Looks interesting. I don’t see any reason why Anduril 2’s tint ramping functionality (like in the LT1) wouldn’t work. You can’t use the LT1 hex file though, if for no other reason than it having temperature regulation disabled. I would think we’d also want to disable to automatic tint ramping feature; not that it would hurt anything it just doesn’t make sense to me for flood/throw ramping.
The SST20 flood portion should be available in 2700k/4000k mix to remove green at low levels. I’d prefer osram culnm1.tg in the middle for maximum throw.
Please be sure to include a flat top adapter like convoy 4x18a.
Agreed on high cri warmer tints, I would prefer Xhp35 in the center. It is still superior to the sft in my opinion.
Thank you Lee Terry please keep us informed
Very interested in this light!
Definitely use Anduril 2. The simple UI is just as easy as HD20’S ui, but the advanced UI allows enthusiasts to customize. There’s no excuse not to use Anduril 2 here.
I think the SFT40 & SST20 mix is perfect. Please make sure to have 4000K as an option for the SST20’s, preferably a good bin with neutral or negative DUV please!
I would love for this to use 4x18650 cells instead of 3x21700 cells because I have other lights that already use 4x18650’s. Perhaps an alternate body tube could be an option?
Regardless of battery type, please include a flag top battery adapter like Convoy does on the 4X18A and 3X21A so we can use the batteries we may already have if we want to.
Finally, please include a tripod hole on the tail like the BLF LT1 to allow the light to be hung upside down or to ceilingbounce on a tripod. Some magnets in the tailcap would be cool too.
Thank you for taking feedback! I’m very excited about this light!
Ehh, I don’t have any problems with the XHP35 but that’s a 12-volt only LED which would mean a boost driver. Not that Wurkkos couldn’t do that, but it would complicate things for sure. For me, I don’t see any problems in using the SFT40 (or an Osram).
I just read this on Reddit, and this is my post for thoughts.
This is exciting! I love the design! Here are my thoughts:
- great layout using sst20 & sft40. Please offer sst20 in Hi Cri, 2700k option too!
- my vote is 3 x 21700
- Consider - two mcpcbs. (1) mcpcb for the single center emitter and a Second mcpcb for the 12 outside emitters (gives buyers options for modding the inside emitter to different footprint 3V LEDS - osram, sbt90, etc.)
- Anduril 2 or Narsil UI only (narsil is a great UI for high power lights that do not "require" all of the extras that edc lights have like auxiliary LED controls, and narsil still have battery check which is VITAL)
- Needs a 1/4 x 20 threaded hole
- please include HANDLE in box
- please consider RETAINING RING for driver not glued in.
- back lit button
- consider COLORS- even if just DARK GRAY or SAND / TAN
very excited to see this light come to fruition, if it's a beast, I'll defintely buy more than one! Modding capabilities would be AWESOME.
agreed, for as much as I like the xhp35 HI 4000k (one of my favorite emitters), the sft40 is equally as impressive. And I would rather have the added numerous options of 3 volt emitters for that center led. Xhp35 and gt fc40 are the only 12v emitters I can think of that are worth using.
I agree with ArtieT59 :
- 3 x 21700 >> then 4 x 18650 (and offer yours 21700 rechargeable battery 5000mAh 3C 15A in bundle to this light)
- sst20 in Hi Cri + sft40 is good (4000k tint for sst20 should be more universal, but well we have spare power, and 2 x 6 2700/4000K can still be bright by themselves)
- Anduril 2
- a 1/4 x 20 threaded hole on both sides, so you can mount handle to it, and have switch face to you (right-handed / left-handed). I see something on one side, but don't know if it's it.
- please include HANDLE in box, or atleast to buy separately.
- deeper fins needed, ass always on this type of light (i want to mount it on handle, and use on HIGH for long)
- TYPE C charging and discharging (YES 3A, or PD, it's 3 x 21700)
- backlit button, and use your normal rubber switch, no plastic as in TS21.
For the Beam distance ramp, if you go for it, make sure it's not 100% fold - 0% throw, to 50% fold - 50% throw, to 0% fold - 100% throw, by one 1H.
