What did you mod today?

I’ve posted this before, but it appears you just need a small wood-carving knife to remove the retaining ring: What did you mod today?

Perhaps it works for some ZebraLights and not on others.

Maybe Bob_McBob would be willing to share his technique: Zebralight SC64c LE w/High CRI Nichia 219B R9080 $150

Emitter swap day…

C8+ SFT40 and PFlexpro micro textured lens, huge upgrade from XPL HI

BLF D80 also modded with SFT40, hotspot has a more defined edge than the C8+ but about 10% less throw. Didn’t change the focus height, looked nice enough with the stock centering ring.

L6 with GT FC40 mod kit, much better beam and tint than stock XHP70, but i wish I ordered a warmer tint instead. The 12V driver Draws 6.7A on high

Yet another attempt at modding a Zebralight. This time my SC52w.

I was able to get the bezel off. I used a hobbyist x-acto knife with a curved tip. With the tip underneath I was able to go around the edges slightly widening the opening. Once the opening was big enough I replaced the knife with my smallest screwdriver, then my next smallest, and then the screwdriver tip from a Victorinox mini. With that I was able to lever out the ring with no damage to the glass.

But now I’m stumped again…. the driver does not move no matter what I do.

  • I desoldered the two solder blobs to the switch.
  • I removed the 2 screws
  • I cut around the grey potting compound where the driver meets the head.

But no matter what I try the driver is stuff fast. Even inserting a rod into the back of the battery compartment and then hammering on the bottom of the driver with a pliers did not cause it to move even one mm.

I also tried using my hot air gun to attempt to reflow the LED while inside the light. As expected no luck. The heatsinking is quite good and easily wicked off the heat.

Anyone have any suggestions? I’m stumped. :confounded:

I hope my efforts haven’t killed the light.

I have read that someone soaked his light in acetone, but I don’t know the side effects on all the components.

Did you desolder the positive wire ?

That’s not going to do anything, there is a wall between the positive contact PCB and the driver, with a small hole for the wire.

Heating the head makes the silicone adhere less.

To properly pull on the driver I put slightly larger screws in the mounting hole (like ~2.3mm screws for plastic)

Whoops! No I didn’t realize that. None of the posts I looked at on how to disassemble the light mentioned that. :confounded: Or if they did I missed it.

Unfortunately, my misguided attempts to modify the light appears to have destroyed it. :weary:

I reassembled it, but now the light doesn’t work properly. It doesn’t turn off. Pressing the switch causes the light to turn off only while the button is held down. And while holding it down I can see it cycle through the modes, but the moment I release the button, the light goes back to max power.

I don’t think I’m going to attempt to modify a Zebralight ever again.

I can’t even take a close look at the driver to see if maybe something got shorted or dislodged, since I can’t remove the PCB.

EDIT:

I opened it up again to attempt to remove the positive wire. But how do I do that?

The tip of the wire passes through a hole below the left screw. The hole is completely filled with solder, which I can’t remove. My solder sucker isn’t long enough and doesn’t have enough suction. Also, even when I keep that solder liquid by keeping the tip of my iron in it, the driver still does not move at all when I insert a pick into the screw holes and try to pry it up.

I need more detailed instructions on how to remove an SC52 driver. The existing pictures on the internet are not sufficient.

I never opened a SC62, usually there is no solder in the plated through hole and the wire is soldered to a pad next to it, but in the case of the hole filled with solder ( e.g. in the SC700 there is no pad, instead of a wire it’s a solid pin soldered to the through hole) then you need to do as you did, pull on the driver while melting the solder, add a lower temp solder (ZL use lead free solder) so that it melts more easily.

And as I mentionned it’s easier to pull with screws to grab on :

You are welcome

Thanks for the kind words

You have also my attention :beer:

Allways interesting builds :+1:

Regards Xandre

I agree that SFT40 and D80 are good match. The reflector and green coated glass make the beam look better than from other hosts.

First time dealing with 4xE21A. They’re too tricky for me. Using Convoy S15 (4500K) and Non-branded S2+ (4000K) as hosts.

- Reamed Convoy’s 4040 gasket

- 4x26awg (same length) each

- Non-AR glass & “Sandblast 215” sticker

- OP Reflector

  • Convoy 4 modes driver (tested 5.2A max)

Dunno what lumen loss I get. Lol

congrats on your mod, and thanks for the great photos

you might have better luck blending the dark center with a pebble tir, than with that dc fix…


Last night I “modded” the dome light in my subaru. I removed a 13w incandescent, and installed a 5W LED… Lumens tripled, and power use went down 60%

But the spectrum quality of the LED light is disgusting, so I went back to incandescent.

stock:
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Warm White LED:
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I choose quality over quantity.

