Maglite 2x D cell DL serial D2G-2 LED Emitter unit

Wellp, that should be about 2W into the LED, and there doesn’t look like all that much heatsinking in that module, so I’d be hesitant to go higher.

If the case (minus the old driver) could fit a ~17mm circle in there, you’re good to go.

https://www.fasttech.com/product/1127402-1-2-aa-aaa-1-mode-800ma-linear-booster-led

2bux and change.

Should still be 200-300lm (100-150lm/W), depending how efficient the LED. Nothing to sneeze at.

What caused the lights to stop working?

I do not know…I actually took it on trust from the bloke that said they did not work that they did not.

I’l rig up a 3volt supply later to test then modules out. Should have done ti before really …but wanted to get them apart.

Switch module is different . I will get a few more picture later.

Yes true , no heats sinking. will get measurements …I probably have an order going in some times soon from Mountain electronics, so I am sure he will have similar to the fast tech one…

Best I have on the phone for now


I initially did check the magnate website but could not find any suitable search box that searched Serial numbers for support…but I was on the old iPhone 5…small screen etc…

I do see the generic search box, which does not bring up any useful info.

Under support the only option I can find to enter the Serial number is the Register Your Product ’ page.

I left the lamps at the farm, so will need to go back to get the Serials…which is why I did nto post them in the original post…sorry…my bad…

I am just back from 4 week holiday in France…so chaos here as I get unpacked and sort my life out, getting back to normal…and the buggers that pay my salary expect more than just my bank details…they sort of expect me to turn up and do stuff for them too…so going to be tied up with that too :frowning:

Big stars to the man that asked the best question …too obvious s…but the perfect solution…the answer was …….

No batteries :smiley:

I never bothered to shcek1 I took it on trust they did nto work !

Once I had the ‘drop-in’ open, I tested the LED…It worked.

So I reassembled and jsut pressed the unit up against a battery with a jumper lead…worked perfectly …

Re assembled and put in some e fresh D-Cells…

Worked perfectly !

doh!

I never even checked.

Typical poor MagLite output though , even the LED ones have the ruddy horrid Mag Lite ‘pattern’

For completeness, though, here are the serials

DL200121996 Allen key mounting of switch unit and switch ‘zoom’ mover
DL202097078 Torx heads not allen key.

I’ll show a few more pics too …

Driver PCB 9.8mm x 12.5mm

Thanks for following up with the pictures, that helps to see how it was assembled.

The two clips in the bottom black plastic piece—they both connect to the Positive terminal of the battery thru the switch?

And for the 4 clips at the top beneath the emitter, the center 2 apply power to the emitter and the outer 2 are connected to the steel case for the return path to the Negative of the battery?

You wouldn’t happen to have written down the marking codes on the two chips?

Your assumptions about the clips are correct, yes

Those are the best pics I took of the chips, so they are the only way to read what the markings are.
They were hand held pics from the iPhone though, cropped in.

If I break out the Canon 5D3, a tripod and macro lens I will try and get some better shots… time here is 2134, and I am off to bed. Depending on work tomorrow I’ll try and get better pics, to see if we can read the chip markings

Here you go

Apologies if the size is too big…haveing to rush…work just called…got a baby transfer to do …I fly air ambo/ medivac….

Thanks for the pixs! These light are usually pretty dependable - it would have been strange for 2 of them to stop working like that.

Are the PCB’s and LEDs the same? I’m guessing that the lower serial is a luxeon rebel and the higher numbered one either a rebel or a XP-G?

I am afraid I could not get the second one apart, and once I realised it was actually still working too, I stopped trying to prise/in crimp the plastic base unit

I did get the two emitters mixed up, so not sure now which came from which

I know the earlier serial has the Allen Key fixing, and the later is the Torx, but got the emitter units mixed up.

I think I managed to find/ reproduce the fault that my mate had with them, which is why he thought they had died… End cap corrosion, simple as that. You’d think by now I’d have learnt to look for the simple things first… I was just too keen to see inside the LED drop-in’s !

I’ll get some macro pics of the emitters for you tomorrow, but don’t think I can get the other unit open without damage to it, or me stabbing myself with a prying tool !

corrosion on the end of the barrel/end cap can do that, these areas should be kept clean and lubed. if they do get corroded, the can be cleaned up with some fine steel wool or fine sand paper on a sanding block.

Thanks for the pictures.

The big square VSON-10-pin chip looks to be a TPS61200, a switching dc-boost converter that can supply 300mA 3.3V up to 600 mA5V from 2 D cells. Don’t know what your voltage setting is since the resistors have no value marks.

The SOT23-5-pin chip marked “AA0D” wasn’t coming up from any search, but appears to be an op amp, assuming that the board is multi-layer with internal traces to connect some of the lonesome vias. Pins 3 and 4 are measuring the current from the voltage across the 0.1 Ohm sense resistor marked “01Z”. Pretty clever for 2008 technology.

Yes, multi layer.
What is the big white device marked 152D ?

Inductor, for the step-up conversion.

1.500µH, likely.

An inductor coil, 1.5 microHenry, LPS3010 from Coilcraft.

Seems both are the same emitter

Sorry about the focus , best I could do without getting involved with camera s lighting etc…

I did not measure the current between the driver board and the LED…

I did a very cursory current test with two AA cells, rolling on the table, pressing the central terminal to the battery positive, and a basic DVM in 5 amp mode doing the negative side.

Very strange results

with ammeter set at 2000mA range it gave a figure of 1500mA…, yet turn it down to the next range …200mA and it showed 15mA…
It was different reading between the ranges yet brightness was the same

Older Luxeon Rebels…

Would be a straight forward enough job to turn down a solid brass ‘pill’ the same to make a mount for conventional emitter MCPCB’s … what is the smallest? 17mm is too big … probably need 12 I think…

Ok no airflow or conduction to outside world… but a block of brass would give a bit of heat sinking.