<< Lume X1: 40W Single-Cell Boost Driver with Anduril2 and UDR >>

I want to see if Wildtrail is interested. What do y’all think about a Lume powered unibody by them?

The machining on my D80v2 is excellent. They ought to be capable of a good unibody construction.

+1 fellas

I have been looking for this driver the whole time I’ve been into flashlights. I love sublumen modes but I also want enough light to be useful on high/turbo. My Zebralight SC63w is currently my lowest firefly mode. I’d easily pay $200 for a decent 21700 light built on this driver. Please Hank, make it happen!

This driver sounds perfect. :sunglasses:

interested in either light from manufacturer, driver alone, or diy.

do you sell it ?

Thanks everyone for your patience.

Over the past few months I've had a few new projects and commitments and had to step away from BLF for a while and put some projects on hold. Another reason (still ongoing) is the worldwide IC component shortage, which unfortunately hasn't been getting better. This has hit many electronic industries quite hard, and has caused many ICs to be completely out of stock and backordered to 2023 (yes, over a year) or more! In fact, many companies have been doing 'panic buying' and purchasing up whole lots of inventory on both retail and grey markets, making the problem worse.

As a result, it's been challenging to progress with any sort of mass-production of the Lume X1 driver, but be rest assured that I'm still very much working on it. Hopefully with some modifications or some good luck, I'll be able to find some progress on it. Just wanted to give everyone some perspective from my point of view. I hope to be able to develop this into something that will work well and that people can have fun using. :)

Meanwhile, I started to tidy up some of my inventory and I have listed (will continue to add) some items for sale here. It's better than having them collect dust on my shelf, and could help fund some new projects... https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/64524

News for production or selling this beautiful driver?

Thanks for your interest. Unfortunately there is a huge worldwide shortage of electronic parts right now with no clear sight of the end of the tunnel.. just yet. This is making mass production of this driver challenging. Hopefully things will improve in the next half.

Thank you so much. I will waiting
I use lume1 in FW3A and is marvellous!

If you’re still looking for another development host may I suggest the Lumintop EDC18?

Very similar to FW3A but with a side e-switch on a separate daughter board. 23mm driver board and there looks to be about 4mm of space between the top of the driver board and the LED shelf.

Let’s just hope loneoceans and Hank talk about how to convert his whole product series to these drivers when the component shortage ends! : )

I really, really love the mod you did with the KR1! Especially with the custom optic! I know you haven’t made them into general production yet, but how hard would it be to modify a KR1 in GT-FC40 to be a similar build with the Lume X1 driver and the Ledil Olga - in fact the build I’d like is very similar to yours, just 1800k tint of the FC40 and the copper body kr1

Count me in!

Loneoceans doesn’t often come on BLF so I’ll give an answer if that’s ok.

As he described in the first post the driver cavity of the KR1 is very shallow at only 2.6mm, since a 3mm or more is preferable for efficiency and power the driver can’t fit, what Loneoceans did is mill some aluminium away in front of the inductor with a milling machine, but this could be done with a rotary tool (e.g. dremel). A 2mm tall inductor could be used to avoid modifiying the body at the cost of some power (limit to ~2A instead of 2.5A at 12Vout) and a bit of efficiency at full power, I’ve built such low profile KR1 driver but haven’t done proper efficiency measurements yet.

If you’re not aware Emisar Noctigon has just started offering boost drivers with FC40, XHP35 and B35AM, driven at 2A for the first too IIRC, as well a for the KR4 with series LEDs. In order to fit a 3mm inductor (looks to be a 6030 inductor) the driver cavity height has been increased, we could call it a KR1v2, this means the same problem occurs if you want to instal a KR1v2 boost driver in a previously owned KR1v1 .
The main difference between this Noctigon driver and Loneoceans’ driver is the lower dimming range, and well… the fact that it’s available as a spare part right now.

For the Olga optic you just need a 3mm spacer (depends if the optic sits on the MCPCB or aux board, then less thick), and something to center the optic since it’s a bit smaller than the diameter of the reflector cavity, I used some silicone wire insulation to form a centering o-ring at the top of the optic.

Is there a point at which a larger inductor stops providing additional benefits? What’s the ideal inductor size, if a light was being built from scratch around it?

Its not about size… Small inductor - more resistance - lower efficiency- more heat. Inductor value depends on switching frequency. Higher frequency - lower inductance needed.

Where would I be able to find the Olga Optic and spacer?

https://www2.mouser.com/c/?q=ledil%20olga

A copper sheet, a handsaw and some files.