I’m very much considering modding a Streamlight pistol light:

Anyone modded one of these? I’ll measure the spectrum and lumens soon and decide what to do but I may just leave it to retain warranty.

Thanks jon_slider , I’m sorry if the photos is too much :slight_smile: . Yeah, but I still don’t know what Pebble TIR that would fitted well. Also, what degrees would be match between throw and flood? I don’t have any experience with Pebble TIR before, any idea? :smiley:

WARNING:
What you’re about to see is pure bastardization and flashlight modding blasphemy :smiling_imp:

First there was this :sunglasses:
(well, it misses a triple DTP MCPCB with Nichia 219c 5000K 70CRI and a triple TIR optic :zipper_mouth_face: You can find them here :D)

Then, there was this :neutral_face:

And in the end…there was this :blush:

I’ll tell you what I did! I did what could be considered a “bastardized” FW1AA!
Why bastardized? Because it doesn’t have Anduril :stuck_out_tongue: It could have it, but… it wouldn’t be the same :smiley:

So, what does it have?

  • bezel, head, the screw on the shelf, driver retaining ring, tube, tail, and inner o-rings from the FWAA
  • TIR optic from a deceased Olight S1R Baton
  • DTP MCPCB from a the Eagle Eye X3R (not filing or grinding needed, fits perfectly :laughing: )
  • Samsung LH351D
  • 3535 gasket in buttefly shape (wings were cut :smiling_imp: )
  • “blue aqua” GITD tape
  • the driver is a 17mm DrJones H17Fx Driver w/ lucidrv2 - 7135 + FET
  • reverse clicky switch with a slightly larger PCB (not from Convoy)
  • transparent 18mm rubber button with the inner “tongue” shaved and placed in reverse position :nerd_face:
  • outside white/transparent o-rings from the Jaxman E3

CONS from this mod?

  • well, it is taller than the FWAA and even the DQG Slim Ti AA, and there are some “gaps” that I tried to cover with the white o-rings :innocent:

- the switch is not stuck in place, it is pressed by the tube, which is in reverse position for that purpose

- it does get HOT AS FOOK in higher levels, since there is no mass to absorb that heat

- I cannot fit a forward switch, for momentary modes, because it is too tall for that tail space :zipper_mouth_face:

PROS of this mod?

- It is just cool AF to have it and it will be even smaller than the real and upcoming FW1AA :stuck_out_tongue:

Details below! :stuck_out_tongue:

Thats cool as FWAA (except its a FWFX1 now), but…

the body is upside down… lol :innocent:

Ahah :smiley: Naming this will be a weird thing to do :wink:

As for the tube, yup, I needed to use it that way to secure the switch PCB, considering that the other end as a wider opening that doesn’t allow contact with the PCB. So I needed to do that.

The other option would be…using the tube of another flashlight, which is also possible :innocent:

I’ve had great luck with removing the donut holes in quad E17A LEDs by sanding down 1 side of the lenses to make them frosted. You can experiment with how much flood vs throw by using different sandpaper grit. But too high of grit (ie. less of a frosted lens) may still result in a slight donut hole. But at least you can control the final beam vs buying something to cover or replace the lens.

Thanks for the screw trick. With that I was finally able to remove the driver from the light.

Unfortunately, it took an enormous amount of force. The board bent slightly and some traces and parts ripped off.

I tried connecting the extracted driver to a battery and switch outside the light. It’s irretrievably dead.

Now I have to figure out what to do with the broken light. The anodizing, lens and switch are all in perfect condition. It would be a shame to just toss this. Some options:

  • I wonder if Zebralight would be willing to fix it. Or if they have an old SC52 driver they can send me. I guess I’ll try sending them an email. They’re pretty good about responding.
  • or perhaps I can use it as a host. It’s not great since the space inside the head is so small owing to the one-piece driver/star, but I could probably transplant the guts from an FWAA into it.

EDIT: Quick response from Zebralight. They can’t repair it as they have no SC52 boards in inventory. I guess this light is now a host for me to try to put something else inside.

I guess in attempting to mod this I probably should have started with one of my defective non-functional Zebralights rather than one that was working perfectly.

That’s to bad firelight. Makes me scared for modding my sc64.

I just finished a Convoy 4 x 18 mod with a 86mm reflector upgrade. HERE
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