Anduril tint ramping should work, but it should be modified so that in the middle it actually powers both channels at 100%, which should be possible by configuring TINT_RAMPING_CORRECTION properly. Or at least it should reach nearly 100% on both channels. In my opinion it also should stop at the "middle" (where both channels are fully on) and do a short "blip", then continue ramping the other channel down. I see a potential issue with the tint ramping feature as it ramps linearly between the two channels, which is what you want for tint, but maybe not for flood/throw. Can't think of an easy way to make it more logarithmic either for now. Also with tint ramping it doesn't allow for multiple power channels per "tint" channel, so it's not all that easy. Tint ramping also only works with 8 bit resolution I believe, which makes the single channel issue even worse (though I did modify the code before to run tint ramping with 16 bit for my custom LT1 firmware wich fakes higher resolution). Question is, should the driver design follow the firmware that's availabe, or should firmware be written/modified to follow a chosen driver design...
I think for a light as different as this, it’s reasonable to expect to customize Anduril for it. I do believe the newer AVR processors (AVR-1) have higher resolution PWM than the old ones did, so that might help with the tint ramping. There was also an interesting mod that tterev3 did, using leds of differing color temperatures independently controlled, to be able to adjust the overall mix coming out of a light. Tterev3 did amazing miniaturization to make that happen, but in a light this size it would be a lot easier.
It seems to me, barring complete insanity, people aren’t really going to care what this light costs. So there’s no reason to leave out anything that makes the light better, just to save a few cents or dollars here or there. Build it and they will come. I’d even consider a heat pipe cooling system like on graphics cards, since people are so interested in long runtime on turbo. For this big a light, a carrying handle does seem like a good idea, and it could have a radiator and fan connected to the heat pipe.
That said, I myself have never wanted super bright bursts for more than a few seconds at a time. But I’m not really the market for monster lights like this.
Agree.
Agree too.
Thanks for the idea, but will not consider at the moment.
I love wurkkos lights and really want this one to happen, so here’s my 0.02c
There are tons of 10k+ lumens soda can lights out there, what you need here is a larger head with deeper fins for high sustained output. I would like to see ~2,500lm and at least 150kcd sustained. I have the M43 and Olight X7R and they’re useless for outdoors because after stepping down there is zero useful range. My L6 in the other hand, works amazing outdoors.
The area right below the surrounding flood reflectors, use them to accommodate deeper fins.
I would use an middle optic instead of a reflector to maximize throw like the one found in acebeam L18/L19. There’s no need for spill when you have the floody emitters.
If can’t be individually controlled, output should ramp/step like this:
SFT40 throw: 1….50….100……100
SST20 flood: 1….25….50………100
Why? Because it makes zero sense to keep sending power to the flood emitters instead of the main SFT40 above ~5,000lm, where your eyes will automatically adjust to the surroundings rendering the SFT40 throw useless. 5,000lm flood because that’s what I personally feel to be sufficient for ANY close-mid range outdoor task.
If possible, add another tripod mount above/below the side switch, this way you could use a handle and operate the light at the same time. Doesn’t have to screw in 1/2” deep, 1/4”–20 thread is quite strong.
Tint ramping has its niche and it’s fun to play with in an compact edc light or lantern, but I don’t think it’s relevant here.
Not sure now, but we will see if our engineer can make it run both at the same time.
Thanks gchart for your comment. Do you mean just cancel the tint ramping part(in TS32 flood/throw ramping)? Is this just you or most BLF members? I am curious.
Can you include a photo of there here? Thanks.
This light will use two mcpcbs for sure.
There is a tripot socket in the neck next to the switch, not sure if that is the mentioned 1/4 x20 treaded hole.
What is the back lit button you mean?
Handle is addable, looking to design one to sell seperately as accessory, so members here can choose to have or not to have according to their demand.
Thanks for your suggestions at the end.
What is GT FC40? Very curious.
Hi kokosnh, not sure if there is any conflict with Anduril II ui, but /adjusting the brightness for fold and throw separately by 1H, 2C for changing between changing fold and throw brightness distribution/ sounds great.
We have improved the fins already, the previous design with shallower fins, we will still look chance to improve it. Hopefully we can see it in the final product.
I would suggest something similar to Acebeam X45. 4 x XHP70.2, but with deeper reflector for better throw.
With USB charging port and removable handle.
Streamtronics, thanks for your comment, I will let you know, let our engineer do his work first.
Agree with you. Better make something great instead of piece of metal because of budget.
gt-fc40 is high cri domeless xhp70. roughly half the output/watt. Alibaba GT-FC40 tested (a 5000K 95CRI 12V domeless XHP70 replacement, supplied by rngwn)
Please include a holster (even if it’s optional at additional cost) that completely covers the light and fits well.
Can you guys design a mini cross bow that can mount to the side camera hole?
it's LED emitter , GT-FC40, 12V, 5000K - 5500K 90CRI
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/58177
the problem is it's 12V.
Ps. I like that the tube looks like it have lots of small fins, does making them deper have any considerable impact on cooling, or on the heat transfer to the hand?
I like the idea of purchased separately optional difuzer in a form of lantern, to screw in place of strike bezel. Or do some threads on outside, so you can screw difuzer directly to the flashlight. So that it can be used outdoor and indoor. And then, with difuze, the tint changing and 6 x 2700K SST-20 and 6 x 4000K SST-20 would make more sense for me. I was waiting for sofirn BLF LT1 lantern version on multi 21700 cells, but that could be end, if this have option to buy separately an additional difuzer.
Im very pleased to see sft40 in this light. What is the depth of reflector used in middle?
Can you send a photo to help me understand?