But just adjusting the brightness for fold and throw separately by 1H, 2C for changing between changing fold and throw brightness distribution.
Here I was thinking that there are no good and fun tin can flashlights, and you just make me want to buy one.
Ps. I want to see somebody mounting MATEMINCO fan handle to it 
Having a tripod hole and the button on the same side so that you can use the the button while holding the handle with the same hand is a great idea.
if we go that far, can we just have a repeat button on the handle? and hole to mount handle on the side? But that would drive the cost higher, so it probably would be sold separately.
I would love for there to be like a pass-through button on the handle. Including the handle and this design would probably cost too much, but selling it separately would be cool. It could just be a plunger that sits over the existing switch so when you press the plunger it presses the switch.
Anduril tint ramping should work, but it should be modified so that in the middle it actually powers both channels at 100%, which should be possible by configuring TINT_RAMPING_CORRECTION properly. Or at least it should reach nearly 100% on both channels. In my opinion it also should stop at the "middle" (where both channels are fully on) and do a short "blip", then continue ramping the other channel down. I see a potential issue with the tint ramping feature as it ramps linearly between the two channels, which is what you want for tint, but maybe not for flood/throw. Can't think of an easy way to make it more logarithmic either for now. Also with tint ramping it doesn't allow for multiple power channels per "tint" channel, so it's not all that easy. Tint ramping also only works with 8 bit resolution I believe, which makes the single channel issue even worse (though I did modify the code before to run tint ramping with 16 bit for my custom LT1 firmware wich fakes higher resolution). Question is, should the driver design follow the firmware that's availabe, or should firmware be written/modified to follow a chosen driver design...
I think for a light as different as this, it’s reasonable to expect to customize Anduril for it. I do believe the newer AVR processors (AVR-1) have higher resolution PWM than the old ones did, so that might help with the tint ramping. There was also an interesting mod that tterev3 did, using leds of differing color temperatures independently controlled, to be able to adjust the overall mix coming out of a light. Tterev3 did amazing miniaturization to make that happen, but in a light this size it would be a lot easier.
It seems to me, barring complete insanity, people aren’t really going to care what this light costs. So there’s no reason to leave out anything that makes the light better, just to save a few cents or dollars here or there. Build it and they will come. I’d even consider a heat pipe cooling system like on graphics cards, since people are so interested in long runtime on turbo. For this big a light, a carrying handle does seem like a good idea, and it could have a radiator and fan connected to the heat pipe.
That said, I myself have never wanted super bright bursts for more than a few seconds at a time. But I’m not really the market for monster lights like this.
Agree.
Agree too.
Thanks for the idea, but will not consider at the moment.
I love wurkkos lights and really want this one to happen, so here’s my 0.02c
There are tons of 10k+ lumens soda can lights out there, what you need here is a larger head with deeper fins for high sustained output. I would like to see ~2,500lm and at least 150kcd sustained. I have the M43 and Olight X7R and they’re useless for outdoors because after stepping down there is zero useful range. My L6 in the other hand, works amazing outdoors.
The area right below the surrounding flood reflectors, use them to accommodate deeper fins.
I would use an middle optic instead of a reflector to maximize throw like the one found in acebeam L18/L19. There’s no need for spill when you have the floody emitters.
If can’t be individually controlled, output should ramp/step like this:
SFT40 throw: 1….50….100……100
SST20 flood: 1….25….50………100
Why? Because it makes zero sense to keep sending power to the flood emitters instead of the main SFT40 above ~5,000lm, where your eyes will automatically adjust to the surroundings rendering the SFT40 throw useless. 5,000lm flood because that’s what I personally feel to be sufficient for ANY close-mid range outdoor task.
If possible, add another tripod mount above/below the side switch, this way you could use a handle and operate the light at the same time. Doesn’t have to screw in 1/2” deep, 1/4”–20 thread is quite strong.
Tint ramping has its niche and it’s fun to play with in an compact edc light or lantern, but I don’t think it’s relevant here.
Not sure now, but we will see if our engineer can make it run both at the same time.
Thanks gchart for your comment. Do you mean just cancel the tint ramping part(in TS32 flood/throw ramping)? Is this just you or most BLF members? I am curious.