KC1 keychain light is available now

What do you guys think of the e GT-FC40 A4 bin 4500k or C3 bin 4000k?

Has anyone measured the colour output of the sw35 219B Hank is using? I couldn’t find anything other than measurements from a slightly sketchy phone app and I’d like to know how rosy they are.

Not measured but it’s disappoitingly greenish compared to e21a 3500 K

For what it’s worth I can confirm. Appears greenish to the eye o meter.

Did the same compare : yep green a little in lower modes, not far from the sst-20 2700-4000 mix but nothing like the really green xpl-hi 8d .

I am installing A4 in every possible host i can find...

Are these tint comparisons done with the AR coated lens installed?

How can they not be ?

One example could be comparing a reflector and AR lens vs a TIR only setup

I measured my D4v2 219b sw35 (fully assembled with AR coated glass installed)

CCT: 3590K | CRI: 96 | R9: 90 | Duv: 0.001

My KR4 with E21A 3500K is around Duv –0.0026 (also with AR glass installed). I’ll look it up when I get home from work and post TM-30 reports for both.

*Edit
Corrected E21A info

That make sense, only slightly rosy and only slightly greeny .

I have 219c 4500k in my d4v2 and don’t see any green or pink. I find myself wanting warmer CCT and might try for 3500K next time. What I really want is exact duplication of the original Nichia 083. Does anyone know what CCT that had? Maybe purists would complain of a yellow cast, but for me, that light was so beautiful I can never forget it.

I have another light (Fenix BC21R) with USB charging and I find it handy, and I know there are now some 18650s (really about 70mm long) that have their own charge port and can deliver high current, so I’ve been wanting an 18700 tube to accommodate them. That was also to be able to interchange batteries with the Fenix. But now find the Fenix works ok on unprotected flat tops, and the Fenix-branded battery that I have is low current, so the 18700 tube becomes less important in both directions.

I looked at the K1 charge port on the web site but don’t understand how it works. As for rubber seals etc., I guess I’d want to know how the most rugged lights (caving, military etc.) deal with this question. Maybe they also only support external charging.

I’m here mostly from the software side of things so Emisar/Noctilux are the only brand of this style of 18650 pushbutton light that I’m willing to buy right now, because of the relative ease of reflashing. The main thing I hope for in a future version is some kind of computer communication, instead of configuring the light by clicking something 15 times. The new generation AVR’s (t1616 etc.) also are easier to reflash, so maybe the next generation of lights will use them.

The K1 charge port is machined into the threads of the battery tube on the side that screws into the head. You must remove the head of the light to access the port. It’s inboard of the o-ring so it stays sealed when the light is assembled.

Oh I see, nice, the charging electronics are in the tube then. I guess it makes swappable tubes more complicated but for the K1 maybe that doesn’t matter. OTOH it means you could swap a micro-USB tube for a USB-C tube. Nice again.

Dear Germany customers,

Recently, many packages to Germany show the tracking status “No one available to receive the item, the package will be returned to sender”.
Actually, those packages have not passed German customs, and will be returned to UK sorting center, so, they will not be returned
to China. In the mean time, some packages did pass through the German customs and have been delivered to the customers sucessfully, so, we have no idea why those packages were refused by German customs. I think it’s related to the Brexit since all the package to Germany are handled via Royal mail in UK, but it’s only assumption.

Anyway, those packages are on the way back to UK sorting center.

So, our plan is to resend those packages as soon as we find a better shipping method to Germany.
It should take us 2 weeks (till the end of September) to handle this issue, and resend those package.

In the mean time, if you can not wait, you could also request refund for the orders.

Sorry for the inconvenience.

CCT CRI (Ra) R9 Duv
219b sw35 3570K 96 89 0.0012
E21A 3500K 3530K 96 84 –0.0026

219b sw35 TM-30
E21A 3500K TM-30

Thanks Rayoui. Duv is looking significantly better on e21a. Are these using the same frosted optic?

Just my opinion, but in low light and without a daylight ambient reference, about –0.0015 seems actually “neutral.” Duv = 0 light almost always appears greenish still in my experience. +0.0012 is slicing or mixing territory.

Thank you Hank for the update!

The D4v2 with 219b has the narrow spot optic (10622) and the KR4 with E21A has the frosted optic (10623).

These 219b don’t appear too offensively green when I use the light on its own without any other source for comparison. To my eyes, 3500K is a color temp that seems to make slightly greenish tints appear more acceptable for some reason (as opposed to 4000K which seems to accentuate greenish tints). I noticed the E21A also appears to saturate colors a bit more than the 219b.

If you wouldn’t mind, I’d be curious how the 219b responded to the frosted optic. My bet is duv drops by maybe 0.0005. My hypothesis is the back scattered light acts like a very mild recycling collar.