Emisar D3AA is available now

Hank, would you consider offering the SFT-40 in the KR1? Would be a great LED for that light.

i can attest to this, please do Hank. I have a modded KR1 with the sft40 and it is by far the best led of any KR1 setup I have owned (sst40, w2, W1, green W1, green w2, sst20, xpl-hi).

Didn’t you say it was only available in 6500K ?

The SFT-40 LED is still not available for now right?

Several manufacturers have been producing lights with SFT-40 for some time now…

According to my information it should become available again by September 2021. How do you think about the other LED suggestions, Hank?

I have asked several times already but I try once more. :D SFT-40 is not listed below because it is being recommended already.

  • Nichia E21A 1800K R9080 or R9050...this is as close to real candlelight as it gets
  • Samsung LH351D (2700K - 6500K, 70CRI - 90CRI)...whereas 90CRI will most likely be favored by most people
  • Cree XP-L2 4000K - 5000K...yes, it has horrible tintshift but it's still one of the most efficient emitters and underneath a frosted 10623 or 10624 the artifacts should disappear. Maybe it's worth trying out?
  • Cree XHP50.3 HI 3V...once it becomes available
  • Cree XP-P...a good opponent to Osram's KW CSLNM1.TG but hopefully available in warmer tints (< 6000K)
  • Getian FC40 12V (3200K - 4500K, HighCRI)

he is offering some of the lh351d as far as what I have seen on Reddit. I have seen 5000k and 5700k

yes

What do you guys think of the e GT-FC40 A4 bin 4500k or C3 bin 4000k?

Has anyone measured the colour output of the sw35 219B Hank is using? I couldn’t find anything other than measurements from a slightly sketchy phone app and I’d like to know how rosy they are.

Not measured but it’s disappoitingly greenish compared to e21a 3500 K

For what it’s worth I can confirm. Appears greenish to the eye o meter.

Did the same compare : yep green a little in lower modes, not far from the sst-20 2700-4000 mix but nothing like the really green xpl-hi 8d .

I am installing A4 in every possible host i can find...

Are these tint comparisons done with the AR coated lens installed?

How can they not be ?

One example could be comparing a reflector and AR lens vs a TIR only setup

I measured my D4v2 219b sw35 (fully assembled with AR coated glass installed)

CCT: 3590K | CRI: 96 | R9: 90 | Duv: 0.001

My KR4 with E21A 3500K is around Duv –0.0026 (also with AR glass installed). I’ll look it up when I get home from work and post TM-30 reports for both.

*Edit
Corrected E21A info

That make sense, only slightly rosy and only slightly greeny .

I have 219c 4500k in my d4v2 and don’t see any green or pink. I find myself wanting warmer CCT and might try for 3500K next time. What I really want is exact duplication of the original Nichia 083. Does anyone know what CCT that had? Maybe purists would complain of a yellow cast, but for me, that light was so beautiful I can never forget it.

I have another light (Fenix BC21R) with USB charging and I find it handy, and I know there are now some 18650s (really about 70mm long) that have their own charge port and can deliver high current, so I’ve been wanting an 18700 tube to accommodate them. That was also to be able to interchange batteries with the Fenix. But now find the Fenix works ok on unprotected flat tops, and the Fenix-branded battery that I have is low current, so the 18700 tube becomes less important in both directions.

I looked at the K1 charge port on the web site but don’t understand how it works. As for rubber seals etc., I guess I’d want to know how the most rugged lights (caving, military etc.) deal with this question. Maybe they also only support external charging.

I’m here mostly from the software side of things so Emisar/Noctilux are the only brand of this style of 18650 pushbutton light that I’m willing to buy right now, because of the relative ease of reflashing. The main thing I hope for in a future version is some kind of computer communication, instead of configuring the light by clicking something 15 times. The new generation AVR’s (t1616 etc.) also are easier to reflash, so maybe the next generation of lights will use them.