What did you mod today?

Put a guppydrv v2 in my enogear SS light. Finally it has moonlight mode now.

Any details?
I still have a defective one lying around, definitely worth upgrading

Ordered this mountain electronics driver. Just a little bit of filing is needed. No spring, just a brass button.

You will also want a better MCPCB going this route. FET is too much for that tiny alu one.

Sure is. I already had a copper mcpcb with 2700k sst-20 in mine.

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Thanks jon_slider :+1:
I just ordered some HERE
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I have a few cheap zoomies to practice on before modding a Haikelite HT35 :smiling_imp:
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Thanks, very tempting, but the shipping costs are holding me from ordering.

Are you ordering anything from MTN soon?

Maybe we can save some shipping costs by ordering more things together

Making progress in modding my Zebralight SC52w.

A few weeks ago I destroyed the stock driver attempting to remove it for an LED swap. Zebralight no longer has any driver boards available for the SC52w, so they canā€™t fix it. This left me with a nice host with no electronics.

Iā€™m in the process of turning it into a triple. My plan is to use a copper platform to hold the star in position, while the driver floats in the space below the platform. Iā€™ll use the stock switch and it should not be necessary to modify the body of the light.

Steps completed so far:

  • Carclo 10507 optic modified to fit in available space in the head.
  • Noctigon 20mm triple star filed down to fit into available space in head.
  • Copper platform made from sheet copper for star to sit on.
  • Fit-tested copper platform, star, optic, lens and retaining ring.
  • Inserted wire and contact for positive contact in battery compartment. This still needs a bit more work.
  • 15mm Mountain Electronics driver flashed with Anduril and tested for function outside the light.

Still to do:

  • Fully insulate the underside of the copper platform with Kapton tape.
  • Connect the wires from the battery compartment to the driver. This is probably the toughest step since space inside is very limited. Hardest part is probably the positive wire from the battery compartment to the driver, and the negative wire from the screw to the driver. Both will be underneath the driver and there isnā€™t much room to lift up the driver.
  • Insulate bottom of star except for contact points with battery tube wires.
  • Connect the switch to the driver. One of the switch contacts will be right next to the edge of the driver. I think a solder bridge should work without wire. The other will be only a few mm from the switch contact, so maybe a short jumper wire from the ATiny.
  • Connect the driver to the star. Should be relatively straightforward.
  • Place LEDs on the star. My resupply of LEDs from Kaidomain arrived. Thinking of either 3x SST20 FD2, or maybe 3x XPL HI using 2 high CRI XPL HI and one cool white low-cri XPL HI.

I hope my Arctic Alumina adhesive is still good. I think Iā€™m down to my last tube and they no longer sell the stuff anymore. If itā€™s not good, Iā€™ll probably end up trying UV super-glue and hope itā€™s good enough.

Iā€™m trying to go slow and take my time with this mod. I donā€™t have any spare drivers and the host is irreplaceable.

I recently ordered quite a bit on mountain electronics so I am good for a while. But if I ever order again there, I will let you know.

Finished modding my broken Zebralight SC52w into a triple.

It now features:

  • Anduril driver
  • Carclo 10507 optic
  • Triple 4000K SST-20 95 CRI FD2 bin emitters.
  • Spring bypass in tail.

I quite like it. Itā€™s not much bigger than than an FWAA, but has a great clip, excellent button, and is much throwier due to the larger optic.

Iā€™ve never seen such a mod before, congrats :slight_smile:

Yep congrats, looks like a challenging mod, any pics of the inside ?

Thanks.

I was expecting a difficult mod due to the tiny irregular space in the head for all the new electronics.

However, the mod went surprisingly smoothly and the light worked on the first try. The hardest parts were filing the star and optic down to fit in the cavity and then figuring out the best way to attach the positive and negative wires to the body under the star.

For the positive wire I ended up using the stock contact board. I strung a long piece of 24 gauge wire through the pass-through hole in the shelf, all the way through outside the bottom of the light. I then soldered it to the contact board and added a bit of thermal epoxy around the solder to help insulate it. Then I pulled it back up into position at the top of the battery compartment, cut it off and then soldered it to the board.

For the negative wire I inserted one of the original driver retaining screws, wrapped a short piece of 24 gauge wire to it and soldered it directly to one of the contacts on the bottom of the switch.

When I inserted the driver (15mm Mountain DD driver flashed with Anduril) I used a solder bridge to connect the edge of the driver to the switch with the negative wire. I used a 26 gauge wire to connect the pin on the Atiny to the other switch contact.

I took more pictures and plan to post a build thread later today.

Looking forward to it, Thanks!

Nice save!

Here is a link to my build thread on modding the SC52w

Jetbeam TCR-1 mod to 219b 3000k

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started by reflowing a triple mcpcb
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after reflowing the LEDs I realized the MCPCB is too bigā€¦ will need grinding

meanwhile decided to install a single 219b 3000k
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Very happy with the warm 3000kā€¦ for camping and full dark use, I personally I like 3000k better than 3500k.

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Good choice. My favorite emitter in my favorite light :beer:

thanks! You have very good taste :beer:

Heres whats on the bench for this weekend:

M2r Warrior - install xhp35 HI 4000k

KR1 - install sbt90.2

S2r Baton II - Install either SFT40, CULPM1, or xpl-hi 2850k

D1s - install 7.5a driver (SFT40 already installed)

D1 - Install 7.5a driver (CULPM1 and KR1 reflector already installed)

Wish me Luck! :))