why the converter isn’t more efficient: in principle it could be made that way, but it would have to either run at lower current, or use bigger parts. It wouldn’t surprise me if it does better at 100mA output than 200mA.